During current works on my car one of the bolts holding the stabilizer bar to the chasis unscrew with the thread that is in the chassis leg. What would you do with something like that? There is small hole in the chaissi leg and my mechanic says he can probably put a nut there but it doesn't sound very proffesional to me :-/ What do you think?

 

tis really common for the ARB mount captive nuts to break there weld in the box section. the easy repair is to drop the bolt from the inside (can drop it in from the access holes) and put a nut on the outside. the alternative is to lift the carpet in the footwell and there's lil grill that vents above the captive nut. remove a couple of the slats and you can get a socket on from the top

job done, I've done it both ways numerous times and never a problem

Rob

 

Re tap it to the next size up.simple fix.

 

if its cross threaded i'd see if i can find the original thread using a tap and clean it up, if you try and recut a new larger thread if the nut has broken away already it will when you try and tap it.

 

Sodo I understand right - there is some nut on the other side welded to the chasis rail? Right? And probably just torn the thread in that nut? The thread stayed on the bolt. So probably puting a bolt from the inside and the nut from the outsidde is there easies way. Is there really some holethere from the interior?

 

correct all there is a nut welded to the other side of the box section of the chassis rail, and yes you can gain access from the inside of the car, however you will need to open up the air vents like i said. i dont think they're there specifically for this, just conveniently placed as i think for put them there to promote rust like all of there othe cars

the easiest way is to angle grind the old bolt off if it's caught in the snapped nut and then using some fine ish wire drop the new bolt (want to be longish) down the into the box section and then get the mount on and nut. can use the 2 nut trick to stop the bolt from turning but once the nut is nipped up it shouldnt turn anyway

first time you do it seems fiddly but i've done it a few time and it's a piece of pish

Rob

 

Thanks for info. The thing I was (and still am) most worried is if it will hold strong enough. Wuld you do such thing to rally/track car?

 

yeah, have you seen how thin the box section is anyway. if you're that concerned i wouldnt worry about the bolt make sure it's a nylock tho you put on

if you ran compression struts that were rose jointed you may have additional stesses, however I've not yet seen a requirement for strengthening them around there.

Also just been looking at the motorsport prep book for the 3door and it uses stock location and bolts with compression struts.

only thing i'll say is make sure they're tight and dont come loose mine dont and I think 2 of mine are bolts coming from the inside and she doesnt have a easy life

 

By the way - where is the stabilizer bar on comp-struts equipped cars?

 

they use a adjustable blade style ARB which is mounted forward of the crossmember and has drop links down onto the TCA's

Rob

 

That is complicated :-/



Any pics of the setup?

 

If youre using Compression struts the 909 brackets have a 3rd hole that goes through the chassis to prevent them moving , its also quite common to run a weld along the top and bottom too .

 

Got this on my 3dr, unsure what to do yet.

 

i have pictures but not handy! would need scanning in

I have know people to not run an ARB at with compression stuts and used higher poundage springs at the front. seems to work well 4x4's also suffer from understeer issues if it's too tight at the front

 

No ARB seams sensible setup for gravel not tarmac. On the track very high spring paundage may work but I don't think taht on the rough tarmac road it would. You need some suspension travel.

 

Ryan, bin the mk1 out bound rear ARB and switch the to the mk2 inbound ARB and can easily fit a 24v granny rear or escort cossie 22mm ARB wouldnt need the mounts at the side then! what happened? look like someone has pulled the captive nut through!! on mk1's i've worked on they often shear there! one again you can gain access to the inside of the box section from above get a hole cutter and a nice grommet to cover it up later

 

Not a great pic Ryan , but weld a pair of towers on and use an adjustable one.