Gob00st

Car: Ford 1.6i sportKA (year 2005) , just passed MOT ok 2 weeks ago.
Symptom: Engine Temperature Warning Light on
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<1>Self and early diagnosis:
1>I thought it could due to low coolant level.
I opened the coolant reservoir cap after car cooled down. The level did seem very low bcos I couldn't see much there. Then I topped up coolant bought from Halfords then start driving again, temperature warning light soon came on after about 10-15 min in city driving.

2>I thought it might be a coolant leaking.
Because the other day I did saw a little dripping under the car when I was parking the car but I didn't see any leaking while driving even if I paid particular attention while driving slowly.
And this has sorted of been confirmed by further checking: after car cool down, I checked the coolant level, it remains relatively unchanged(checked this every day in the morning for the past few days, same), almost full at coolant reservoir, so the overheating shouldn't be due to leaking based on my limited experience.
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<2>Further observation:
Also I noticed, when the Temperature warning light came on, if I turned the cabin heating to full with fan to maximum, the warning light will be off after about 2 minutes.
For experiment, if I turn off the cabin heating, the warning light comes back on again soon, so this mean the heater core is fine. And I repeated this experiment a few times, always be able to get the temperature warning light on and off at will by controlling the cabin heating.
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<3>Initial tentative conclusion:
So at the moment I suspect it could be the thermostat broken at the blocked status so the coolant cannot go to radiator for the bigger cycle.

Or could it be the seemingly common heater control valve(HCV), rumor it's the common ford overheating pitfall reason? Though personally I don't know how could a faulty HCV affecting the overall heating system and my cabin heating is fine.

But I guess it could also be the radiator cap not keeping a good pressure or broken water pump.
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<4> QUESTIONS:

1>I was trying to compare the up and bottom radiator hose temperature see if I can determine if it's the thermostat broken but I couldn't see clearly the radiator as it's been covered by the a big piece of metal , so I couldnt' even see the radiator cap or the bottom hose, can any one tell me how to remove the metal piece so I can see radiator cap and top/bottom radiator hose clearly ?

2>Is there a easy way to test the radiator fan ? I have heard if I turn on the AC, it would turn on automatically regardless temperature ?

Many Thanks
Russell

3i Jim

does the rad fan cut in?

Gob00st

As of now I guess it was on while overheating bcos I heard a new sound from bonnet.

But I don't knew for sure. I turned the AC on this morning while idle the fan didn't kick in but I think that's expected bcos its cold today. I will try to get the car to overheat next time and then pull over to check and report back.

RichieST

iTrader: (2)

Are the heaters blowing constant hot air? If so that suggests coolant is circulating properly so your water pump should be fine. I would change the thermostat first see if that sorts it, then go for the heater control valve. Use genuine Ford parts as aftermarket parts often give trouble.

Gob00st

Where can I get genuine ford parts ? I am in London.
Cheers ,
Russell

RichieST

iTrader: (2)

Ebay, or any Ford Dealer


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Fo...item53fb97250f

Silver Zetec Turbo

There is a heater controll solenoid on the bulkhead that allows coolant into the heater matrix which can fail and cause overheating and circulation problems . Might be worh a check .

Gob00st

Did more diagnosis today, here is the result.

1>Rad fan definitely cut in but the its blowing COLD air even while the temperature warning light is on.

Should I be expecting hot or at least warm air from the fan ? Or it just too effective so it should be cold air ?

2>Went to a local garage.
<1> They used a computer to read engine code, there was NO code at all.
<2> They also read the coolant temperature , 98 which is a bit above normal (90 they say).
<3>They have checked saying top hose is hot, but they say bottom hose is cold. Isn't this is supposed to be working like this way ? Hot coolant goes into to radiator top and cold coolant goes out from bottom ? Or it should be hot too ?

3>The top radiator hose is quite hot, so does this mean my thermostat is good ??

4>The left hand side radiator, at least the top left corner(where where top hose goes in) is hot (I have touched condenser around it). But the right hand side radiator(top right corner where I can touch) is cold.

Does above extra evidence would conclude: it's my radiator is (partially) clogged ?

And do I normally get a new radiator or unclog it at garage ?
How much would it cost to get new one installed in London ?

Cheers,
Russell

RichieST

iTrader: (2)

If the heaters are cold that suggests no coolant is circulating so I'd be looking at changing the water pump. Radiator is independent of the heater matrix so I doubt it's blocked.

Gob00st

@RichieST. I don't think you have have read my reply carefully. I said Rad fan, meaning radiator fan blowing code air, not Cabin fan.

And from my previous post above, you can see the heater core/matrix works just fine. Hot air in the cabin on/off as free will.

Bailes1992

Pull the top and bottom rad hose off and stick a hose on the top and see if anything comes out the bottom.

To get at the top hose you will have to remove the airbox and possibly the battery.
To remove the bottom hose you will need to pop the bumper off (one screws at the bottom of each wheel are liner and three on the slam panel and it litterly 'pops' off) and remove the horn and the bottom hose is easily accessible.


I bought an aftermarket thermostat housing which cost less than Ł20 from ebay which came with a new coolant temp sensor, new thermostat and a gasket. While the airbox is off it is well worth looking into replacing it as it's an easy job.

Gob00st

Thanks all the help, after replacing thermostat and housing, it's fixed now ！

roger69

Have you checked that the rad fan is coming on and off if it isn't you can check by taking fan plug out of the thermostat housing and inserting a bridging wire across the terminals make sure you have the ing switched on and don't have anything near the fan in case it comes on