boost adjustment s2 escort
30-12-2011, 02:30 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
boost adjustment s2 escort
is it possible to adjust the actuator in situ on an s2 escort. want around 10psi while i get setup. cheers
30-12-2011, 05:33 AM
#2
Part of the Furniture
yes mate, just take the rod off the turbo and wind it in slightly (make the rod shorter) then connect rod back on turbo secure it on and see what its boosting at
30-12-2011, 09:46 AM
#5
Zee Germans are coming
get your self a death valve thats the easyest way
that way you can lock it off at the 10 poosi and turn it down to 6 poosi when you want to drive very slowley
that way you can lock it off at the 10 poosi and turn it down to 6 poosi when you want to drive very slowley
30-12-2011, 12:15 PM
#7
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Thread Starter
ok, ill leave he actuator. ive got a collins one to go on anyway, was just curious to see if the garret one could be adjust in situ. i have a bleed valve, its this the safest/easiest option to gain a few psi prior to a dyno setup. im not going to winnd her up to 25psi and hope for the best? 10psi will do untill until the dynotime comes. for what is worth i dont ''rag'' it 100% of the time and use v power.
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30-12-2011, 04:28 PM
#10
No one has actually read what the OP has said, his target boost pressure he wants is standard boost pressure, thus REDUCING NOT INCREASING!
Personally just stay off boost, or alternatively disconnecting the amal valve will give you less boost, it's safer than fiddeling with the actuator yourself!
Martin
30-12-2011, 05:14 PM
#11
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It's lengthen as far as I know, shortening will give you more boost.
No one has actually read what the OP has said, his target boost pressure he wants is standard boost pressure, thus REDUCING NOT INCREASING!
Personally just stay off boost, or alternatively disconnecting the amal valve will give you less boost, it's safer than fiddeling with the actuator yourself!
Martin
No one has actually read what the OP has said, his target boost pressure he wants is standard boost pressure, thus REDUCING NOT INCREASING!
Personally just stay off boost, or alternatively disconnecting the amal valve will give you less boost, it's safer than fiddeling with the actuator yourself!
Martin
I've read it right he want to turn it up to 10psi... Which Rs turbo was 7 psi standard... 10psi should see him around 150bhp.
He wants to gain.... So he winds in thus upping the pre-load.
Last edited by Rsmat; 30-12-2011 at 05:17 PM.
(Not that he should do so)
30-12-2011, 07:10 PM
#14
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Thread Starter
ok chaps, ill leave to mr dynoman. its still good to know how it works though, i appreciate the help and guidance. yes i was looking to up the psi to 9/10 but if this is likely to cause problems on what we should assume is std fuelling then ill leave well alone. i thought id heard that 10psi was fairly safe even on std mapping/fuelling. id not bugger about with any doubt there so the responses are handy happy 2012 folks.
30-12-2011, 07:14 PM
#15
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Thread Starter
It's lengthen as far as I know, shortening will give you more boost.
No one has actually read what the OP has said, his target boost pressure he wants is standard boost pressure, thus REDUCING NOT INCREASING!
Personally just stay off boost, or alternatively disconnecting the amal valve will give you less boost, it's safer than fiddeling with the actuator yourself!
Martin
No one has actually read what the OP has said, his target boost pressure he wants is standard boost pressure, thus REDUCING NOT INCREASING!
Personally just stay off boost, or alternatively disconnecting the amal valve will give you less boost, it's safer than fiddeling with the actuator yourself!
Martin
31-12-2011, 10:10 AM
#18
Zee Germans are coming
and anyway is your ecu fitted with an uprated chip
because if you set it up to 10 psi
on cold day the charge air will be denser and could cause the boost to rise and then your ecu will bring in a boost cut and cause the car to cut in and out whitch is a pain
as the ecu is set to cut at 10 psi so you will be on the limit for boost
if that all makes sence
because if you set it up to 10 psi
on cold day the charge air will be denser and could cause the boost to rise and then your ecu will bring in a boost cut and cause the car to cut in and out whitch is a pain
as the ecu is set to cut at 10 psi so you will be on the limit for boost
if that all makes sence
31-12-2011, 12:04 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
yes that makes perfect sense mate. so fuelling aside the std ecu really needs be to accounted for (on the basis its not chipped) ie assume the fuelling is set to cope the boost needs to be 1psi lower to account for disrepensies in air density ect ie weather. because the cold dense air on v.cold days can cause the car to overboost if the boost was set on a mild (less dense)day? so, similar to a two stroke in that respect.
31-12-2011, 02:05 PM
#20
i had my rst ten years + with a bleed valve always use wind it out when late nite racing 
it only had a rebuild once but only due to going in a new shell ,did the same with me uno turbo boooooosssssttttt altho i didnt really car if they went bang 
witch the uno did
it only had a rebuild once but only due to going in a new shell ,did the same with me uno turbo boooooosssssttttt altho i didnt really car if they went bang witch the uno did
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