bronze or steel valve guilds
#1
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bronze or steel valve guilds
bronze seem to be about £100 for the set while steel are about £40, is there much of a difference
these r the steel ones http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Coswo...1#ht_944wt_950
these the bronze ones http://www.mattlewismotorsportonline...?productid=208
these r the steel ones http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Coswo...1#ht_944wt_950
these the bronze ones http://www.mattlewismotorsportonline...?productid=208
#4
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Bronze valve guides are better , I had mine turned from a bronze alloy called trojan, they were also setup so the water jacket could cool them further! Hell! I was working in the city at the time and could afford it then! The engine NEVER runs hot not even did a lap of the TT once with no fan and was fine while keeping up with a new 325. in a 18 year old fiesta RST. So if you can afford it go for the beryllium copper bronze otherwise TROJAN. Should you want to work out about converting to water cooled too that is more money again but bloody effective, ford patented a version of this in one of its old formula 1 engines. – ring me and I will put you in touch with the guy that did it for me.
I also recommend HOT honing if you are going that far…. You heat the block up to working temp then hone the bores, this way you know they are right when the engine is up to temp….
I also recommend HOT honing if you are going that far…. You heat the block up to working temp then hone the bores, this way you know they are right when the engine is up to temp….
#6
struggling with reality
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ok, to do this you need the block at at running temp this will depend on your thermostat setting, to do this you have to heat it up by running hot water through it, we took a feed from a central heating system! Then I had some adapters made up so water can be run through the block. Then off you go! It is bloody hard and hot work.
my friends think I am insane - as it was only a CVH but it is my baby!
my friends think I am insane - as it was only a CVH but it is my baby!
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obviously, but how do you get the right clearance? iron and alloy dont expand at the same rate so do you heat the pistons to the same temp as the block then measure them to get your clearance?
#13
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If I remember correctly we asked JE (I had them make some custom ones for me). Then they were sent them off to coventry balancing along with most of the other moving parts in the engine. Dean (my engine builder) managed to get the bores to about 1/2 a thou of an inch to their spec. - I told him he was lucky, he said no just showing off! That bet cost me extra whisky any way!
#14
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ok, to do this you need the block at at running temp this will depend on your thermostat setting, to do this you have to heat it up by running hot water through it, we took a feed from a central heating system! Then I had some adapters made up so water can be run through the block. Then off you go! It is bloody hard and hot work.
my friends think I am insane - as it was only a CVH but it is my baby!
my friends think I am insane - as it was only a CVH but it is my baby!
#15
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Yes we had to! the torque plate was also formed to be the top part of the adapter for water into the engine block for heating it up! our one was made from ally four holes cut in a bit bigger then the pistons then some holes cut for the water to heat the block!
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If I remember correctly we asked JE (I had them make some custom ones for me). Then they were sent them off to coventry balancing along with most of the other moving parts in the engine. Dean (my engine builder) managed to get the bores to about 1/2 a thou of an inch to their spec. - I told him he was lucky, he said no just showing off! That bet cost me extra whisky any way!
#17
struggling with reality
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I will have to ask Dean to be 100% sure. But I think we asked JE for spec at working temp and checked out that the piston rings cold cope when it was cold.
I also should say that I normally start it after heating the sump with a radient heater for 20 to 30 mins so the oil is hot from the off!
I also should say that I normally start it after heating the sump with a radient heater for 20 to 30 mins so the oil is hot from the off!
#19
struggling with reality
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yes, I have.... give me till tomoz and I will dig them out.....
btw I do use it as a road car normally that's what they were meant for not locking away all the time, she need a bit doing at the moment, service, brakes need bleeding and the oil return onthe turbo is leaking a very little so will be busy when I can find the time away from my work, wife and Little one!
btw I do use it as a road car normally that's what they were meant for not locking away all the time, she need a bit doing at the moment, service, brakes need bleeding and the oil return onthe turbo is leaking a very little so will be busy when I can find the time away from my work, wife and Little one!
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