VAG - VNT vanes sticking
#1
VAG - VNT vanes sticking
I know someone on here must have had this before - i'm suffering from it on my PD115 - i presume it must be well and truly caked up as it struggles to rev over a certain level and get's to around 60-70 and goes into limp mode.
Question is what process did you do and what product as i have read that Mr Muscle works but just thought i'd ask some of you.
Question is what process did you do and what product as i have read that Mr Muscle works but just thought i'd ask some of you.
#2
Hi mate i know you can buy a kit which has a additive for the fuel and a spray but unsure who makes it but i think it was in fast ford recently.dose it logg a fault or dose it clear with an ignition cycle and is the fault underboost or overboost?
#3
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i used to work for skoda and had loads of pd lumps overboost, 9 times out of 10it was the turbo, we just replaced them, when it was that the problem occurred when on full load 5th/6th gear, car had plenty of power then just lost its power giving you no turbo, stop the car then restart it was ok till on full load again, you would get an overboost fault code
as for cleaning i did one at home, took turbo off then soak in mr muscle for a couple of days, then put back on it was spot on
as for cleaning i did one at home, took turbo off then soak in mr muscle for a couple of days, then put back on it was spot on
#4
no code shows on the dash i don't think i have that feature but when the engine restarts it resets limp mode and is fine - i only found i had a problem when i went on to the motorway as normal driving the turbo boosts fine but as soon as you get in to 6th and try to put the power down limp mode kicks in.
#5
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we strip and clean the vanes and rebuild these, done loads, its and easy enough job just make sure if you do it everything is nipping clean and you dont lose any bits. we charge Ł150 drive in drive out, so should be around that mark if anyone local to you can do it
#7
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Pretty much all you need here mate, there is a how to guide lower down the page
http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/394072/...5.aspx#2692605
http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/394072/...5.aspx#2692605
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#8
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This is taken from UK MK IV's:
How to cure sticking vanes
If the vanes are sticking, firstly you can try removing the actuator/VNT rod and giving the VNT lever a bloody good wiggle, it's not garanteed to fix the problem but it worked for me years ago! To do this you need to gain access to the turbo either from above or below, remove the 2 X 10mm nuts holding the actuator to the mount, then remove the C-Clip holding the VNT rod onto the VNT lever, and then you can slide the rod off and remove the actuator alltogether. once it's out of the way, give the VNT lever a good wiggle and then re-fit and see it it has cured the problem. if it doesn't work then you could either do a DIY refurb, you could send it away to a company to get it re-furbed, you could try using a boost valve, or you could attempt the Innotec VNT clean.
Whole link is here, its quite technical...
http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/394072/...5.aspx#2692605
EDIT: ha beaten to it, should have refreshed my page before posting!
How to cure sticking vanes
If the vanes are sticking, firstly you can try removing the actuator/VNT rod and giving the VNT lever a bloody good wiggle, it's not garanteed to fix the problem but it worked for me years ago! To do this you need to gain access to the turbo either from above or below, remove the 2 X 10mm nuts holding the actuator to the mount, then remove the C-Clip holding the VNT rod onto the VNT lever, and then you can slide the rod off and remove the actuator alltogether. once it's out of the way, give the VNT lever a good wiggle and then re-fit and see it it has cured the problem. if it doesn't work then you could either do a DIY refurb, you could send it away to a company to get it re-furbed, you could try using a boost valve, or you could attempt the Innotec VNT clean.
Whole link is here, its quite technical...
http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/394072/...5.aspx#2692605
EDIT: ha beaten to it, should have refreshed my page before posting!
Last edited by capriturbo; 15-01-2011 at 02:34 PM.
#9
Pretty much all you need here mate, there is a how to guide lower down the page
http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/394072/...5.aspx#2692605
http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/394072/...5.aspx#2692605
Originally Posted by taken from an Audi forum
Un-Sticking Your TDi VNT Turbo Vanes.....
If like me, your car has suffered the inevitable sticking VNT mechanism in the turbo, here is how I fixed mine.....
DO THIS ON A COLD ENGINE ONLY!
Needed:
12mm socket and small extension
M6 hex key (allen key)
Metal tube for leverage on allen key (helps but not absolutely necessary)
Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner Foam Spray, Ł2.55 from Asda.
Remove the EGR pipe (2 nuts and 2 socket head screws, tight, use a metal tube slipped over an allen key and crack them off, top ones are the allens, and soak the nuts with penetrant first like wd40 or lusol or something. (I put new M8 nuts and star washers back on as the originals are rusty old tat now)
Get a length of 3mm ID vac tubing, silicon etc or anything you can find, feed the tube into the egr hole in the exhaust manifold, but using a torch, get it to turn down into the hole to the exhaust turbine and push till it goes almost right in (oer misssus ) It MUST go DOWN the hole, not in and left or right, but DOWN, this is important!!! Make sure the tubing has dropped down the cast hole that leads to the exhaust turbine, its not hard but needs care to get it in properly, once its in, it shoves right in quite easy and silicon tube cant damage anything in there.
