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can you areoquip a cossie power steering setup

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Old 04-03-2011, 10:57 PM
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-beefy-
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Default can you areoquip a cossie power steering setup

as title folks , i know they have the two steel tubes from the rack and then hoses to the pump and pump to resivor ,

has anyone converted the full lot to braided hoses and areoquip "an " style fittings ? - sizes ect

are the steel pipe sections nessacary ?

note, this is on the premise of a alloy pas tank




beef
Old 04-03-2011, 11:02 PM
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stevieturbo
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Just make up a fitting for the rack and weld a -6 fitting or two onto it

The bit that goes into the rack is just a stepped tube with an 0-ring. High pressure and low pressure are different sizes though.

Pump is straightforward, just a metric banjo fitting or whatever you want to use.

Only the high pressure pump-rack needs to be of suitably rated high pressure hose.

Earls do a specific range of hose for this, and heavy duty steel fittings.

Although I'm sure people do use the normal Aeroquip style braided stuff. I wouldnt have any of that near my car. I hate braided hose, it really looks crap !

Last edited by stevieturbo; 04-03-2011 at 11:11 PM.
Old 04-03-2011, 11:08 PM
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i dont see why not beefy i would find it unneccesary my self but damn it would look good!
you would have to have some serious high pressure hose tho some racks exceed 1000psi pressure
Old 05-03-2011, 12:21 AM
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not as much for the bling factor , more the hard pipes are damaged on my setup ,

so i was simply going to get two new hoses made up for the rack ,

this would also allow me to relocate the pas tank slightly for a cleaner look in the bay
Old 05-03-2011, 12:35 AM
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i see where your coming from beefy but i would seriously look into the pressures involved i once tried repairing a hard metal ps pipe and failed miserably no matter what material i used allthough i didnt try braided aeroquip, you would have thought with it being aircraft grade someting would be available
Old 05-03-2011, 01:03 AM
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Yes you can mate, the world cars ran quipped power steering and that's with a zf pump which is about 30 bar higher pressure than the standard cossie
Pump which is 90 bar I'm sure,

Mine will be getting quipped but not on the return as I'm using saxo electric pump and the return is a push on hose admit has no pressure behind it and is plastic so I cant quip it
Old 05-03-2011, 01:26 AM
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cushty thanks for the info peeps,

on a sub note ,

has anyone ever complied a list of what sizes to use and where to completley quip a cossie bay ?

i.e what to use on header tanks , breathers ,

enough people have done there whole car out by now lol
Old 05-03-2011, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by -beefy-
cushty thanks for the info peeps,

on a sub note ,

has anyone ever complied a list of what sizes to use and where to completley quip a cossie bay ?

i.e what to use on header tanks , breathers ,

enough people have done there whole car out by now lol
im interested in this also as my breather is quipped and i would like to do my fuel and turbo feed to, im sure i could work it out but its always better to be shown than learn the hard way lol
Old 05-03-2011, 03:51 AM
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I'm sure Daveesccos ( Dave Mullerhan ) had his power steering all aeroquipped!
Old 05-03-2011, 09:27 AM
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hi beefy do you mean like this,i just make up a stainless fiitting that is the same on one end as the original pipes ie o ring etc then on the other -6 male ,this one was on my mk6 cossy fiesta van ,but have done it on both my cossy transits and my pickup before i went electric on pickup ,fiests i used carbon kevlar hose ,all the others braided with no probs at all ,i also put - 6 and -8 fittings on the pump and -6 on tank ,hope this helps

thanks mark
Old 05-03-2011, 09:41 AM
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As much as I like that hose over stainless braided stuff.

Is it actually safe for PAS ? The Earls PAS hose is very heavy duty and rated at 2250psi operating pressure and must be used with specific heavy duty steel fittings. I imagine burst pressure must be some 2-3x that.

Their ProLite ( like the hose you have pictured ) burst pressure is 1400psi, and rated operating pressure of only 350psi.

