Building engine loom for Vipec V88
#1
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Hi guys, I just picked up a ridiculously cheap new and unused Vipec V88 at only £785. It came with a water temp sensor and a 5 bar map sensor. Going on my Saph build w/ EFR7670, Mark Shead billet collector exhaust manifold and my custom MIS ITB intake.
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Now, I will have to build the loom. This requires cutting all the wires to length and getting all the connectors etc. and shrink wrapping the wires (don´t know the proper term in English sorry).
How do you guys build your looms and where to you buy the connectors and shrink wrap? I would like to do it properly so a guide or such would be nice.
Going to run full sequential 8 injector, launch control etc! Proper engine management has been on my wish list for 10 years so finally getting there![](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/roi.gif)
Cheers and happy Christmas!
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Size: 85.4 KB](https://passionford.com/forum/attachments/general-car-related-discussion/42686d1501328455-building-engine-loom-for-vipec-v88-20141223_195528_zps3enrmk5v.jpg)
Now, I will have to build the loom. This requires cutting all the wires to length and getting all the connectors etc. and shrink wrapping the wires (don´t know the proper term in English sorry).
How do you guys build your looms and where to you buy the connectors and shrink wrap? I would like to do it properly so a guide or such would be nice.
Going to run full sequential 8 injector, launch control etc! Proper engine management has been on my wish list for 10 years so finally getting there
![](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/roi.gif)
Cheers and happy Christmas!
Last edited by nixon_2wd; 24-12-2014 at 09:47 AM.
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Agreed, I would send it to Rod, he did a lovely job on my loom.
#6
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I dont have any crimp tools, could you specify whats needed? I would really like to do this myself, picky as I am.. Here in Norway we dont have people dedicated to making looms, and if they did it would be way way overpriced.
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#8
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Most or some you will probably get away with a generic crimper, others might require specific tools.
At least you have the ecu end, as the crimp tool for the round Tyco connector used is quite expensive
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nixon_2wd (25-12-2014)
#10
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Until you have all the connectors you need, you wont know what crimpers you need...therein lies part of the problem
Most or some you will probably get away with a generic crimper, others might require specific tools.
At least you have the ecu end, as the crimp tool for the round Tyco connector used is quite expensive
Most or some you will probably get away with a generic crimper, others might require specific tools.
At least you have the ecu end, as the crimp tool for the round Tyco connector used is quite expensive
I´ve seen connectors on ebay from brandshatchperformance, I´ll send them an email maybe they can sort me the required tools etc.
Are these proper quality ones? Some others recommended?
Last edited by nixon_2wd; 25-12-2014 at 07:47 PM.
#12
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Any connectors I've bought from Brands have been perfectly fine, and very keenly priced.
#13
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Remember that we drive on the other side here in Norway hence LHD car, so your usual RHD measurements all differ :/
I´ll contact them thanks!
I´ll contact them thanks!
Last edited by nixon_2wd; 25-12-2014 at 08:21 PM.
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#16
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These ones I have. They do all different types for different terminals. I've these as they suit the terminals Daf use.
http://www.mactools.co.uk/rate-mac-t...crimping-plier
http://www.mactools.co.uk/rate-mac-t...crimping-plier
Last edited by ajamesc; 25-12-2014 at 08:45 PM.
#17
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These ones I have. They do all different types for different terminals. I've these as they suit the terminals Daf use.
http://www.mactools.co.uk/rate-mac-t...crimping-plier
http://www.mactools.co.uk/rate-mac-t...crimping-plier
ie strain relief and then actual bare wire crimp itself ?
http://www.mactools.co.uk/rate-mac-t...-crimping-tool
This style with interchangable heads would be a good all rounder ( there are much cheaper versions available I'm sure )
And usually their jaws are designed to do both crimps in one action.
You just need to get the correct jaws for what you're working with
eg cheaper version, but sometimes the jaws arent formed that great so dont always produce great results. It's just finding good quality versions is the issue
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Crimpin...item2a49510d8c
These look much better quality, and looks like easy change heads too which is handy.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anvil-Quic...item58b38f48c3
#19
cossie fan (unluckerly)
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That wouldnt do a double crimp at the same time though ? as most terminals need ?
ie strain relief and then actual bare wire crimp itself ?
http://www.mactools.co.uk/rate-mac-t...-crimping-tool
This style with interchangable heads would be a good all rounder ( there are much cheaper versions available I'm sure )
And usually their jaws are designed to do both crimps in one action.
You just need to get the correct jaws for what you're working with
eg cheaper version, but sometimes the jaws arent formed that great so dont always produce great results. It's just finding good quality versions is the issue
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Crimpin...item2a49510d8c
These look much better quality, and looks like easy change heads too which is handy.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anvil-Quic...item58b38f48c3
ie strain relief and then actual bare wire crimp itself ?
http://www.mactools.co.uk/rate-mac-t...-crimping-tool
This style with interchangable heads would be a good all rounder ( there are much cheaper versions available I'm sure )
And usually their jaws are designed to do both crimps in one action.
You just need to get the correct jaws for what you're working with
eg cheaper version, but sometimes the jaws arent formed that great so dont always produce great results. It's just finding good quality versions is the issue
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Crimpin...item2a49510d8c
These look much better quality, and looks like easy change heads too which is handy.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anvil-Quic...item58b38f48c3
#20
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#21
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I found this:
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/sq6wiringloom.html
Seems to know what hes doing but looks quite expensive lol. All Deutsch Autosport connectors and Raychem DR25.
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/sq6wiringloom.html
Seems to know what hes doing but looks quite expensive lol. All Deutsch Autosport connectors and Raychem DR25.
