scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

did it make 630 on an engine dyno then mate ?

what dyno did it make 500 whp on ?

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

the times are crazy on that plot

turnover is a hardened veteran at this drag stuff though
I guess it shows the times are achievable on a perfect pull, I cant see me ever achieving them though lol


you terminaled within 1 mph of my best pull so far which had a bad start and my 30 - 130 was 9.7 so im sure your 3 door is in the 9s aswell mate

stevieturbo

The times arent crazy.

Get some slicks, an automatic gearbox and go to a drag strip and the ET's will start to make sense as well as the terminals.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

your a veteran to though mate with your 9 second Granada

looking at my plots if I could sequential flat shift that would knock a good bit of time off, but then ruin the road car part for me.

i shall just have a go as is first and see if i can beat my 11.9 for now

never gonna beat my 134 mph pb terminal the supra did without somemore power though.

turnover

Who's needs auto Stevie we seem to do ok with the manual box lol,oh and for the record my r34 gtr was 650fw and ran an 11.18 with hard launch and with a crap start 11.5 ,11.6 so if yours is making anywhere near that it should do simular times ,remember though yours is a hub reading which isn't the same as a wheel figure on. Dyno

stevieturbo

An auto would probably knock another 0.5-1s off the times though !

An auto does have a lot of positives, especially for straight line work. I wont be doing one any time soon though

turnover

Deffo makes quicker car in a straight line but not as much fun as the stick,give it another 10 years when you got your pipe and slippers and I bet that granny becomes auto lol

stevieturbo

Prob have rusted away by then !!

Not that fussed on 1/4 stuff at the minute anyway. Going to try a few more hillclimbs this year.

It's wayyy more fun ( and hope I dont crash lol )

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

the times have nothing to do with power and everything to do with the launch and you know that, the terminal proves power and my 130 mph terminal proves without doubt the engine is genuinely making 700 crank hp.


look at the start of my 11.7 run, its worse that a bad launch its a non launch lol
I just used it as a guide as I havnt had a decent full bore launch yet

11.7 129.7 mph





so lets do a comparable meaningful run.

while using my GTECH at pod I tried 12" rollout and then no rollout and to make it accurate within 1 mph and 1 tenth I had to have 12" rollout turned on else my GTECH times were slower than the pod slip.

now with a 12" rollout that consistently ment my start the clock time was always 4-5 mph.
so I will use 3.5 mph as a start point to use a comparable run

what that equades to is an 11 second dead run at 130 mph with a start time of 3.5 mph and exactly 1320 feet total run

Sonic Boom

iTrader: (11)

Are you Stephen Ross by any chance?
If so you were spoken very highly of by my mate David Finlay at Craigantlet Hillcimb.

Rich

turnover

Yes he is Rich not a bad old sort and has a good sensible knowledge

turnover

I'm not saying yours isn't that power,and of corse power is needed for quarter mile,but times won't lie neither as you know you can't expect to run low 11s with 400hp in the skyline barge,power figures don't really interest me it's just a reference point if you add mods to see if they've made a difference and of course if your using the same dyno,but even they change with conditions,but anyway you should be mid 11s or better if it's that power

stevieturbo

With ET's 60fts are everything.

With close on 130mph traps in a 4wd car, that is an easy and consistent 10sec car IMO. And not just 10.9.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

I shant hold my breath but im confident I should smash my 11.9 pb and drive home afterwards, according to my plots by comparison im 0.6 seconds quicker in the 1/4 mile than I was in the supra

the car was apparently a 10 second car in japan and im sure the car is capable again now, but if I am capable or not is another story, maybe I should do a rod and ask someone else to drive it lol

ps rod I am joking mate

turnover

Yeah most cars if there trapping 130mph with a good 60ft will pip in 10s some of the v8 boys do mid 120s and run mid 10s,as Stevie says you got to get it off the line and try not to miss gears ,sort the start out and you'll be fine

Sonic Boom

iTrader: (11)

That's where I let myself down my 60ft's are around the 2.6 mark.
Rich

stevieturbo

rwd manual, on a road type surface with road type tyres. You're talking mid 2s. Even decent tyres will be similar unless the car is very trick.

