nixon_2wd

Hi guys, I just picked up a ridiculously cheap new and unused Vipec V88 at only £785. It came with a water temp sensor and a 5 bar map sensor. Going on my Saph build w/ EFR7670, Mark Shead billet collector exhaust manifold and my custom MIS ITB intake.



Now, I will have to build the loom. This requires cutting all the wires to length and getting all the connectors etc. and shrink wrapping the wires (don´t know the proper term in English sorry).

How do you guys build your looms and where to you buy the connectors and shrink wrap? I would like to do it properly so a guide or such would be nice.

Going to run full sequential 8 injector, launch control etc! Proper engine management has been on my wish list for 10 years so finally getting there

Cheers and happy Christmas!

opposite lock

iTrader: (3)

Bargain there . Rod seems to know lots about wiring this type or a bespoke loom builder etc maybe helpful.

JamesH

iTrader: (21)

Let Rod do it

Caddyshack

Agreed, I would send it to Rod, he did a lovely job on my loom.

stevieturbo

If you dont have all the crimp tools and gear...it really is best to get someone else to do it.

Plus you need some patience.

nixon_2wd

I dont have any crimp tools, could you specify whats needed? I would really like to do this myself, picky as I am.. Here in Norway we dont have people dedicated to making looms, and if they did it would be way way overpriced.

Caddyshack

Post to Rod...job done

stevieturbo

Until you have all the connectors you need, you wont know what crimpers you need...therein lies part of the problem

Most or some you will probably get away with a generic crimper, others might require specific tools.

At least you have the ecu end, as the crimp tool for the round Tyco connector used is quite expensive

nixon_2wd

What price did Rod ask, Caddyshack? Got any pics of yours?

nixon_2wd

Thanks, I will have to look into this.

I´ve seen connectors on ebay from brandshatchperformance, I´ll send them an email maybe they can sort me the required tools etc.
Are these proper quality ones? Some others recommended?

JamesH

iTrader: (21)

CW Looms are worth an ask too

stevieturbo

Any connectors I've bought from Brands have been perfectly fine, and very keenly priced.

nixon_2wd

Remember that we drive on the other side here in Norway hence LHD car, so your usual RHD measurements all differ :/

I´ll contact them thanks!

ajamesc

I've a really good set of terminal crimping plier from Mac tools if you end up buying a set there worth a look

nixon_2wd

Thanks, do you have a url?

ajamesc

These ones I have. They do all different types for different terminals. I've these as they suit the terminals Daf use.

http://www.mactools.co.uk/rate-mac-t...crimping-plier

Mark Shead

I have done a couple of left hand drive cars and the loom you have will need extending as some of the wires are to short.

Mark

stevieturbo

That wouldnt do a double crimp at the same time though ? as most terminals need ?

ie strain relief and then actual bare wire crimp itself ?

http://www.mactools.co.uk/rate-mac-t...-crimping-tool

This style with interchangable heads would be a good all rounder ( there are much cheaper versions available I'm sure )
And usually their jaws are designed to do both crimps in one action.

You just need to get the correct jaws for what you're working with

eg cheaper version, but sometimes the jaws arent formed that great so dont always produce great results. It's just finding good quality versions is the issue

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Crimpin...item2a49510d8c

These look much better quality, and looks like easy change heads too which is handy.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anvil-Quic...item58b38f48c3

ajamesc

Its each too there own I guess I've used mine 100,s of time and find them very good you just move them along a little and there's your double crimp.

nixon_2wd

Hi Mark, too short? Really, on a brand new Vipec loom?

Thank you for the info guys.

nixon_2wd

I found this:
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/sq6wiringloom.html

Seems to know what hes doing but looks quite expensive lol. All Deutsch Autosport connectors and Raychem DR25.

stevieturbo

Rywire make loads of stuff and could make anything you need

http://www.rywire.com/mil-spec-engin...ses-s/1820.htm

nixon_2wd

Looks awesome but I dont want to spend that much money on a loom

I dont say theyre not worth it, just too much money.

