Bailes1992

Just after a bit of advice really. Currently stripping back the layers of Waxoyl that's been applied to the Land Rover ready to repair any rust and retreat again.

The majority of the truck is looking really good but the rear crossmember and one of the outriggers has rotten through. It's amazing how a bit of surface rust turns into a load of holes very quickly!




I'm going to fog all the cavities with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 but unsure what to put on the chassis. I don't want to buy anything new and I already have 5 litres of black waxoyl, an unlimited supply of zinc galv/primer spray and red oxide primer, 5 litres of Hammerite No1 Rust Beater and a few tubs of Kurust.

At the moment I'm thinking wire brush all the old waxoyk and dirt off, wipe over with white spirit before 2 coats of Hammerite No1 Rust Beater and 2 coats of waxoyl.

Or... would I be better with using Kurust after cleaning the chassis and using a zinc or red oxide primer before the waxoyl? Or even Kurust followed by the Hammerite Rust Beater?

Adam-M

I'd buy acid etch primer and apply it using a spray gun

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

How does the acid etch primer work??

Adam-M

Apparently eats into the steel, if using a rattle can it's not as good as it sets by evaporation or it would just set solid in the can where as a spray gun is chemical reaction so would last longer.

Ive used zinc primer and in my opinion not in the same league.

ray barker

i worked as a landrover mechanic for couple of years i used to blast them with with used engine oil through a shultz gun every service. drill holes fog it there is a way of not making to much of a mess when doing it and not leaving a mess on your drive. the farmers used say oil is cheaper than iron buh

The Crocodile Hunter

Old engine oil within cavities is great as it runs down into all the joints / welds. Something waxoyl doesn't really do that well.

Fartblood

Acid etch, hand paint black, then Redneck Waxoyl.