it should still regen itself as long as you dont turn it off once the regen light is on

 

What's the cost for DPF removal and ecu calibration?

Ill be getting mine done but will need to save for when it does fail as I guess removal will be cheaper than replacement on my Mondingo.

If Stu could PM a price or if anyone else has had it done let me know.

 

why dont u regen it carlos?

 

It's not gone so don't need to. But it will do at some point so instead of a regen and for it to happen again I can avoid the cost and have it removed when once it does happen.

Why let something fail twice with twice the cost if you get me.

 

but it will self regen so u wot have to pay for anything?even if u take it to a dealer it going to be around 60-70 to force regen her

 

I thought to get it sorted was a rather large bill and it would happen again?

 

they will keep clogging up if you drive them in town they do need a run now and again, but most people big mistake is to shut them off when the regen light comes on,or they start to panic when the revs start to pick up when its trying to regen its self at a stand still,thats when they really start to feck up and costs lots when the dpf becomes to sooty and cant be regened in my experience with dpf's with vauxhalls anyway

 

That is the problem, as in come home from work at 4 pm, light comes on. Can't go for a run, so have to switch it off.

My nearest run road is j30 of the m25, so can't really leave it on the drive running for 3 hrs until the traffic clears

 

Sometimes regening just dosen't happen. My Uncle drove from South Wales to Yorkshire in 3rd and 4th gear. The car wouldn't regen at all! It was fine on a run, as soon as you did 5 mins in town it would go into limp mode.

 

it should regen itself even if its at a stand still as long as u leave it until its finished

 

What warning will I have? An engine management light a shit running? (or a separate light, honestly don't know) is it a certain light on a Mondeo? No experience with a modern derv.

 

Don't think so, thats only forced regeneration. This is so harsh on a car it fills the car oil full of diesel and seriously stresses things out.

Normal regeneration or passive regeneration happens above 45mph at a decent engine speed (~2000rpm+).

 

problem is even on a run it need to be at a constant speed no accelarating hard slowly down etc like you gerneraly get on motorways etc

 

depends might be a flashing glow plug at least it is on vauxhalls

 

later vauxhall will do it on idle without a forced regen they just dont rev so high

 

Providing the engine speed is high enough, which 4.5 hours at ~3000rpm should be pleanty the DPF will passivley regenerate like it should.
This is where the exhaust naturally gets so hot it cleans itself out. My Mondeo passivley regens as I do mainly motorway miles. Not once has it gone into regen.

Like I said though, if a DPF is really blocked then it will require forced regeneration which usually is a dealer only job.
I saw a Volvo C30 having it done and it sounded brutal, was spitting coal and and sparks out of the exhaust. Once this is done the oil has to be changed.

 

It`s not a light for regenerate it`s self, you will only get the engine light on, and it`s go into limp mode. Then you have to go to a dealer to get it regenerated and update sw, if it`s not have the latest ones.
We do this often at work, on cars that only used to drive shorth trips.

 

Do some systems have a liquid or something it uses for regen? Do Mondeo 2.0 have them? Just don't fancy being hit without warning of a large bill.

 

Yes, Focus have it, but not Mondeo`s.

 

ive done around 300 miles now with de-fap.. and all i can say its like day and night!! car is so responsive and pulls in any gear!! you can here the turbo spining up and down a lovely sound, more responsive, better torque, no lag, WTF did they ever put them on?

Andy

 

im really sorry to dig up and old thread but it seems like this is the thread i need.

I have had my car remapped for 7 years or so from evolution chips. my turbo recently died and in the process took the DPF with it.

Tried a regen and a forced regen, but it wont clear, so looks like needing a new DPF.

I have spent so much money i have no dosh left. I have got a MPPS cable.

I have a mate who says he can map out the DPF, but i want to check it once done.

If i had the money i would take it back to Stu to have them do it as i trust his company..

At the min its in limp mode with the DPF ash accumilation fault code...

Once the DPF is removed how do i clear the DTC code as my OBD2 tool doesnt clear it...

Also do you have to map out the additive part?

Once this is done and out of limp mode im getting rid of the combined CAT and DPF and just putting a CAT back on ...


Can anyone please advise? As i'm buggered getting to work.... which means less money...

 

I think Stu (evolution maps) offers it as part of remap? Ł300 remap and Ł75 for DPF delete + Ł75 for EGR delete IIRC?

Gut it yourself and Ł375 later no issues and +50hp...bargain.

 

as i said

I have spent so much money i have no dosh left, at all!
After the turbo replacement, increased loan and overdraft , im relying on the kindness of others to get my car working again for travelling to work ...

My remap was done 7 years ago, he probably didn't offer that deal then

 

Gut your DPF, run the car round with it like that until you can afford to have it mapped out by Stu.

 

its in limp mode, its going no where ...

 

http://www.bmwland.co.uk/forums/view...p?f=4&t=162924

Post further down: safe to drive with gutted DPF.

 

• Most Most time you have a DPF fault its normally the pressure sensor playing up. Don't forget if you remove the DPF its a MOT fail now.... So you will need to knock out the insides and leave the box there

 

i had a new sensor .....

i want going to remove the combined DPF and CAT, but was going to put a pipe from the non DPF model that has just a CAT on the pipe .... so its just missing the DPF..

 

It's a visual check on the mot. If it left the factory with one fitted then it needs to be there. But the insides can be removed.

 

my local garage said it will be ok at mot time ... as i an get the replacement pipe with cat for about Ł100

i cant afford to get the DPF gutted

 

If you have a mate with a welder do it your self.

Remove DPF, cut a section out (on the side thats not visible by MOT tester), gut it, weld section back in again. Don't forget to take the numbers of the side of the DPF and take the dust/honeycomb to a scrappers, its exotic materials and money back in your pocket.

 

hmmm, i have no mate with a welder