Mark Shead

We have to route the wires diff on a lhd car so some wires are longer. Rod would have the details on the diff.

Mark

Caddyshack

I don't have any pics of my loom and don't know the cost as it was part of the whole fitting and mapping etc. suffice to say that it was factory perfect or better and all labelled and neat with proper braiding etc.

cossirob

Who is rod? Lol

Focosmitch

iTrader: (1)

Rod tarry..

nixon_2wd

I dont mind getting the crimp tools required. It will be nice to have them in case something needs replacing.

Thinking of using Raychem DR25 for the whole loom. Also looking at the idea of making a new passage through the bulk head as the wires on LHD cars come out right behind the downpipe, passes over behind the engine and comes around behind the intake manifold.

As Mark says this makes the engine loom too long.

Cutting the bulk head makes it more like a RHD loom, hence no need to lengthen the existing wires (preventing even more possible complications).

stevieturbo

Is there not enough wire on the harness you have there to cover most of the loom ? It wouldnt make a lot of sense replacing all that ?

But swapping bulkhead entry away from the downpipe makes sense.

nixon_2wd

I think what Mark said was that the wires are not long enough on the Vipec loom to be wired as normal on a LHD car. By making another bulkhead entry I wont have to splice wires.

Rod-Tarry

Sorry about the delay have not been on over Crimbo.


At best very tight as the LHD loom is about 800mm longer than a RHD.
All looms are different depending on coils used & the position of sensors also number of injectors.
For me to make a loom factory fit I must measure the car & decide loom route & junction points. Its why I don't make looms for anyone else but Mark Shead. If you have not done one before be a bit wary & always draw a Circuit Diagram. There is only one +12v on each connector on a V88 & you will need at least 20 other +12v in a 8 injector V88 loom & that needs planning same with sensor grounds.

stevieturbo

20 x 12v ?

Surely there is only main 12v power ? Ecu always supply grounds, and 12v supply for actuators will come from the vehicle

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

It's quite complex getting it all to work and not suffer huge voltage drops though, many looms I see on weber all spur from pin 20, so the whole loom is fed from the ECU power and the voltage drop is horrendous, which is why I use split relays and power the ecu seperately, we see next to no voltage drop at all this way.
Also ground points are critical,
There is far more to making a good performing loom then many people think which is why I see so many bad performing ones lol

Rod-Tarry

What total tosh . You want to put your theory to the test on mine. Mines all fed from the ECU & went rather well thank you . No Volt drop on mine because it has very little load or are you just talking without the Electronic knowledge to back it up. Ground point is not critical its a single point earth & needs to be good not critical. All other grounds are sensor & not at chassis potential. You may fancy talk the average peep on here but ive 50 years of aircraft looms to back up my facts.

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

I thought you used a system to maintain stable voltage Rod?

It's not tosh at all, I spent over a year testing and developing my looms, and have data logged pretty much every point on the loom and know exact how most perform, don't forget I am talking about weber looms.
Engine bays are very dirty places as far as signal noise and RF is concerned and purely the fact that a more modern ecu can deal with it doesn't mean the noise doesn't exsist. Anyone with good electrical knowledge will tell you that.
Splitting the relays like I do on my looms means I only see around 0.2v drop from idle to 8000rpm, on most other even new looms is more like 2.0v and I know that because I data log everyone I map

Other people are also capable of making good products that work rod, not just you

Bailes1992

Voltage drop has nothing to do with load. More to do with the resistance of the cable the longer it gets.

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

Yes to a point you are right, and overloading cable, and using the wrong size etc

stevieturbo

of course it does.

The higher the load, the less able the conductor, the higher the volt drop from point to point will be.

nixon_2wd

Thank you for that info, Rod. I will make a complete wiring diagram including lengths and colors of the whole loom.

You´re right about that. The loom definitely needs careful planning.

Would you guys favor individual coils over a coilpack? Which coils are recommended?

The plan is to run 8 sequential injectors.

nixon_2wd

Bump! Also, are MAC boost solenoids any good?