James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

Had a customers car that someone took a dislike too, she asked me to try and tidy it up a little for her,
Not normally the sort of thing I take on due to time, but I managed to take it in over a few days between other things

The damage very deep and rusted





Knocked it back to bare metal and feathered the repair area before etch and then priming the area, then blocked it back





Then prepped up and gave it a nice colour coat and hit it with 4 coats of lacquer before a 1200 wet and dry block and machine polish



Not a bad finish from a rattle can!



Mission accomplished

botters

iTrader: (2)

nice job james

MrCapriScort

That looks mint

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

It's not bad, I was able to fade the colour towards the leading edge of the front door as the damage was quite far back so there is hardly any colour difference there,
The rear door had damage right to the edge so I wasn't able to do this on that door, the customer didn't want the expense of blending into the quarter but luckily the paint was a very good match so it came out well in the end.

gjh

Very good job! Its surprising how good a result you can get with a rattle can with good prep work and some care taken.

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

Indeed, it's all in the prep, the single k paint is very unforgiving and will show any prep imperfections! I'd love to be using 2k again lol

Beau-s1

Love to see what it looks like in 6 months time.

The Underdog

i did a repair on my silver focus rear quarter and was over the moon with the results. but then i spilt some petrol on it at the track and the laquer was ruined. gutted but think rattle can laquer is crap. any tips or suggestions on best laquer to use to prevent this?

great job by the way

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

Will look fine, I've done quite a few including a load on stus M5,well over a year ago, looks no different to the day I did it, as long as the prep is good so you get no shrinkage it will be just fine

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

You do get what you pay for in lacquer, I use really good quality cans, no single k will be fuel resistant though

meanxpress

well done,silver and goldish paints are an arse to blend in,people not painting often gets amazed when they look into a can of silver and they see the black circles as you stir around in it,so easy to get that faded edges,so well done :tup:

Beau-s1

Yes you are right, you do get what you pay for, looks like a nice job you done there. Did that take much polishing? Have just seen soooooo many aerosol craze up or fade after time, and like someone has just said if you use a 1k lacquer then hard chemicals can ruin it.

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

Yeah silver is one of the worst!

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

No not really, the finish was pretty good,I always put it on a little drier from a can then I would from a gun,
I have always blocked and polished anything I've done just to de nib and cut any orange peel off so its dead flat.

I ran my own body shop for years but got fed up with it, now I kind of miss it

slammedorion

Belting job from a can , I did a mate's 306 estate a while back, rear bumper and tailgate...
The flat and polish really helps...
I always find the clear rattle cans never have wide enough coverage for a big panel...
It's do-able but now I'm using my guns and compressor, it's hard to go back to cans...
Also did a 206 rear bumper and front grill in cans which was spot on... As you said its the prep that makes the difference...

The Underdog

if i flat it back with 1500 or 2000 then use a 2k would that be ok? iv seen some cans on ebay in 2k. my local paint shop said they couldnt get 2k at the time in rattle so thats why i didnt use it but never knew that petrol would ruin it

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

Yeah the coverage is harder to get from a can, the ones I used were pretty good though tbh, wouldn't fancy doing a bonnet though lol

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

You'd be best re prepping and flash a new base cost over it first, you need it to be nice and stable and not have to much paint thickness,
Make sure you use an air fed with 2k aswell!

The Underdog

so you mean air compresser and proper guns? what about the 2k cans? are they no good

thanks for replies and sorry for thread hi jack

James @ M Developments.

iTrader: (2)

I've never tried the 2k cans,
you need to use an air fed mask really with 2k due to the iisocyanate used.

The Underdog

ah ok i see. thanks for that

meanxpress

any proper dealer that offers cans and mixes the paint for you can do it in 2k,they mix it with hardener before pressing the botttles,the bottle life is around 4-7 days depending on temp in shop or so,nothing for full fender jobs but i use it for repairing fenderflares and stuff for solid paint cars and when doing small stuff like calipers and shocks and stuff it can be alot easier than doing it with gun and the hassle of cleaning (metallic is allways 1K to be clear,pun intended ) the ratio for most common paints are 2:1:0,15% ,2parts paint,1 part hardener and 0.15% solvent,and most cans out there has that allready in them so shop only needs to make the paint/hardener mix.

meanxpress

and just to add to it,always use mask,even hardened putty gives of iisocyanate fumes when sanded,the dust is bad,fumes are worse,if you lay a cottonball the size of a golfball in your hand and drop a few drops of thinner on it it takes a few mins then you can read it through your breat with a breathaliser so it's not nice stuff

Cosworth Lad

Hi james sorry to be nosy but whats the white saph in for mate?

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Top work James. I wish I could paint cars.