Do I need longer studs?
#1
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Do I need longer studs?
I have studs fitted to my car. When I bought them, they sold 60mm long studs to replace standard wheel bolts.
I bought the 80mm studs, as my wheels are a bit lower offset (3mm) and I knew I was going to be fitting a spacer. I fitted a 12mm spacer, so I'm not 15mm further out than standard.
I feel like they are plenty long enough, as they have about 15mm thread into the hub, and 20mm thread into the wheel nut, but 'everyone' comments on how short they look.
Pic below
I bought the 80mm studs, as my wheels are a bit lower offset (3mm) and I knew I was going to be fitting a spacer. I fitted a 12mm spacer, so I'm not 15mm further out than standard.
I feel like they are plenty long enough, as they have about 15mm thread into the hub, and 20mm thread into the wheel nut, but 'everyone' comments on how short they look.
Pic below
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Pretty sure for structural stuff, your meant to have 2.5 times the thread dia sticking through. But not sure how that translates to wheels
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Hi mate - I had the same trouble especially on the rears. I decided to buy 67mm ones and be done with it. It aint a show car, mainly for track and thought that I was risking it by only having a few turns on closed nuts. Bought 67mm x M12. These were £18.00 for 20 (5 stud) and I got second hand alloy Ford open nuts for £12.00. I had the lockers in stock.
The rears aint too bad with what sticks out but the fronts are a little too long but I'm not bothered. Just need to make sure I have a deep enough socket to get em on and off ok as a standard brace wont go near em.
Here are some pics:
The rears aint too bad with what sticks out but the fronts are a little too long but I'm not bothered. Just need to make sure I have a deep enough socket to get em on and off ok as a standard brace wont go near em.
Here are some pics:
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I just wondered because every second person points it out. If they come loose, I'd notice. And they're at no extra risk of breaking, as the shear forces don't act away out there.
The engineer in me says there's nothing to be worried about. Maybe I should just stop listening to people
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#10
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I then used a wheel nut and spacer to draw the new stud into the flange. Access can be a pain if doing it on car with clearance behind flanges to get them in place etc.
I have a press here and a good vice but pulling the studs through was best and on car
BTW - don't tap them - one good hard belt should see you ok per stud.
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