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Reyland centre push issues

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Old 27-07-2018, 05:46 PM
  #1  
c20tbo
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Default Reyland centre push issues

Guys,

anyone got one fitted?

think i have issues with mine, im running a gen reyland kit and one of his clutch master 7 1/4 twin plate clutches, lightened flywheel

ive not had a chance to try it myself but from the description im getting from Mark at M.A.D when coming down the gears to a stop pushing the clutch in is stalling the engine, once in neutral and fired back up with clutch out its fine

not sure if there are any weird noises but id imaging hard to hear due to box

im hoping Mark can fully explain what is happening

cheers Rob

cheers Rob
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Old 27-07-2018, 06:18 PM
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​​​​​​sounds like it is not fully disengaging the clutch
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Old 27-07-2018, 06:58 PM
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costina
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Shorten the rod for the pedal to give more free play.

But the I would guess Mark has already tried that.

keep us posted as I have the components to do a hyd conversion. BUT not Martin's kit cost me Ł225 so far and my time.

Paul
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Old 27-07-2018, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by costina
Shorten the rod for the pedal to give more free play.

But the I would guess Mark has already tried that.

keep us posted as I have the components to do a hyd conversion. BUT not Martin's kit cost me Ł225 so far and my time.

Paul
Paul,

you mean but adjusting the rose joint/thread on the pedal, could be worth a try.

cheers Rob
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Old 28-07-2018, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by c20tbo


Paul,

you mean but adjusting the rose joint/thread on the pedal, could be worth a try.

cheers Rob
Yes. Shorten the joint to give free play as the clutch circuit gets hot fluid expands having free play let's the fluid expand and allows clutch to fully disengage.
Also wrapping the downpipe as it's near the master helps.
Hope this make sense.
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Old 28-07-2018, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by costina
Yes. Shorten the joint to give free play as the clutch circuit gets hot fluid expands having free play let's the fluid expand and allows clutch to fully disengage.
Also wrapping the downpipe as it's near the master helps.
Hope this make sense.

cool, hopefully this is the issue, its only done 2 mapping R/R seshions and a handful of road miles so will have all been a tad hot, and it has got worse, may need a vac bleed also, will give it a going over once i get the car home

cheers for your advice
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Old 28-07-2018, 12:16 PM
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Robert I don’t think you have understood what I have said. The problem is your release bearing dragging your idle speed down by creating to much drag.

Mark
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Old 28-07-2018, 02:45 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Mark Shead
Robert I don’t think you have understood what I have said. The problem is your release bearing dragging your idle speed down by creating to much drag.

Mark
Mark,

ah ok im must have miss understood mate, sometimes not the best line when phoning, anyway if thats the case then strange one ive never heard of that before, why would it do that out of curiosity? (New bearing fitted at time of build unless its slightly off centre some how) or bearing is tight and not spinning freely?

cheers Rob
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Old 28-07-2018, 03:33 PM
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Did the assembly come with shims?

If so did you fit any?
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Old 28-07-2018, 03:54 PM
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I very much doubt that that a clutch bearing could muster the mechanical advantage over an engine that would normally idle fine even if the bearing was seized. Does the engine have idle control via an idle valve or relying on ign? The engine has a lightweight flywheel fitted and if its also got shortish duration cams and high comp that would be the cause?

Edited to ask.. Is the engine stalling in neutral or when the clutch is depressed whilst in gear?? Or both?

Last edited by Martin-Hadland; 28-07-2018 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 28-07-2018, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin-Hadland
I very much doubt that that a clutch bearing could muster the mechanical advantage over an engine that would normally idle fine even if the bearing was seized. Does the engine have idle control via an idle valve or relying on ign? The engine has a lightweight flywheel fitted and if its also got shortish duration cams and high comp that would be the cause?

Edited to ask.. Is the engine stalling in neutral or when the clutch is depressed whilst in gear?? Or both?
Martin,

Engine has a light weight fly, is 8.1 and runs MAD cams, runs oe idle control valve

i think its when depressed in gear engine is staling, when fired back up and in neutral all is fine, hopefully Mark can confirm this as he is the only one who has drove the car
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Old 28-07-2018, 04:55 PM
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That says to me that the slave is clamping too much and binding up hence stalling the engine.

I don't like the use of lightened flywheels as they cause gearbox idle noise and eratic idle due to the mass not smoothing out engine firing.

