Vivaro/Trafic error code help
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PassionFord Post Troll
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From: Eltham,South London
Ive got an 06 plate vivaro which I've had for 2 trouble free years.....but the last few days I've had trouble with it starting.
It takes a good 6-7 turns for it to fire up, then it will idle really low for 30 seconds with NO throttle response before the revs pick up & it's fine, then once it's been run for abit it will start no prob.
Plugged it in on a friends diagnostics & it states error code p1635_ob (Glow plug general fault).
I've checked on a few websites & forums and it seems like its a short circuit somewhere.
BUT I'm not convinced because surely if it was shorting out it would do it all the time?
Anyone experienced this because I'm wondering if it simply needs glow plugs?
Thanks.
It takes a good 6-7 turns for it to fire up, then it will idle really low for 30 seconds with NO throttle response before the revs pick up & it's fine, then once it's been run for abit it will start no prob.
Plugged it in on a friends diagnostics & it states error code p1635_ob (Glow plug general fault).
I've checked on a few websites & forums and it seems like its a short circuit somewhere.
BUT I'm not convinced because surely if it was shorting out it would do it all the time?
Anyone experienced this because I'm wondering if it simply needs glow plugs?
Thanks.
Could either be the Glow plug relay or 1 or 2 glowplugs gone.
Disconnect leads on the glowplugs first and check for continuity on each one.
If you don't have a meter or don't understand the above, disconnect each glowplug, connect a wire to +ve on the battery and flash the lead to each terminal on the glowplug, if it sparks it's O.K if it doesn't replace for new.
.
Disconnect leads on the glowplugs first and check for continuity on each one.
If you don't have a meter or don't understand the above, disconnect each glowplug, connect a wire to +ve on the battery and flash the lead to each terminal on the glowplug, if it sparks it's O.K if it doesn't replace for new.
.
You've done well to get 2 years out of it with no problems!!
Glow plugs are not needed to start a vehicle these days and are used as an emissions device to heat up the combustion temperature on cold start/running. They are only useful as a starting device when you are in a cold climate.
You cannot mix and match different makes of glow plugs (I.E. if you have Renault plugs fitted then fit NGK plugs the fault code won't go away). Usually a glow plug fault produces P0380 fault code.
There is a glow plug controller somewhere (I can't remember where they are on Vivaro/Trafics).
Now that I have typed all that out, I'll tell you what I think it is...
On Renaults and Vauxhall vans, they have EGR issues but not usually on the Vivaro/Trafic unless it's got an electric valve. Disconnecting the valve usually cures this for some reason. Replacing the valve doesn't help. With the valve connected, the engine will start and cut out a few times, then when it does start and idle, it won't rev until it's ran for a while. Then it's ok. Disconnecting the valve stops this issue and they start and run and rev straight away. However I do not think you're suffering this issue.
The issue that I think you will be suffering from however is carbonisation of the piston rings. Carbon builds up around the rings and they stick. The engine can be bad to start and then when it does stay running, it'll only idle and won't rev up. The best thing you can do to try and resolve this is use a strong engine flush. We use a flush that is not available to the general public but anything is worth trying. If you can find it, Forte or Sol-X is good stuff. Get the flush and pour it into the engine. Get it running and leave it running for an hour or so. Let the cooling fans kick in a few times and leave the engine idling while you have the flush in. Do not rev the engine. Once this process has been done, drop the oil and filter and replace with new. This usually is enough to break up the carbon and free off the piston rings. Extreme cases need an engine strip down.
Glow plugs are not needed to start a vehicle these days and are used as an emissions device to heat up the combustion temperature on cold start/running. They are only useful as a starting device when you are in a cold climate.
You cannot mix and match different makes of glow plugs (I.E. if you have Renault plugs fitted then fit NGK plugs the fault code won't go away). Usually a glow plug fault produces P0380 fault code.
There is a glow plug controller somewhere (I can't remember where they are on Vivaro/Trafics).
Now that I have typed all that out, I'll tell you what I think it is...
On Renaults and Vauxhall vans, they have EGR issues but not usually on the Vivaro/Trafic unless it's got an electric valve. Disconnecting the valve usually cures this for some reason. Replacing the valve doesn't help. With the valve connected, the engine will start and cut out a few times, then when it does start and idle, it won't rev until it's ran for a while. Then it's ok. Disconnecting the valve stops this issue and they start and run and rev straight away. However I do not think you're suffering this issue.
The issue that I think you will be suffering from however is carbonisation of the piston rings. Carbon builds up around the rings and they stick. The engine can be bad to start and then when it does stay running, it'll only idle and won't rev up. The best thing you can do to try and resolve this is use a strong engine flush. We use a flush that is not available to the general public but anything is worth trying. If you can find it, Forte or Sol-X is good stuff. Get the flush and pour it into the engine. Get it running and leave it running for an hour or so. Let the cooling fans kick in a few times and leave the engine idling while you have the flush in. Do not rev the engine. Once this process has been done, drop the oil and filter and replace with new. This usually is enough to break up the carbon and free off the piston rings. Extreme cases need an engine strip down.
Thermoplunger wiring chafes through where it passes through the inner wing. There is a recall to correct it, and fit a shield to stop it chaffing. Check te wiring....I'm 99% sure you'll find a short there. As soon as the engine has started to warm, it by-passes the circuit.
Matt
Matt
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What i did'nt mention was that over say the last month its taken 3-4 turns for it to start when the engines warm, Normally starts 1st click of the key be it hot or cold.
I changed the EGR valve last week as my revs were staying up when i dipped the clutch to change gear & its been fine.
I tried unplugging the EGR but no joy, Ive also fitted a new Crank Position sensor as they are always going on these.