And dont forget, PAS fluid is extremely flammable
Old 05-03-2011, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
As much as I like that hose over stainless braided stuff.

Is it actually safe for PAS ? The Earls PAS hose is very heavy duty and rated at 2250psi operating pressure and must be used with specific heavy duty steel fittings. I imagine burst pressure must be some 2-3x that.

Their ProLite ( like the hose you have pictured ) burst pressure is 1400psi, and rated operating pressure of only 350psi.

And dont forget, PAS fluid is extremely flammable
hi earls said it wouldnt be a problem ,i had it on one of my transits for a few yrs with wide 18 inch wheels aswell and never had a problem

mark
Old 05-03-2011, 10:25 AM
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lacey
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i have done 4 pas braided hose convertion and they are easy and i also added small oil coolers aswell and one of i put the tank under the wheel arch under the head light to keep the arches clear and they all worked very well. The easyest way is to cut the steel hose back but not to far so you lose the rubber pipe and braze on weld on dash 6 fitting and so on it dont take long
Old 05-03-2011, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by MK MOTORSPORT


hi beefy do you mean like this,i just make up a stainless fiitting that is the same on one end as the original pipes ie o ring etc then on the other -6 male ,this one was on my mk6 cossy fiesta van ,but have done it on both my cossy transits and my pickup before i went electric on pickup ,fiests i used carbon kevlar hose ,all the others braided with no probs at all ,i also put - 6 and -8 fittings on the pump and -6 on tank ,hope this helps

thanks mark


exactly like that mark mate !!!

should of knew you of all people would of done it lol


expect a txt lol

Old 05-03-2011, 11:35 AM
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It's easy. Just make a small adaptor, weld a -6 fitting onto it and make your hoses whatever way you want.

Inlet and outlet adaptors are different sizes where they enter the rack. Although on the low pressure return side I welded a 90deg fitting on for clearance purposes.







Last edited by stevieturbo; 05-03-2011 at 11:37 AM.
Old 05-03-2011, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
It's easy. Just make a small adaptor, weld a -6 fitting onto it and make your hoses whatever way you want.

Inlet and outlet adaptors are different sizes where they enter the rack. Although on the low pressure return side I welded a 90deg fitting on for clearance purposes.







hi steve my way is the easiest ,i just push a button on a cnc machine and go have a cup of tea come back done lol

mark
Old 05-03-2011, 01:11 PM
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You can always do as ford did and tap out the connections.

Old 05-03-2011, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MK MOTORSPORT
hi steve my way is the easiest ,i just push a button on a cnc machine and go have a cup of tea come back done lol

mark
Unfortunately my CNC just broke down lol
Old 05-03-2011, 01:27 PM
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Old 05-03-2011, 03:00 PM
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Yes you could, could also convert to electric ie with corsa motor.
tabetha
Old 05-03-2011, 04:42 PM
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Glad this topic has come up as i have been asking the same questions obviously in the wrong places.

Looking at these only two hoses have been converted and two left. Can you only do the low pressure side ?

I have a Mk1 Focus RS and the pipes that go across the front have corroded so i am wanting to change mine. Its the two lighter coloured ones i was going to tap the hole for fitting. Can anyone advise would be greatly appreciated.






Old 05-03-2011, 06:22 PM
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Unless the entire rack was stripped, I wouldnt be risking tapping it. It wouldnt take much dirt to damage either pump or rack.

