auto electric peeps
#1
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hmmkmmmmnnnnnnn 04 ford ka duratec
p0203 injector 3 circuit issues
aware of the common water probs to ecu that was my first check, all clean dry etc right pain drilling off the sheer bolt just to unplug the ecu wtf is that all about lol
second call swich injecors between 2 and 3 re read car on driving same fault code same cylinder
so it is aparant i either have injector 3 wiring issues or a bank has gone down in the ecu
hows the easiest way to text this? baring in mind occasionally the car drives fine then it plays up its a intermittant fault at the mo it drives like a sack of shit lol
p0203 injector 3 circuit issues
aware of the common water probs to ecu that was my first check, all clean dry etc right pain drilling off the sheer bolt just to unplug the ecu wtf is that all about lol
second call swich injecors between 2 and 3 re read car on driving same fault code same cylinder
so it is aparant i either have injector 3 wiring issues or a bank has gone down in the ecu
hows the easiest way to text this? baring in mind occasionally the car drives fine then it plays up its a intermittant fault at the mo it drives like a sack of shit lol
#2
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Ok,you'll need a multimeter that has an ohm or continuity tester on it.
Then,pull the plug off injector no3 and test it out to the multiplug at the end of the fuel rail,that way checking the integrity of the wiring to the injector on the ohm/continuity setting.
If that seems ok,put the tester on dc volts and put each probe into the connectors at the end of the offending plug and,with the car running see if there's any voltage getting there,you can even put the tester on ohms across the injector itself to see if you get a reading,there should be something not open circuit or dead short,best thing to do is remove the plug on the one next to it as well and see if the readings tie in,should be roughly the same.
Also,double check that the little spade connectors where the injector plugs in (female) aren't damaged in anyway as that will cause the problem as well.
It's pretty easy to test overall,just needs a bit of patience.
If you can,test the injector loom right back to the ecu to prove that wiring out as well,may need a wiring diagram for that or make a good note of the colours to each injector,the returns should all be the same or the feeds depending if it's earth or live switched,but do t worry too much about that for now.
If the wiring and injector all check out then it's most likely the ecu although in all my time with ka's I've NEVER heard of this problem,or anything ecu related tbh.
The tamperproof screw is to prevent theft as all you need then is the ecu and matching key to steal any ka.
Then,pull the plug off injector no3 and test it out to the multiplug at the end of the fuel rail,that way checking the integrity of the wiring to the injector on the ohm/continuity setting.
If that seems ok,put the tester on dc volts and put each probe into the connectors at the end of the offending plug and,with the car running see if there's any voltage getting there,you can even put the tester on ohms across the injector itself to see if you get a reading,there should be something not open circuit or dead short,best thing to do is remove the plug on the one next to it as well and see if the readings tie in,should be roughly the same.
Also,double check that the little spade connectors where the injector plugs in (female) aren't damaged in anyway as that will cause the problem as well.
It's pretty easy to test overall,just needs a bit of patience.
If you can,test the injector loom right back to the ecu to prove that wiring out as well,may need a wiring diagram for that or make a good note of the colours to each injector,the returns should all be the same or the feeds depending if it's earth or live switched,but do t worry too much about that for now.
If the wiring and injector all check out then it's most likely the ecu although in all my time with ka's I've NEVER heard of this problem,or anything ecu related tbh.
The tamperproof screw is to prevent theft as all you need then is the ecu and matching key to steal any ka.
#3
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
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sorry for the late reply doesnt send me emails to say reply posted, ive been painting the quarters on it not touched the wiring
ohm meter ont he engine injector loom seems ok, engine running getting 12 volt to both pins, ive found the wire that comes from the ecu to injectors, not the 12v relay feed but the other one the switching on i think it is
as its a intermittant fault its hard to find as you can drive it ok for 30 percent of the time then starts farting and holding back ecu light comes on, idles real high or it idles up and down
i need to do a continuity or a load test on the injector wire from ecu. i think then i spose it is ecu related
the thing is theres a ecu i can get for £30 same numbers if i knew which chip inside held the info i could prob preey to the might lord and get my gas soldering iron out and swich the chips, ecu repair seems to be about 150.
ohm meter ont he engine injector loom seems ok, engine running getting 12 volt to both pins, ive found the wire that comes from the ecu to injectors, not the 12v relay feed but the other one the switching on i think it is
as its a intermittant fault its hard to find as you can drive it ok for 30 percent of the time then starts farting and holding back ecu light comes on, idles real high or it idles up and down
i need to do a continuity or a load test on the injector wire from ecu. i think then i spose it is ecu related
the thing is theres a ecu i can get for £30 same numbers if i knew which chip inside held the info i could prob preey to the might lord and get my gas soldering iron out and swich the chips, ecu repair seems to be about 150.
Last edited by rsturbolee; 10-08-2012 at 08:09 PM.
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