Going to try the Glow plug relay tomorrow as i have a spare & go from there.
I changed the EGR valve last week as my revs were staying up when i dipped the clutch to change gear & its been fine.
I tried unplugging the EGR but no joy, Ive also fitted a new Crank Position sensor as they are always going on these.
Going to try the Glow plug relay tomorrow as i have a spare & go from there.
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PassionFord Post Troll
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Just fitted new glow plugs & glow plug relay but still nothing.
I sprayed some easy start into the inlet & it started but wouldn't run.
There seems to be pressure to the injectors so now wondering if it may be injector related as that us any of many common faults with these!!??
I sprayed some easy start into the inlet & it started but wouldn't run.
There seems to be pressure to the injectors so now wondering if it may be injector related as that us any of many common faults with these!!??
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As mentioned before, check that thermoplunger wiring.
If you feel you have a fuel issue, they are renowned for injector problems. They suffer water ingress from rear of bonnet which drops moisture on top of injectors. The water then starts to corrode around the top and slightly down the side of the injector...causing it to have too much pressure around it and therefore seizes. The injectors are sometimes impossible to get out, and thousands of pounds went into developing a tool to remove them....which has a 70% success ratio, leaving the 30% needing new engines (cyl heads not available from factory at present)
I say that, but you would deffo have a specific injector fault code if one had failed.
I forgot to mention in my last post that I'm a service advisor at Vauxhall (last 2years) and did 3 years at Renault before that! Haha
Matt
If you feel you have a fuel issue, they are renowned for injector problems. They suffer water ingress from rear of bonnet which drops moisture on top of injectors. The water then starts to corrode around the top and slightly down the side of the injector...causing it to have too much pressure around it and therefore seizes. The injectors are sometimes impossible to get out, and thousands of pounds went into developing a tool to remove them....which has a 70% success ratio, leaving the 30% needing new engines (cyl heads not available from factory at present)
I say that, but you would deffo have a specific injector fault code if one had failed.
I forgot to mention in my last post that I'm a service advisor at Vauxhall (last 2years) and did 3 years at Renault before that! Haha
Matt
we have just done one that wouldnt start at all.we found a broken wire to the fuel rail pressure sensor but it still wouldnt go after that was repaired.
cant buy just the pressure sensor-have to buy the rail,we replaced it and and it ran fine.
the wiring and quality of wire seem to be terrible on these.
cant buy just the pressure sensor-have to buy the rail,we replaced it and and it ran fine.
the wiring and quality of wire seem to be terrible on these.
You could have injector leak back issues. You'll need to perform an injector leak off test.
Do not dismiss the engine flush scenario just because it sounds daft and illogical. I've had this issue 4 times cured by a engine flush now.
Do not dismiss the engine flush scenario just because it sounds daft and illogical. I've had this issue 4 times cured by a engine flush now.
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PassionFord Post Troll
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I think it's the diesel injector pump because it's showing no faults now & being that it's a mechanical pump its one of the only things that would make not run that won't show on diagnostics.
Hope I'm right !!
Hope I'm right !!
Data read should show you the fuel rail pressure, indicating any pump problems.
Matt
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From: Under the bonnet covered in grease
I've had exactly the same issue at work James, i take it yours is the 1.9 not the 2.0, I ended up replacing the air flow metre, egr, glow plugs, both relays, and even the lifter pump in the tank. When it ran it sounded a bit lumpy(very slightly) checked the timing and found the belt had stretched(half a tooth) so replaced the belt and spot on started on the button.........
2 weeks later same issue and it ended up being the common rail
2 weeks later same issue and it ended up being the common rail
I bought this Renault Trafic a while ago now with no problems until when I took the battery ouf to charge I then put it back in and connected all terminals and van wouldn't start so called green flag to the rescue ( huh) yes they got the van started but tge dials and lights on my dashboard are not working now any-1 had same problem ??
Had one with same issues as OP but it was intermittent when it would start idling low and there would be no throttle response at all. 1 minute driving perfect next fuck all, turned out to be split wires going to ECU, metal box had rubbed through them!
Soooo many rumours...
Churtz is correct. There is a buletin from the manufacturer. The first step is to check the ecu calibration is correct. Most are anyway.
Then its almost certain to be injector issue. Doing a leak off test wont always show up a fault. Nor will sending them away to be tested.
Also, on the above comments about fuel rails, they have a mechanical valve in the end of the rails, just a spring and washer, and these weaken and allow the fuel to drain straight back to the tank.
I specialise in these vans, its quite common for us to get other garages sending us their vans to fix as they cant. Most garages seem to replace items willy nilly and still not fix them.
Churtz is correct. There is a buletin from the manufacturer. The first step is to check the ecu calibration is correct. Most are anyway.
Then its almost certain to be injector issue. Doing a leak off test wont always show up a fault. Nor will sending them away to be tested.
Also, on the above comments about fuel rails, they have a mechanical valve in the end of the rails, just a spring and washer, and these weaken and allow the fuel to drain straight back to the tank.
I specialise in these vans, its quite common for us to get other garages sending us their vans to fix as they cant. Most garages seem to replace items willy nilly and still not fix them.
I took the battery out to chage it as I must've left the light on in the back which drained the battery over the weekend once the battery was put back in I tried to start it and a flash came from the live terminal so I decided to get green flag out , they got it started but the dials and lights don't work on the dashboard ? Is this a big job to fix ?
This will come on for several reasons. You need a proper diagnostic code reader to determine why its coming on.
Could be MAF, injectors, low boost pressure,
All these bring on the glowplug light, due to the circuit theyre on
Could be MAF, injectors, low boost pressure,
All these bring on the glowplug light, due to the circuit theyre on





