tockwell

Hello,

My mk.3 orion has a black-top ZVH (therefore a CVH water pump) and the larger zetec radiator (that extends further down meaning that the bottom radiator hose connection is further away. I am using this radiator as I have upgraded to an alloy radiator), therefore as I could buy no hose off the shelf, I have resorted to using a hose joiner to extend the hose.

I have tried lipped 32mm hose joiners, and unfortunately if I run the car until the engine fan kicks in, the hose will start leaking (rather dramatically) at the join.

The current hose is made up of (all silicone hoses) a mk.3 escort hose, then a t-piece (from a mk.4 CVH hose, for the thermostat bleed (I have no heater matrix)), then a straight section so that it can go over the alternator.

I am going to try barred hose joiners and Blue RTV high temp sealant next. I am using very good quality Mikalor hose clamps and they are very tight.

I have ordered a zetec engine bottom hose to see if that would be longer and better.

The standard CVH hose is too short with the zetec radiator, and even before I fitted the new radiator would pass too close to the alternator.

Does anybody have any other ideas of how I could prevent this leaking, or any other experience in re this?

It is rather strange that one of the joiners is leaking and the other is not, I have tried changing to different hoses, positions and clamps, and the only constant is the joiner itself. What would be the best type of joiner to use in the situation lipped or barred?

I need a quick dirty solution for next week, and a permanent solution later on (such as a bespoke hose).

Any input is welcomed.

Caddyshack

I would go with bespoke hose.

Demon tweeks do a ribbed joiner that is pretty good.

jonfoc

Speak to roose hoses. They do a bespoke service and they have certain engine conversion hoses on the shelf

zetaboostboy522bhp

Easy option mock pipe or tube to match the hose and take it to a fabrication shop and get it copied in alloy and welded to the rad , standard off the shelf hoses used and no need for custom as that costs a lot more cash in the longer run. A good fab shop should take 2 hours to sort that out
I did this on my zetec turbo using a fiesta turbo pace radiator.

Cheers paul

stevieturbo

Not a damn thing wrong with joining hoses with metal pipe.

Exactly what "mikalor" clamps are you using ?

Often the wrong clamp can cause leaks, as can overtightening them

There is absolutely no need for anything other than normal good quality worm drive style clamps, moderately tight.

big_wasa

And a good clean pipe with a nice retaining bead.

stevieturbo

It's only water, fairly low pressure so no bead is needed. But yes always good practise.

Dubs44

iTrader: (1)

totally agree mate, the mikalor clamps are shite tbh, my mate used them on his boost hoses and they were always blowing off, so we changed them to worm drive clamps and they've been good as gold ever since

stevieturbo

Mikalor do make some good clamps....that doesnt mean to say people choose the correct clamps for the application.

So not necessarily a fault of Mikalor, hence need to know exactly what clamps he is using.

Their big clamps work fine for the likes of exhausts though lol

jonfoc

Stick a Murray constant tension clamp on it but don't over tighten it as has been said

stevieturbo

It's just a water hose, it just needs a cheap shite hose clamp !

Hell, you could even go mental and fit some of those horrible OEM spring type clamps lol....I fucking hate those things !

matthart

You've either got the wrong size hose joiners or your head gasket is gone. My hoses are a homemade mash and they don't leak with normal jubilee style hose clamps, not done up mega tight either.

tockwell

Thanks, seems unlikely to be the head-gasket as it didn't leak before I changed hoses and radiator.

tockwell

Thanks for the responses.

I have obtained some worm style hose clamps and will try again.

tockwell

I hate them too!