Testing Wiring Loom?
02-01-2011, 04:26 PM
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Testing Wiring Loom?
Evening,
Ive had to extend my wiring loom on my ERST and was wondering what the best way is to test the joints to make sure they work, as i dont want to fit the loom all back in then find bits dont work.
Its all stuff in the engine bay that have been extended light lights etc.
Cheers
Ive had to extend my wiring loom on my ERST and was wondering what the best way is to test the joints to make sure they work, as i dont want to fit the loom all back in then find bits dont work.
Its all stuff in the engine bay that have been extended light lights etc.
Cheers
02-01-2011, 04:48 PM
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If you've got a wiring diagram for it then the easiest way in my eyes would be to use a multimeter to intially check for continuity (a beep test) and maybe check the resistance to see if any connections are high resistance.
02-01-2011, 04:58 PM
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Yeah. On your multimeter (if you have one) you should have a setting that suggests it'll beep, be it a music note or a speaker or whatever. Put one probe at one end of the wire you want to test, the other probe at the other. When you touch on there should be a beep and normally the screen will show a 1. Alternatively, measure the resistance in the same way and look out for high numbers.
02-01-2011, 05:13 PM
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Ello mate!
Erm its going slow!! Finished off one side all braided up looks nice. Naa they soldered shite! The new wires was fine but the old wire was horrible to sold and the solder didnt want to stick to it. Thats why i want to check it before it all goes back in the car.
Erm its going slow!! Finished off one side all braided up looks nice. Naa they soldered shite! The new wires was fine but the old wire was horrible to sold and the solder didnt want to stick to it. Thats why i want to check it before it all goes back in the car.
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02-01-2011, 05:28 PM
#8
I'm doing the main light etc loom atm, left side as you look from the front. Its a fecking mess now to be honest and I'm getting the the point that I want/need to pay someone (who?, I have no idea!) to finish it as its holding everything up.
The old wires won't take solder no matter how hot I get them, lol the bloody insulation melts off the wires before the solder!
I think the way to go would be a fusebox back re-wire but thats more involved than I wanted to go
The only part of mine which is complete and I have confidence in is my fuel rail loom (efi) thats mint but only 20% of the job. Not complete in the pic below (is now though) but you get the idea, new lol
The old wires won't take solder no matter how hot I get them, lol the bloody insulation melts off the wires before the solder!
I think the way to go would be a fusebox back re-wire but thats more involved than I wanted to go
The only part of mine which is complete and I have confidence in is my fuel rail loom (efi) thats mint but only 20% of the job. Not complete in the pic below (is now though) but you get the idea, new lol
02-01-2011, 05:37 PM
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Just a hint dudes if the old wire wont tack splay the wire and scrap with very fine sand paper untill clean done this on a mgb the wires were 40 years old and it worked.
02-01-2011, 05:47 PM
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I'm doing the main light etc loom atm, left side as you look from the front. Its a fecking mess now to be honest and I'm getting the the point that I want/need to pay someone (who?, I have no idea!) to finish it as its holding everything up.
The old wires won't take solder no matter how hot I get them, lol the bloody insulation melts off the wires before the solder!
I think the way to go would be a fusebox back re-wire but thats more involved than I wanted to go
The only part of mine which is complete and I have confidence in is my fuel rail loom (efi) thats mint but only 20% of the job. Not complete in the pic below (is now though) but you get the idea, new lol
The old wires won't take solder no matter how hot I get them, lol the bloody insulation melts off the wires before the solder!
I think the way to go would be a fusebox back re-wire but thats more involved than I wanted to go
The only part of mine which is complete and I have confidence in is my fuel rail loom (efi) thats mint but only 20% of the job. Not complete in the pic below (is now though) but you get the idea, new lol
Yeh thats the same side ive done mate. Done all 3 of the wires going to the lights indicator/main/side lights, looks like your injecto loom which i must say is looking good mate!!! But like ive said earlier i need to test it all yet so god knows if it works!!
How are you joining them?
I found the best way is to cut the insulation off, dont twist the copper wire just push them together with the other wire so they all "overlap" eachother. If you get me?