My best at the likes of Elvington with good tyres is just barely under 2s, but that's rare. It's usually close to 2s.

Santa Pod with good tyres, I'm in the 1.5s range. With some of the drag radials, 1.7s range. Although I suspect the Hoosier drag radials would be lower, just never got to try them at a strip.

The general rule that every 0.1s you shave off your 60ft will drop 0.2s off the ET does work very very well.

At Craigantlet on mine, 64ft Supersoft Kumho's ( start is also uphill ) 60ft was 2.7 and 2.8

Even any of the proper race cars Ive seen, I dont recall any of them getting a 64ft below 2s at any of the local hillclimbs

Now an automatic...I once seen a big AMG Merc at Jurby airfield in the IOM hit a 1.8s 60ft !! Normal road tyres, normal asphalt airfield surface.
They just make launching so soft and easy

Turbosystems

iTrader: (5)

Reminds me of this

Sonic Boom

iTrader: (11)

Best 64ft I ever managed was at Loton Park with 2.47.
Most of the Top 12 BHC cars will pull sub 2 second 64ft along with some of the Sports Libre and 4x4 Mod Pro Cars, even the odd Road Going Production Scobby and Evo (very rare mind)
I've seen with my own eyes Mike Manning in his 4x4 Puma do a 1.78 64ft at Shelsley Walsh.
A 2.0 Seccond 64ft means your pulling exactly 1G off the line incidentally.
Rich

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

lol

stevieturbo

IMO most 4x4's should easily be sub2s every time

60fts at drag events, If the likes of a Subaru on road tyres isnt getting sub 1.9s, they're launching like a pansy
Add decent tyres, and should be down to 1.7s or so wihtout too much trouble.

Add better tyres ( ie soft/drag/slick kind of thing ) and a well setup launch control system...and 1.5's will be doable even on asphalt.

However...most of the hillclimb and sprints. For some reason these 4wd cars seem to struggle to match the times 64ft vs 60ft.
Whether that 4ft makes a difference, the drivers, the tyres, etc etc. I dont know.

But a few friends race the hills and sprints regularly in their Subarus of varying specs, and they just dont 64ft the way I expect they should.
The odd time they'd get a very good one, but not consistently.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

I could consistently 60 ft in the 1.8 area in my r32 gtr on tarmac, and 2.1 area in the supra on tarmac but everytime ive been to pod in both cars ive had terrible wheel hop, bouceing so bad ive had to let off then back on again my mechanics brain will not let me keep my foot in and break it

the one decent run I had in the supra was 11.9 but I slipped the crap out of the clutch off the line and lost loads of time still and then just spun all the way through 2nd gear.


im hopeful the r33 will be better the main problem I have is my gearing now, its like trying to launch in second gear as my first gear is 56mph flat out !

im gonna go out there with my suspension on hard and my 275/30/19 vredesteins and see how I go.

stevieturbo

Sounds like great gearing for a hard launch

5-6k launch rpm and it should go great.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

I did try my launch limiter at 5500 rpm but it bogged badly with the new housing so I'm gonna try 7000 rpm next, ive been flat out with the plant hire stuff due to the weather but once I get time to clean my tarmac I have a practice

stevieturbo

Did you definitely keep the foot nailed ? ( It can be hard to sometimes !! )

What activates and deactivates the launch limiter ?

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

as far as im aware I did I tried to do it without a load of clutch slip and it just bogged

the limiter is set at 8700 rpm in the ecu, I have a dash mounted switch that when I activate it it puts the limiter on my controller switch so its adjustable from 3500 - 7500 rpm, then when the clutch is fully depressed a second switch is activated that puts me back to the 8700 rpm limiter.

it was easy on the small housing at 5000 rpm could make boost easy on the line but now it needs more load to make boost, the other option I have is to fit a valve in the clutch oil line that would reduce flow so I could just sit on the limiter and side step the clutch and it would release a little slower then rather than potentially break something from snatching, and deactivate that by the same method when the clutch pedal is right up.

stevieturbo

If you hold it for a few seconds longer, it might build a little more boost ?

Although sometimes just a set rpm limit isnt just quite enough, and you need to raise the rpm higher than you'd really want.

