lewis100985

Ok so my battery has gone flat a few times in the last week so decided to do a drain test this morning and see if there was any issue before just replacing the battery.
I have only bought the car recently but I would say the battery needs replacing by looking at it!

I have a reading of 160mA with everything connected and all lights off. Doors and glovebox fooled.

I understand this should be about ~20mA; I achieve this by removing Fuse 36. This protects the circuit for 'Electronic Modules, Instrument Cluster'.

Has anybody else had a drain here that could give me some pointers please? I cannot seem to find a wiring diagram anywhere... I disconnected the battery but the reading actually went up to 180mA! Also, when putting the fuse back in, I can here a motor/fan of some kind engaging behind the glovebox. No idea what it is but maybe a common issue?

Thanks in advance!

RichieST

iTrader: (2)

What car?

london_chris

more information needed
what car?
how long is this reading being taken?
how are you measuring the drain and from where?

Caddyshack

ALeo how old is the battery? Anything over 5 years I would replace anyway.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

You probably are testing it straight away, you need to leave it for some time, for the computers to go to 'sleep'.

Martin

lewis100985

Sorry, I thought I had given my car type!

ST170 - 52 plate

How long is the reading taken? I had my meter leads connected for over an hour while I was checking other bits on the car.

Measuring the drain between the Negative battery terminal and the disconnected lead.

No idea on the battery age as I have recently bought the car. Would this effect the reading?

I left it for about half an hour before testing. Would have thought this was enough time to settle?

Thanks!

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

I would try a battery first.

Juan1j

more information needed

RichieST

iTrader: (2)

Did you press the alarm switch on the bonnet lock so the car thinks the bonnet is shut and lock the car and wait for it to go to sleep?

focusv8

The alarm /immobiliser is fused separately, on the back of the glovebox fusebox on a standard MK1 Focus if I remember, may be the same on ST

It won't be the extra 120ma causing a flat battery.

Either your battery is in need of replacement or the alternator.

Get the battery tested first.

lewis100985

Thanks for all the help.

To be honest I had completely forgotten that bonnet switch!! I have linked out every other one...

Are you supposed to lock the car and fool it into thinking it is locked and alarmed? I never done that, I just forced the door switch and waited so the car thought it was closed.

When the battery is connected and engine running, I get just under 14v across the battery terminals. I was under the impression that I should expect 13.7-14.2 with a healthy alternator? Also, after only a short journey (less than 3 miles), I stop the car and turn it off, then back on again about 30seconds later. It starts straight away with no issue. So assumed the alternator was working correctly but battery was not holding the charge overnight?

Caddyshack

Chances are that is the original battery, I would swap it out so you know you are starting with a good battery. It might have. A date on it. You can almost bet that a battery will die as soon as then weather gets cold nod let you down when you really don't need it.

lewis100985

Could that cause the high reading on the drain test then?

It is a Bosch battery so has been replaced, but only S3 Type 063. Seems that Type 075 is the one I need?

I will try and buy a replacement tomorrow!

RichieST

iTrader: (2)

Undo the wiring multiplug plug on the alternator and check the condition of the pins. Not unusual for them to corrode and break off. I believe there is a repair kit available from ford to rectify this.

Yes for it to go to sleep, close all doors and push down the pin on the bonnet catch, or undo the wiring plug and bridge out the 2 pins. Lock the car and leave it half an hour or so. If something is still open the indicators will not flash when you attempt to double lock it.

focusv8

Don't just buy a new one, go somewhere that can test the old one first.
Halfords for example.

lewis100985

That's great, thanks. So basically redo the same test tomorrow but make sure the bonnet pin is forced down.

Is that likely to have given me the high reading?

I have the battery trickle charging in the garage tonight so I will do the test with a fully charged battery too.

I actually went to Halfords today, could've took the bloody thing with me!!

gcfcos

Please don't go to Halfords, I've been fixing there "repairs" for years. just go to a normal garage and ask for a battery load test and they'll connect their load tester onto your battery and it'll tell them if it's good or bad within seconds.

lewis100985

Is this something most garages will be able to do?

Can't say it's something I've ever had to do on a car.

gcfcos

Yes mate I've been a mechanic for 21 years and I'll test at least one battery and charging system a week minimum, a lot more in the winter

Caddyshack

Lol, yeah get a spotty teenager at Halfords to check it.

lewis100985

Cool, thanks.

I'll have a ring around tomorrow and see if there is anywhere open (other than Halfords!!) that can test it for me.

I will check the alternator lead connections as well.

Busy day tomorrow with a fuel pump replacement and coolant leak fix as well!

Gazzonator

iTrader: (9)

Have you got any breakdown cover (AA, RAC etc)?

If so why not give them a call? They'll test the battery, current drain, charging system and should have a battery on board should you need it.

The weather has turned a little bit colder now so I'm starting to replace a few more batteries now. Just because the car starts after a short drive, don't assume the battery is ok.

And yeah I wouldn't go to Halfords either!

lewis100985

I did actually look at joining the RAC yesterday as the annual membership was about the same as a new battery. If I join can I call them out straight away though?? I suppose it would be worth it to get 'home start' and the battery cover. I can then wait at home watching the football until they come round!

I am not assuming the battery is ok, I am assuming the alternator is ok because the battery seems better after a short drive. If it struggles/doesn't start after being parked overnight, I would assume either the battery is nackered or I have a parasitic drain...

stevos

My personal opinion would be to change the battery had it so many times on cars over the years and if your getting 14v from the alternator then it's charging fine in my eyes. I had a weird problem on my mazda 3 mps, when I haven't used it for a week and started it up the cruise control light would come on instantly. When I gave it a run it would be OK. Turned out my battery was on its way out even although it started every time. Changed it and never had a problem since.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Personally I wouldn't just change the battery, the draw you have is too much.

Martin

lewis100985

Ok, so after re-testing when all shut switches were fooled and the car was deadlocked for an hour, the reading was flickering between 10-20mA.

Very happy now, the battery was trickle charged for just over 24 hours and only reconnected through my meter. I will feel fine getting a new battery now and knowing there is no parasitic drain.

Thanks for everyone's input!

Now I just need to concentrate on getting the fuel pump replaced and tank reinstalled...