Hope you can resolve the issues without too much trouble.
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Old 28-07-2018, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by costina
That says to me that the slave is clamping too much and binding up hence stalling the engine.

.
You mean over centering? If that's the case then the hyd clutch would allow gear engagement without full pedal travel being used.
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Old 28-07-2018, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin-Hadland
You mean over centering? If that's the case then the hyd clutch would allow gear engagement without full pedal travel being used.
Yes. But as you know Martin without experiencing the problem yourself and seeing what's happening it's just a best guess.
This is why when doing a hyd conversion you need to fit a pedal stop esp if your using a different master.

What's your thoughts?
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Old 28-07-2018, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by costina
Yes. But as you know Martin without experiencing the problem yourself and seeing what's happening it's just a best guess.
This is why when doing a hyd conversion you need to fit a pedal stop esp if your using a different master.

What's your thoughts?
If the kits components are correctly matched and nothing has caused any differing setup heights or something like then no pedal stop is needed, non of my kits use that.
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Old 28-07-2018, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin-Hadland
If the kits components are correctly matched and nothing has caused any differing setup heights or something like then no pedal stop is needed, non of my kits use that.
my box is a oppliger sequential but this uses the original casing/bell housing etc,

and as ive said, your centre push kit, your 7 1/4 clutch, and a TTV lightened fly which does have a bit of weight compared to some
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Old 28-07-2018, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin-Hadland
I very much doubt that that a clutch bearing could muster the mechanical advantage over an engine that would normally idle fine even if the bearing was seized. Does the engine have idle control via an idle valve or relying on ign? The engine has a lightweight flywheel fitted and if its also got shortish duration cams and high comp that would be the cause?

Edited to ask.. Is the engine stalling in neutral or when the clutch is depressed whilst in gear?? Or both?
when you press the clutch it slows the engine so it’s the bearing getting tight and it’s getting worse as it wasn’t like this at first. Clutch and conversion works fine.it isn’t helped by inlet manifold and light flywheel with this set up. Engine revs and idles fine press the clutch and it lowers the engine speed and add a rev and it wants to stall with clutch in and then try and start it with clutch in and it struggles with turning over the engine. So indicating a hard to spin bearing.

Mark
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Old 29-07-2018, 07:13 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Mark Shead


when you press the clutch it slows the engine so it’s the bearing getting tight and it’s getting worse as it wasn’t like this at first. Clutch and conversion works fine.it isn’t helped by inlet manifold and light flywheel with this set up. Engine revs and idles fine press the clutch and it lowers the engine speed and add a rev and it wants to stall with clutch in and then try and start it with clutch in and it struggles with turning over the engine. So indicating a hard to spin bearing.

Mark
Hi Mark,
I still don't get how a tight bearing can cause this, surely if its causing enough friction to slow an engine then it would just skid against the clutch fingers? There isn't a crank walk issue is there?
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Old 29-07-2018, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Martin-Hadland
Hi Mark,
I still don't get how a tight bearing can cause this, surely if its causing enough friction to slow an engine then it would just skid against the clutch fingers? There isn't a crank walk issue is there?
Martin,

Crank Walk? Surely not its a fresh built engine with only mapping on it

prob best get car home and whip gearbox out , i was hoping just a simple issue so will try adjusting the pedal rose joint and shorten the rod first and vac bleed system
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Old 29-07-2018, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by c20tbo


Martin,

Crank Walk? Surely not its a fresh built engine with only mapping on it

prob best get car home and whip gearbox out , i was hoping just a simple issue so will try adjusting the pedal rose joint and shorten the rod first and vac bleed system
Rob, I'm just thinking of what occurs when the clutch is pressed and possible causes for the engine to stall. Like you say it needs taking apart to find out.
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Old 29-07-2018, 10:00 AM
  #21  
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I would remove starter and fit a DTI on the flywheel and have someone press the clutch that way you can be sure.
Are the TTV flywheels made to the same spec as original just lighter?
These things are sent to try us. But once it's sorted it will be awesome....
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Old 29-07-2018, 10:46 AM
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last engine I saw this on some numpty had fitted a crank thrust the wrong way round
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Old 29-07-2018, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by costina
I would remove starter and fit a DTI on the flywheel and have someone press the clutch that way you can be sure.
Are the TTV flywheels made to the same spec as original just lighter?
These things are sent to try us. But once it's sorted it will be awesome....
DTI?

