Hi guys i had put up a post a few months back about an idle problem and have tried disconecting battery over night as people suggested and even got a new idle air control valve fitted but car still hunts and idles up and down but its ok when air con is on and when car is cold. A guy from Devil Developments took a very quick look under the bonnet and said imediatley it was the atmosphereric Bailey dump valve and i should get a re-circulating dump valve and this should sort it. Has any one else had a simular problem and what dump valve should i get and where from? Car has front mount intercooler and a cone filter down near wheel arch and dreamscience map. Also went in to Fords to get screws-clips to fit front undertray the guy wasnt all that helpful and didnt seem to think he could get them and said that they come with undertray which was £350 lol! Any ideas where i can get some fixings for it? Be very grateful if any one can help me. Many thanks Rich

 

Can't see how a dump valve would affect idle when there's no boost! Would be looking at post-cat lambda sensor perhaps if it's ok when warm.

Ref: screws - is it the standard scrivet things (black plastic screw and plug)? If so they're used all over the engine bay so bound to be available seperately somehow. If it's those cheese-head machine screws / bolts then just get some from a fastener company - or farnell are good for most sorts of screws. Clips wise, just bend a 1mm strip of ally and drill/tap a hole through it.

Chris

 

atmo dump valve dont work on the frs due the unmetered air after the maf,put a forge recirc on it and it will cure this
undertray screws can be purchased from graham at carpartsexpress http://www.carpartsexpress.co.uk/
send him an email and he'll get them for you.i got them few months back when doing my rad


have a word with yourself

 

Thanks for the advice matey

 

Thanks mate you said word for word what the guy at Devil developments said i just couldnt remember!! Did you have a simular problem with yours? Thanks for the link for clips and screws matey

 

its just a known issue with the RS's running an atmos dump valve. i would also advise that you look at a pipe on the back of the inlet its got a 1 way valve on it, sometimes these split and can cause similar problems, roose do a replacement pipe as well.

 

as that man said,check the breather on back of inlet and check the blanking plug is still there and not perished.

 

Ta mate, I did replace a hose which I got from Ford, think it was a breather pipe??

 

Think ive already had this done matey, I got a breather pipe from Ford about £27.00 I think? back of engine? Soz im shite with mechanics lol

 

oh the coolent pipes at the back of the engine are also known for bursting so you may want to replace them at some point! well if youve replaced a breather pipe at the back that may be the one we are talking about!! its right down the back of the inlet manifold.

 

the one with the white one way valve in it?sounds about right,roose do a replacement for that mate,the ford ones perish and go soft over time.also
just above the breather theres a white blanking plug goes onto one of the outlets on the inlet,check that that by putting your hand down the back and make sure its not drawing air in.first thing id do is replace the dump valve as even if it isnt that it will still need changing anyway,if you want noise then get a gen 2 with the recirc.

do you have a boost gauge,check the vacuum,tell tale sign of an airleak,should sit around 18-20 in/hg,usually if youve a leak it will drop to 15in/hg or lower

 

Thanks again mate, i think ive had those things checked but will look into it. Does Forge dump valve come with everything i need or is there something else? Just by maf is a blanking plug is this right? Should something go in to that? Thanks for your help with this as i cant wait to put it right!!!

 

heres the dump valve,email them with your spec and theyll tell you which spring you need

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/con...oduct=FMCL007P

your best to get over to the rsoc and frsec site mate and register. youll get all the info you need over there.

heres the back of the inlet and where everything goes,the white blanking plus is under the fuel assy

 

I get the blanking bung issue.... but explain to me how a valve that is shut, and would be shut regardless of whether it's recirc or atmo', at idle would have any bearing on idle characteristics?

 

the valves shut staright from start up but as soon as u start driving the valve is opening and closing and venting to atmo,the maf cant meter this air so it throws a shit load of fuel in then you get the running lumpy and stalling/idling issues,the frs learns it settings but if all its getting is mixed signals from the maf then thats what it learns,to run like shit and use more fuel.i guarantee that if removed the atmo DV fitted a recirc one and done an ecu reset then he'd get better mpg and if the rest of his system has no airleaks etc then it will cure his idling/stalling issues.

as he said here

it fine from cold,basically if he starts up it will be ok,its not until he's moving that it starts acting up,classic atmo dump valve symptoms

 

Thanks Jumbo for all your advice, im going to go with what you said as you seem very sure as to what problem is, i showed your ideas to a friend of mine but he's not sure how it's going to work. When you say reset ECU do you mean diconect battery matey? I so hope i can get this sorted

 

disconnect battery for half hour then reconnect,start car up and let it idle then start loading it up by turning lights,aircon,demister etc on,anything that draws power basically.after 10 mins take it for a good drive,it prob will cut out at junctions until the ecu learns the idle,can be from 50-100 miles before it fully learns itself again.while the batterys disconnected get under it and checked theres no boost leaks/hoses split while you wait for it to reset.
if the problem persists then then id be maybe looking at maf/lambda sensors next,but i reckon you already know the dv is causing idling issues.