clifford alarms yes or no
#41
Regular Contributor
#42
OCD Victim
With the alarm connected, measure the voltage on day 1 and then 7 days later and see how much it has dropped by.
Then, removing the main 5A and 20A fuses (5A is the main unit and the 20A is the indicators feed), do the same again. If there is more than about 0.5 to 1V difference, then the alarm is draining more than it should, if it is roughly the same, then the car or battery is the problem.
As said previously, I have pretty much all of the Clifford catalogue on my car, including pager and much more and mine has sat for just shy of 2 months before and still started on the remote start.
#43
OCD Victim
I bet that water got into it and managed to freeze it and split the plastic, or it sustained impact damage.
Remember as well, the "siren" on most Cliffords are not actually sirens, they are speakers. The actual "sound" comes from the main unit. You can test this by disconnecting the siren from the alarm unit, undoing the screws holding the unit together and putting a 9V battery onto the siren connections. If it goes off, it is a siren, if it just makes a slight "popping" noise, then it is a speaker.
Insignia ones definitely are speakers. I have even uprated the speaker in one of my old cars, was a little bit "too" loud though
Remember as well, the "siren" on most Cliffords are not actually sirens, they are speakers. The actual "sound" comes from the main unit. You can test this by disconnecting the siren from the alarm unit, undoing the screws holding the unit together and putting a 9V battery onto the siren connections. If it goes off, it is a siren, if it just makes a slight "popping" noise, then it is a speaker.
Insignia ones definitely are speakers. I have even uprated the speaker in one of my old cars, was a little bit "too" loud though
#44
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (1)
If you are leaving the car alone for a long period, try something and let me know how you get on...
With the alarm connected, measure the voltage on day 1 and then 7 days later and see how much it has dropped by.
Then, removing the main 5A and 20A fuses (5A is the main unit and the 20A is the indicators feed), do the same again. If there is more than about 0.5 to 1V difference, then the alarm is draining more than it should, if it is roughly the same, then the car or battery is the problem.
As said previously, I have pretty much all of the Clifford catalogue on my car, including pager and much more and mine has sat for just shy of 2 months before and still started on the remote start.
With the alarm connected, measure the voltage on day 1 and then 7 days later and see how much it has dropped by.
Then, removing the main 5A and 20A fuses (5A is the main unit and the 20A is the indicators feed), do the same again. If there is more than about 0.5 to 1V difference, then the alarm is draining more than it should, if it is roughly the same, then the car or battery is the problem.
As said previously, I have pretty much all of the Clifford catalogue on my car, including pager and much more and mine has sat for just shy of 2 months before and still started on the remote start.
I can't see if being anything else, it only has a basic/old stereo in it, which I have measured the checked the installation of before and checked the draw before and found to be fine, and no it's not the classical boot light
Thanks for your comments, I will keep you updated.
Incidentally, in it's armed state it's rated at 200MA in the specs I have read, so clearly it is pretty juicy!
Martin
Last edited by martysmartie; 16-10-2012 at 10:15 PM.
#45
OCD Victim
Tbh, I was going to just remove the fuse next for elimination purposes (which is a pain in itself), although that won't be until the weekend, I will let you know as obviously if it stays charged then it is the problem.
I can't see if being anything else, it only has a basic/old stereo in it, which I have measured the checked the installation of before and checked the draw before and found to be fine, and no it's not the classical boot light
Thanks for your comments, I will keep you updated.
Incidentally, in it's armed state it's rated at 200MA in the specs I have read, so clearly it is pretty juicy!
Martin
I can't see if being anything else, it only has a basic/old stereo in it, which I have measured the checked the installation of before and checked the draw before and found to be fine, and no it's not the classical boot light
Thanks for your comments, I will keep you updated.
Incidentally, in it's armed state it's rated at 200MA in the specs I have read, so clearly it is pretty juicy!
Martin
#47
OCD Victim
#48
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (1)
I guess this may be related to the LED activity? (I am aware the pulse rate slows down, after, say 48 hours), but at the moment due to the fluctuation I am putting this down to the drain.
Martin
#49
OCD Victim
Had a brief look at this today, it draws 40 MA in "Valet mode", but when out of it, the draw fluctuates continuously between 20MA and 40MA?
I guess this may be related to the LED activity? (I am aware the pulse rate slows down, after, say 48 hours), but at the moment due to the fluctuation I am putting this down to the drain.
Martin
I guess this may be related to the LED activity? (I am aware the pulse rate slows down, after, say 48 hours), but at the moment due to the fluctuation I am putting this down to the drain.
Martin
#51
OCD Victim
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post