Yes i believe the TTV is as original just lighter, it wasnt bespoke

Everything on this car has tried me, had nothing but issues to get it mapped correctly with under performing fuel pumps etc etc
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Old 29-07-2018, 10:48 AM
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Dial test indicator.
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Old 29-07-2018, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbosystems
last engine I saw this on some numpty had fitted a crank thrust the wrong way round
Did the crank require machining? Or was it beyond that?
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Old 29-07-2018, 10:56 AM
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To retrieve the crankshaft the thrusts on the crank had to be ground
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Old 29-07-2018, 10:59 AM
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When checking endfloat ensure that you give the front pulley a shove to the rear of the car, set up dti to zero on fly and have someone depress clutch and note the reading.

Unless anybody has a better way?
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Old 29-07-2018, 11:01 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Turbosystems
To retrieve the crankshaft the thrusts on the crank had to be ground
Well let's hope it's not that eh Tony.
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Old 29-07-2018, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by costina
Did the crank require machining? Or was it beyond that?
Crank was St/st and in perfect condition, original crank from engine with very little mileage
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Old 29-07-2018, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbosystems
To retrieve the crankshaft the thrusts on the crank had to be ground
what crank had to be ground? Not this one
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Old 29-07-2018, 11:32 AM
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Rob we was talking about another engine. But if you have massive amount of end float this could be a major issue and causing your stalling.

Please remember we are ALL only guessing at this stage and tbh Mark is the one who has experienced this.
As with anything modified it all needs a final fettle to be perfect.
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Old 29-07-2018, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by costina
Rob we was talking about another engine. But if you have massive amount of end float this could be a major issue and causing your stalling.

Please remember we are ALL only guessing at this stage and tbh Mark is the one who has experienced this.
As with anything modified it all needs a final fettle to be perfect.
im 99.9% sure end float isnt the issue, ok i read it as if my crank 😂 im sure its something simple.
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Old 29-07-2018, 01:20 PM
  #33  
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Crank walk is possible if the thrust bearing drags on the clutch, keeps a slight but continuous pressure on the clutch and crank promoting wear on the thrust face of the crank, I get this problem with the Vauxhall engines I build.
Not saying that is the problem.
Does it all work when the gearbox is in neutral.
The TTV flywheel was not an ultra light weight version, I cannot remember exactly 6-9kg 2wd weight without the clutch

Last edited by steveboyslim; 29-07-2018 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 29-07-2018, 02:18 PM
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What concerns me about the hydraulic centre push conversion is clutch ware and adjustment due to the fact that modern clutch covers have automatic adjusting fingers??

So with that in mind if you have minimal clearance to start with (new plate) once it has worn the fingers press more on the slave. But on these set ups there is a spring inside the slave to keep it in contact?

Or am I talking rubbish?
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Old 29-07-2018, 09:07 PM
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Sounds to me that the bearing is going to far and hitting to clutch plate Venter hence stalling engine
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Old 29-07-2018, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by cossiedave
Sounds to me that the bearing is going to far and hitting to clutch plate Venter hence stalling engine
Dave,

so you think the bearing has gone past the pressure plate fingers? Would that be possible?
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Old 29-07-2018, 09:15 PM
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This is why I said to check for free play and depending on what type of master you are using you might need a clutch pedal stop.

Probably difficult to hear any noise over the box esp at idle due to the lightened flywheel causing gear chatter.

I am sure you will sort it.
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Old 29-07-2018, 09:34 PM
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Ok guys,

much appreciated for the input, stuff like this im a bit clue less, everything was bought hoping fit and forget, i’ll update once car is home and box is out

By sounds of the input there could be a few faultsto check for

i guess i could even try a borescope also
cheers Rob
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Old 30-07-2018, 12:41 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by c20tbo
Ok guys,

much appreciated for the input, stuff like this im a bit clue less, everything was bought hoping fit and forget, i’ll update once car is home and box is out

By sounds of the input there could be a few faultsto check for

i guess i could even try a borescope also
cheers Rob
once you get the car safely on stands it shouldn’t take much more than an hour or so to get the box out so either pay Mark to do it on his ramps or get it back and sort it, I am sure all will become clear (I hope)
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Old 30-07-2018, 03:51 PM
  #40  
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I think I would leave it at Mark's depending on his work load and other customers. As it would be far easier to remove box on the ramp.

Trust me it's a heavy lump to remove on your back.
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