#23
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Rywire make loads of stuff and could make anything you need
http://www.rywire.com/mil-spec-engin...ses-s/1820.htm
http://www.rywire.com/mil-spec-engin...ses-s/1820.htm
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I dont say theyre not worth it, just too much money.
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I don't have any pics of my loom and don't know the cost as it was part of the whole fitting and mapping etc. suffice to say that it was factory perfect or better and all labelled and neat with proper braiding etc.
#28
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I dont mind getting the crimp tools required. It will be nice to have them in case something needs replacing.
Thinking of using Raychem DR25 for the whole loom. Also looking at the idea of making a new passage through the bulk head as the wires on LHD cars come out right behind the downpipe, passes over behind the engine and comes around behind the intake manifold.
As Mark says this makes the engine loom too long.
Cutting the bulk head makes it more like a RHD loom, hence no need to lengthen the existing wires (preventing even more possible complications).
Thinking of using Raychem DR25 for the whole loom. Also looking at the idea of making a new passage through the bulk head as the wires on LHD cars come out right behind the downpipe, passes over behind the engine and comes around behind the intake manifold.
As Mark says this makes the engine loom too long.
Cutting the bulk head makes it more like a RHD loom, hence no need to lengthen the existing wires (preventing even more possible complications).
#29
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Is there not enough wire on the harness you have there to cover most of the loom ? It wouldnt make a lot of sense replacing all that ?
But swapping bulkhead entry away from the downpipe makes sense.
But swapping bulkhead entry away from the downpipe makes sense.
#30
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I think what Mark said was that the wires are not long enough on the Vipec loom to be wired as normal on a LHD car. By making another bulkhead entry I wont have to splice wires.
#31
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At best very tight as the LHD loom is about 800mm longer than a RHD.
All looms are different depending on coils used & the position of sensors also number of injectors.
For me to make a loom factory fit I must measure the car & decide loom route & junction points. Its why I don't make looms for anyone else but Mark Shead. If you have not done one before be a bit wary & always draw a Circuit Diagram. There is only one +12v on each connector on a V88 & you will need at least 20 other +12v in a 8 injector V88 loom & that needs planning same with sensor grounds.
#33
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It's quite complex getting it all to work and not suffer huge voltage drops though, many looms I see on weber all spur from pin 20, so the whole loom is fed from the ECU power and the voltage drop is horrendous, which is why I use split relays and power the ecu seperately, we see next to no voltage drop at all this way.
Also ground points are critical,
There is far more to making a good performing loom then many people think which is why I see so many bad performing ones lol
Also ground points are critical,
There is far more to making a good performing loom then many people think which is why I see so many bad performing ones lol
#34
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It's quite complex getting it all to work and not suffer huge voltage drops though, many looms I see on weber all spur from pin 20, so the whole loom is fed from the ECU power and the voltage drop is horrendous, which is why I use split relays and power the ecu seperately, we see next to no voltage drop at all this way.
Also ground points are critical,
There is far more to making a good performing loom then many people think which is why I see so many bad performing ones lol
Also ground points are critical,
There is far more to making a good performing loom then many people think which is why I see so many bad performing ones lol
What total tosh
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#35
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I thought you used a system to maintain stable voltage Rod?
It's not tosh at all, I spent over a year testing and developing my looms, and have data logged pretty much every point on the loom and know exact how most perform, don't forget I am talking about weber looms.
Engine bays are very dirty places as far as signal noise and RF is concerned and purely the fact that a more modern ecu can deal with it doesn't mean the noise doesn't exsist. Anyone with good electrical knowledge will tell you that.
Splitting the relays like I do on my looms means I only see around 0.2v drop from idle to 8000rpm, on most other even new looms is more like 2.0v and I know that because I data log everyone I map
Other people are also capable of making good products that work rod, not just you
It's not tosh at all, I spent over a year testing and developing my looms, and have data logged pretty much every point on the loom and know exact how most perform, don't forget I am talking about weber looms.
Engine bays are very dirty places as far as signal noise and RF is concerned and purely the fact that a more modern ecu can deal with it doesn't mean the noise doesn't exsist. Anyone with good electrical knowledge will tell you that.
Splitting the relays like I do on my looms means I only see around 0.2v drop from idle to 8000rpm, on most other even new looms is more like 2.0v and I know that because I data log everyone I map
Other people are also capable of making good products that work rod, not just you
Last edited by James @ M Developments.; 30-12-2014 at 09:29 AM.
#38
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Sorry about the delay have not been on over Crimbo.
At best very tight as the LHD loom is about 800mm longer than a RHD.
All looms are different depending on coils used & the position of sensors also number of injectors.
For me to make a loom factory fit I must measure the car & decide loom route & junction points. Its why I don't make looms for anyone else but Mark Shead. If you have not done one before be a bit wary & always draw a Circuit Diagram. There is only one +12v on each connector on a V88 & you will need at least 20 other +12v in a 8 injector V88 loom & that needs planning same with sensor grounds.
At best very tight as the LHD loom is about 800mm longer than a RHD.
All looms are different depending on coils used & the position of sensors also number of injectors.
For me to make a loom factory fit I must measure the car & decide loom route & junction points. Its why I don't make looms for anyone else but Mark Shead. If you have not done one before be a bit wary & always draw a Circuit Diagram. There is only one +12v on each connector on a V88 & you will need at least 20 other +12v in a 8 injector V88 loom & that needs planning same with sensor grounds.
Would you guys favor individual coils over a coilpack? Which coils are recommended?
The plan is to run 8 sequential injectors.