Take a tin of Mr Muscle oven cleaner (sodium hydroxide, DONT get any on you anywhere, it burns like a BITCH. Seriously, its safe enough to do this but all risk is yours, dont get it in your eyes, or eat the foam, or rub it on yourself, or anything like that (disclaimer applies LOL) it is NASTY, extremely flammable and caustic, but it dissolves (well loosens) carbon which is what sticks the turbo up in the first place. Pull the spray nozzle off the tin, and insert the wee spout thats left, into the 3mm tube you shoved down into the turbo, THEN using a small shifter or a pair of needle nose pliers, gently grip the can's spout thru the tubing, and press down with the pliers / shifter so it injects the foam down into the turbo. Watch as it rises up the manifold hole as you dont want it anywhere near the head exhaust ports, it eats aluminium. This is not a problem tho, as the middle where the turbo port is, has a long straight section well away from the head ports so you would have to put a lot of foam in before it would reach that far, and would come out of the egr hole first.
Fill the turbo till it shows at the top of the hole the tube is down, but dont go nuts. Remember rubber gloves and bin the tubes and tin afterwards.
After an hour or 2 (mine took minutes to free but was left a couple of hours - I had the actuator off so could feel the lever sticking then suddenly it was nice and smooth) reach down and operate the VNT lever up into the actuator body and let it drop, it should shut under spring pressure and go right back to the bottom of its travel, unlike sticking at the top like it will have been doing. Then when its free, put the egr pipe on and go for a spin, change up at no less than 3k where possible once warmed up and blow that crap out of the turbo.....it will work like a charm, no more overboost or limp mode, just perfect boost and pulls like a train now
You can use a minivac hand pump to operate the actuator, and when you press the release button it should fall back to the bottom immediately, starting to move at 3" vacuum, and finished full stroke against the stop screw, by 17" vacuum (for the technical out there with such a tool - ebay Ł25 - very handy - can bleed stuff single handed with it too using just a bit of clear tubing).
DO THIS ON A COLD ENGINE ONLY!
Needed:
12mm socket and small extension
M6 hex key (allen key)
Metal tube for leverage on allen key (helps but not absolutely necessary)
Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner Foam Spray, Ł2.55 from Asda.
Remove the EGR pipe (2 nuts and 2 socket head screws, tight, use a metal tube slipped over an allen key and crack them off, top ones are the allens, and soak the nuts with penetrant first like wd40 or lusol or something. (I put new M8 nuts and star washers back on as the originals are rusty old tat now)
Get a length of 3mm ID vac tubing, silicon etc or anything you can find, feed the tube into the egr hole in the exhaust manifold, but using a torch, get it to turn down into the hole to the exhaust turbine and push till it goes almost right in (oer misssus ) It MUST go DOWN the hole, not in and left or right, but DOWN, this is important!!! Make sure the tubing has dropped down the cast hole that leads to the exhaust turbine, its not hard but needs care to get it in properly, once its in, it shoves right in quite easy and silicon tube cant damage anything in there.
Take a tin of Mr Muscle oven cleaner (sodium hydroxide, DONT get any on you anywhere, it burns like a BITCH. Seriously, its safe enough to do this but all risk is yours, dont get it in your eyes, or eat the foam, or rub it on yourself, or anything like that (disclaimer applies LOL) it is NASTY, extremely flammable and caustic, but it dissolves (well loosens) carbon which is what sticks the turbo up in the first place. Pull the spray nozzle off the tin, and insert the wee spout thats left, into the 3mm tube you shoved down into the turbo, THEN using a small shifter or a pair of needle nose pliers, gently grip the can's spout thru the tubing, and press down with the pliers / shifter so it injects the foam down into the turbo. Watch as it rises up the manifold hole as you dont want it anywhere near the head exhaust ports, it eats aluminium. This is not a problem tho, as the middle where the turbo port is, has a long straight section well away from the head ports so you would have to put a lot of foam in before it would reach that far, and would come out of the egr hole first.
Fill the turbo till it shows at the top of the hole the tube is down, but dont go nuts. Remember rubber gloves and bin the tubes and tin afterwards.
After an hour or 2 (mine took minutes to free but was left a couple of hours - I had the actuator off so could feel the lever sticking then suddenly it was nice and smooth) reach down and operate the VNT lever up into the actuator body and let it drop, it should shut under spring pressure and go right back to the bottom of its travel, unlike sticking at the top like it will have been doing. Then when its free, put the egr pipe on and go for a spin, change up at no less than 3k where possible once warmed up and blow that crap out of the turbo.....it will work like a charm, no more overboost or limp mode, just perfect boost and pulls like a train now
You can use a minivac hand pump to operate the actuator, and when you press the release button it should fall back to the bottom immediately, starting to move at 3" vacuum, and finished full stroke against the stop screw, by 17" vacuum (for the technical out there with such a tool - ebay Ł25 - very handy - can bleed stuff single handed with it too using just a bit of clear tubing).
Last edited by BRAMMER; 15-01-2011 at 02:19 PM.
#12
competant bodger
iTrader: (2)
ive found the best way is to take the turbo off split the compressor and exhaust housing then clean each of the vanes and housing by hand then refit its just like new then, however after reading the mr muscle trick above i think ill try that next time as it sounds like a good method
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