Grantcos

Put my car in for its retest today after I thought the stuck iscv had been the cause of my previous fail.
Well I got the results, not good.

Fast idle,
Co -max 0.30 it had 3.54- fail
Lambda 0.97 to 1.03 it had 0.91 - fail
Hc max 200 it had 190 so that was a pass.

Second fast
Co 3.73 -fail
Hc 232 -fail
Lambda -0.90 fail

Idle
Co max 0.5 It had 2.76

Big fail.


So I'm wondering is it just the coolant temp sensor or will it be the cat and or lambda. The later two I expect will need serious surgery to remove, the Cat
has been welded on at one side for a start.
It was given a good blast after adding redex and v power.

I understand that a low lambda reading means too much fuel, so is it maybe the ecu thinking that it is "cold"
It's a 1995 non turbo.

Thank you, ps posted on mr2 forum but 1 reply always find the help on here much better.
Thanks lads!!!

GVK.

I'd try reading the fault codes (if any stored) before throwing parts at it.

Found an online how-to here.

http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-k...ml?kbartid=162

Grantcos

Thanks GVK, I disconnected the battery tonight, to give that a try tomorrow to see what it will store.
It's such a sophisticated diagnostics set up, bridge two ports with a paper clip, hopefully it will reveal something.
Thank you for the link!!!!!

GVK.

Was amusing that their bridging piece has it's own special tool number

I would have checked the codes prior to disconnecting the battery as you may have wiped anything stored. It may take a few drive cycles to log any fresh codes.

Grantcos

The other night I had a heap of things disconnected so it would of been to cock completely, so I will let it "learn" any current codes and bridge it.
Yeah it is, my bridging part has a john menzies part number haha.
Thank you

GVK.

Other stuff to ponder, does it get warm enough? Thermostat issues?

Any air leaks on intake/exhaust.

- http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/forums/41/156750.html

Grantcos

I've read up a lot about the cooling system, one guy had his pass his tests that were high with only a thermostat change. They aren't expensive so think I will change that and the coolant temp sensor and see how I get on from there.
Just not sure if the cat is buggered or not.
As far as I'm aware there is no leaks, but gods knows.
My small turbo escos caused me loads of grieve tried everything eventually found a tiny split in the diaphragm of the standard dump valve on the snail of the t25.

GVK.

Let us know how it goes.

Always nice to see the cure to these threads asking for advice/help.

The Enigma

Try water temperature sensor first as it is pretty cheap. Thermostat as well but can be a pain to get to if the bolts are rounded off. If that doesn't help my money's on lambda sensor from first hand experience.

(current Rev3 turbo owner )

Get on IMOC UK if you aren't already on.

stevieturbo

It has nothing to do with the cat. It's rich as fuck, plain and simple.

Lambda sensor...simple, just test it. You can even get access to voltage readings from the diagnostic plug with a multimeter.
or unplug it and see if it changes the emissions

From memory though, if it's that nasty 2 bolt sensor they used....it aint cheap !

Temp sensor. Unlikely unless you also have some symptoms of this. ie bad starting, poor running etc.

Grantcos

I ordered a coolant temp sensor and thermostat yesterday so think I will get them tomorrow and see what that does, I hope it's not the lambda as yup it's that two bolt design that will not come off in a hurry, the bolts are knackered.
I've not done a test on a lambda before, do you know how, is it voltage or resistance readings? Just from the sensor plug or can I probe the diagnostics socket directly?
Relived its not the cat, bugger is welded on.
Yeah it was difficult to start and idle, the idle control valve was seized but even after that, it will either idle at 1200 or drop way down to 600rpm after a rev. It cut out taking it back from the retest at a junction.
The car ran perfectly before I stopped using it for a couple if months.