02-01-2011, 05:48 PM
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02-01-2011, 06:19 PM
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I've not successfully joined any! I will try as suggested by Chaz88 and yourself. I've been trying how I would normally solder 'new' wires, tin each each wire to be joined and then fuse together with heat.
For my injector loom I used new wires and plugs however, I couldn't find the main plug which connects back to the loom so here I need to connect all my new wires to the existing wires coming from my plug...Good luck me!
For my injector loom I used new wires and plugs however, I couldn't find the main plug which connects back to the loom so here I need to connect all my new wires to the existing wires coming from my plug...Good luck me!
02-01-2011, 08:40 PM
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If you can't get solder to take on old wire, it's a sign it needs replacing!
However - as an alternative, if you can't replace it - rather than soldering it - i'd be using female to female crimps and adhesive lined heatshrink over the top.
However - as an alternative, if you can't replace it - rather than soldering it - i'd be using female to female crimps and adhesive lined heatshrink over the top.
02-01-2011, 08:45 PM
#15
Youve got the loom in front of you so its not so hard to make a new one.
02-01-2011, 09:09 PM
#16
Try some flux,60/40 tin lead solder and you should be ok.Strip the insulation off about 10mm,twist and tin.Do the same with both wires,trim to desired length hold next to each other one one way and one the other and solder.Dont forget the heatshrink first.Unless its really oxidised the flux should be your best friend 
I would try and stay away from using push fit crimps because if they go manky they will cause resistance.These are better,second one down.Shrink after crimping,I have some and I think they were from RS .
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d47.html
I would try and stay away from using push fit crimps because if they go manky they will cause resistance.These are better,second one down.Shrink after crimping,I have some and I think they were from RS .
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d47.html
02-01-2011, 09:59 PM
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Continuity check it to ensure you have wired it up right. Resistance check it for joint quality. I'd also do an insulation resistance check with a Megger between adjacent wires in the loom/pins in a plug.
Not sure if the pins you are using can be crimped, but I'd also crimp them rather than soldering them. Soldering is a shite idea for a loom that's subject to vibration! Also you open yourself up to stuff like dry joints and fecked insulation from soldering (hence it's important to check the loom!)
Not sure if the pins you are using can be crimped, but I'd also crimp them rather than soldering them. Soldering is a shite idea for a loom that's subject to vibration! Also you open yourself up to stuff like dry joints and fecked insulation from soldering (hence it's important to check the loom!)
03-01-2011, 03:30 PM
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I've not successfully joined any! I will try as suggested by Chaz88 and yourself. I've been trying how I would normally solder 'new' wires, tin each each wire to be joined and then fuse together with heat.
For my injector loom I used new wires and plugs however, I couldn't find the main plug which connects back to the loom so here I need to connect all my new wires to the existing wires coming from my plug...Good luck me!
For my injector loom I used new wires and plugs however, I couldn't find the main plug which connects back to the loom so here I need to connect all my new wires to the existing wires coming from my plug...Good luck me!
Where you get the new injector plugs for? And hows the car coming along?
03-01-2011, 03:32 PM
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Continuity check it to ensure you have wired it up right. Resistance check it for joint quality. I'd also do an insulation resistance check with a Megger between adjacent wires in the loom/pins in a plug.
Not sure if the pins you are using can be crimped, but I'd also crimp them rather than soldering them. Soldering is a shite idea for a loom that's subject to vibration! Also you open yourself up to stuff like dry joints and fecked insulation from soldering (hence it's important to check the loom!)
Not sure if the pins you are using can be crimped, but I'd also crimp them rather than soldering them. Soldering is a shite idea for a loom that's subject to vibration! Also you open yourself up to stuff like dry joints and fecked insulation from soldering (hence it's important to check the loom!)
03-01-2011, 07:29 PM
#20
Phil has a point there,it does all depend on were the loom is because what he says about vibration is right.Iirc F1 stuff is crimped and soldered because of that reason.Solder can crack,as for using a megger I doubt most people know what one is never mind owning one.I think the ones I used to use at work chucked about 1000v down the line to check insulation breakdown.It was easier using machines that you just plugged the NEW looms in.If you want to go even better on wiring things into a block you cant go wrong with stycast.If it was good enough for the aerospace industry its good enough for a car 
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