if it's just the low pressure pipes that have corroded, and the bits photographed look fine. You can simply join that with suitable rubber oil/fuel hose and hose clamps.
Old 05-03-2011, 06:25 PM
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I did mine from the tank to new pipes I made up so it got rid of the Samco's
Old 06-03-2011, 09:10 AM
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don't forget that the long steel loop is for cooling the fluid. if you use hose instead, it will not get cooled so you should probably fit a cooler somewhere in the circuit.
Old 06-03-2011, 10:13 AM
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So are my two light pipes the low pressure side ? they both go over the gearbox and across the front. Fitting a cooler will be no problem. i just need to get rid off the solid rotten pipes and replace with something more user friendly as with huge front mount these rotten pipes would need a slight bend. If they are the low pressure side could i cut the metal pipes on the straight push the braided hose over a good few inches and use a few clips ?
Old 06-03-2011, 10:15 AM
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One of the pipes goes to the pump so if the pressure is generated in the pump i would assume one is the high side and the tank return low side.
Old 06-03-2011, 09:14 PM
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makes sense. makes sense that a cooler would be needed on the high pressure side though, after the pump where it has been heated and before the rack.
Old 06-03-2011, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by foreigneRS
makes sense. makes sense that a cooler would be needed on the high pressure side though, after the pump where it has been heated and before the rack.
Try finding a cooler that will be safe to around 1000psi.

Do not even consider putting a cooler on the high pressure side. That's suicidal.
Old 07-03-2011, 06:24 AM
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you're right, it would be daft. i wasn't saying that is where you should put one, just that it would make the most sense from a thermal point of view.
Old 07-03-2011, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by foreigneRS
you're right, it would be daft. i wasn't saying that is where you should put one, just that it would make the most sense from a thermal point of view.
Wont really matter either way

Try and cool it before it gets to the rack which is difficult.

or cool the fluid in the reservoir so it isnt hot in the first place
Old 07-03-2011, 07:48 PM
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please can anyone help with my problem,i have a series2 turbo with a airtec rad and recently bought the new pro alloy gen2 intercooler kit.since this has been on my car the cooling temp just rises into the red and boils over.i have checked all the usuall things such as fans going round the right way,coolant flow,thermostat working and even put the old pace back on car and temp was fine.i have just joined this site and not sure what to do or where to go on the pages so any help would be appreciated.
Old 07-03-2011, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by lukewayne
please can anyone help with my problem,i have a series2 turbo with a airtec rad and recently bought the new pro alloy gen2 intercooler kit.since this has been on my car the cooling temp just rises into the red and boils over.i have checked all the usuall things such as fans going round the right way,coolant flow,thermostat working and even put the old pace back on car and temp was fine.i have just joined this site and not sure what to do or where to go on the pages so any help would be appreciated.
Start a new thread with your query, you will get more responses that way.

Without seeing though, hard to tell. Simple question, can air actually get to the water radiator ok ?

And when does it overheat ? idle, driving, fast ?
Old 08-03-2011, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Wont really matter either way

Try and cool it before it gets to the rack which is difficult.

or cool the fluid in the reservoir so it isnt hot in the first place
it's just easier to cool when it's at it's hottest as the delta t to the cooling medium is highest.
Old 08-03-2011, 07:30 AM
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I can see what you're saying. But it will likely be hottest after it has done all its work ?

ie, immediately after the rack. That is where all the compression takes place, inside the rack.

Most of the time, say straight ahead position, virtually no pressure is created so the fluid is simply flowing in and out so cooler placement there probably makes little odds.
Old 08-03-2011, 07:43 AM
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Glad this thread came up as I'll be wanting to do this possibly.

So what turned out to be the best/easiest way?
Old 08-03-2011, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by James90RS
Glad this thread came up as I'll be wanting to do this possibly.

So what turned out to be the best/easiest way?
Buy a CNC machine lol

Or contact MK above.
Old 08-03-2011, 12:40 PM
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Nice one
Old 08-03-2011, 06:03 PM
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I Drilled & Tapped the Rack to use a screw in Aeroquip fitting , you could still buy the pinion seals from Ford when i did it so removed all the gubbins and shoved paper inside to prevent any swarf getting in .
Old 08-03-2011, 06:36 PM
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Could you not weld quip ends onto the steel cooling pipe too, and still use this?
Old 08-03-2011, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by James90RS
Could you not weld quip ends onto the steel cooling pipe too, and still use this?
You could do it on either.

I just decided to get new fittings made up from thicker steel. Stronger and easier to weld.


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