Ideally you'd want the rpm limit and some timing control to actually let it build boost from a lower launch rpm

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

I was gonna have some ignition launch control but when the launch control was fitted I had the small turbine and it wasn't needed it made boost easy enough.

I may not of held it long enough aswell once my roads clean il do a few pulls and try holding it before I try and launch.

considering ive gained 100 hp the 400 rpm ive lost of spool is hardly noticeable once underload moving but on the line trying to launch it has made it much harder to build boost

but when i get it right it is gonna shift for sure

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

finally got the car out today for a blast and out for diner later.

what ive noticed is the cruise response is so good, I can sit at 2500 - 3000 rpm in 5th and hit the throttle and make 0.25 bar almost 4psi, doesn't sound a lot but it just makes it so driveable

I am sure that is the twin scroll turbine housing doing its job and giving me that little bit along with the bb turbo, when I think of my old t4 yb at 2500 - 3000 rpm in fifth, well lol

I guess the high lift small duration camshafts are helping also.

markk

iTrader: (2)

And the extra cubic capacity

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

I totally agree mate but the gt40 is a 80lb/min turbo and the t4 is what about 55lb/min roughly ?


went out for a Chinese and the missus wernt impressed she said "cant you make it any quieter" lol

but tbf it only has the back box the rest is straight through.

so Ive just ordered one of these


http://www.japspeed.co.uk/nissan-200...ced-decat.html


my downpipe is all 3" bore anyway so this will not give anymore restriction but should help with the 3k rpm cruise drone it has. I got it for Ł79 delivered aswell through gtroc

Fast Guy

I've got one of those on my Gtir and it didn't make much difference to the noise.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

not even under no boost just cruiseing ?

I gotta try it, im sure its got louder since I fitted the bigger turbine housing aswell.

Fast Guy

Do you have any idea what db you're putting out currently? It did knock about 3db off mine, but it didn't sound like much of a reduction to my ears. It was around 85db at idle.
Mine replaced the mongoose cat replacement.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

I don't know what db it is but its fookin loud at 3k rpm, the bit im replaceing is straight through so hopefully will be a bit quieter

I cant run anything that will restrict flow at all as the downpipe and decat is only 3", the rest of the system is 3.5" though.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

well the pas belt has rolled forward again ffs !

I am totally sick of it.







I guess the only option I have is to put a stock new damper on it, it was never an issue up until the stock damper broke in half.

stevieturbo

Is the idler definitely straight under tension ?

Can you locate an idler with sidewalls ?

Or have a sleeve with sidewalls made to press over that existing idler ?

Are the pulleys and PAS pump in alignment ?

4PK....pretty small belt really ?

And how tight are you tensioning it ?

Ribbed belts are usually fairly forgiving though

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

everything is square to within 0.2 mm approx. I spent ages doing it.
the only change I have noticed is the stock damper has deep side flanges that the belt sits in so it cannot move side to side, the ross pulley has nothing at all its just 4 ribs and open sides and I think that's the issue, theres nothing to guide the belt at all except the ribs.

I am so fucked of with it, its bloody stupid.


I tension it so I have about 1/4 to 1/2 a turn on the long side as I did on alternator and air con and they've been fine but they both have side flanges the belt sits in.



the stock damper didn't even have the idler there that I have made and never threw a pas belt once, even with the idler this piece of shit ross damper at 100% true still wont hold a belt on, its a piece of shit and is sdoon gonna be thrown out my barn door !

stevieturbo

I dont know if it's a common issue or not. But I know a local guy with an RB26 in his car was forever having the same problem. When drag racing etc, he just removed the belt.
Not sure what he did when drifting though lol

I guess an extreme fix....fit an electro hydraulic pump from a french piece of shit or something ?

You could try tightening the crap out of it, as it's amazing how much belts do stretch under load and wobble about..

But if you had an alloy or steel sleeve with sidewalls made to press over the top of the idler, that should be a huge help too and shouldnt cost that much really.

If you google "flanged idler pulley" you may find something off the shelf you could use.

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

well ive gone with the tighten the crap out of it method lol

and its held on perfect done some launches, hitting limiter etc all good, but then something didn't quite feel right and its now back to rwd again


to break or not to break is the question in my mind atm........