T3 turbo, does anyone not run watercooling
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As above peeps finding it very hard to find the metal pipes that come of the turbo that the hoses connect to
, so was wondering if anyone has/used to run no water cooling, and the pros/cons of this, many thanks
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ah cool, what about letting the turbo stop spinning once u have drove it?....dont fancy popping up the shop 2 minutes away....then waiting 3 minutes before i can get out and go in
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Why would Garrett and the like design cores with water ways if they weren't needed?
Why would car manufacturers go the expense of fitting a turbo with water cooling + pipe work, etc, if it wasn't needed?
if its there, I would use it
Why would car manufacturers go the expense of fitting a turbo with water cooling + pipe work, etc, if it wasn't needed?
if its there, I would use it
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you should be able to go to the shops fine if you drive normally if your on boost the whole time your going to the shop then yes you have to wait for turbo to cool plus you shouldnt be on boost whilst the engines cold ![Wink](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
i go to the shops and turn engine of etc PROVIDING i havn't been on boost but i dont boot my car whilst its cold i give it 10 15 mins to warm up
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i go to the shops and turn engine of etc PROVIDING i havn't been on boost but i dont boot my car whilst its cold i give it 10 15 mins to warm up
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Garrett change specs of things - you really think that a liquid that boils at near 100 degrees will help cool a device that runs far far hotter ? It will evaporate the water - oil evaporates at a far higher temp.
Renault never ran water cooling on the t4s stuck in the europa cups. Its not needed .
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the brass banjos on k-jet fuel pipes can be used as these pipes, they are the correct size,cut off the plastic and just braze on a small length of copper to them. Ive done this before no probs.
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actually the way the water cooling works is different to you think, and is more for when you switch the car off!
the water is SUPPOSED to turn to steam, this in term rises (the exit is above the input) sucking more water into the turbo and repeat.
it acts as a sort of water pump!
the water is SUPPOSED to turn to steam, this in term rises (the exit is above the input) sucking more water into the turbo and repeat.
it acts as a sort of water pump!
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actually the way the water cooling works is different to you think, and is more for when you switch the car off!
the water is SUPPOSED to turn to steam, this in term rises (the exit is above the input) sucking more water into the turbo and repeat.
it acts as a sort of water pump!
the water is SUPPOSED to turn to steam, this in term rises (the exit is above the input) sucking more water into the turbo and repeat.
it acts as a sort of water pump!
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actually the way the water cooling works is different to you think, and is more for when you switch the car off!
the water is SUPPOSED to turn to steam, this in term rises (the exit is above the input) sucking more water into the turbo and repeat.
it acts as a sort of water pump!
the water is SUPPOSED to turn to steam, this in term rises (the exit is above the input) sucking more water into the turbo and repeat.
it acts as a sort of water pump!
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I always thought the reason you ran your car on idle for a bit for the oil pressure to drop. If not the oil that is in the turbo will get super heated by the heat of the turbo, expand and then crack the turbo.
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nope, its to let the turbo cool so it doesnt cook the oil inside it, causing it to carbo up and eventualy fuck the bearings in the turbo
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Won't cause any probs at all, my S1 has an S2 turbo on it and it's fine, has been for years....
On S2's especially when tuned your usually looking to drop the water temps anyway.
The reason you let the car run on after booting it if you've came to a stop fairly quick after driving it on boost is because the shaft is still spinning at a high RPM, and if you cut the engine, then obv there is no oil running through the turbo, shaft may/prob will run dry and that's when wear will occur.......not for 'cooling' reasons
On S2's especially when tuned your usually looking to drop the water temps anyway.
The reason you let the car run on after booting it if you've came to a stop fairly quick after driving it on boost is because the shaft is still spinning at a high RPM, and if you cut the engine, then obv there is no oil running through the turbo, shaft may/prob will run dry and that's when wear will occur.......not for 'cooling' reasons
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if that makes sense.
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Dan - we have this arguement on 21toc.com every 2 weeks.
Garrett change specs of things - you really think that a liquid that boils at near 100 degrees will help cool a device that runs far far hotter ? It will evaporate the water - oil evaporates at a far higher temp.
Renault never ran water cooling on the t4s stuck in the europa cups. Its not needed .
Garrett change specs of things - you really think that a liquid that boils at near 100 degrees will help cool a device that runs far far hotter ? It will evaporate the water - oil evaporates at a far higher temp.
Renault never ran water cooling on the t4s stuck in the europa cups. Its not needed .
europa cup and superproduction yeah ok but they are rebuilt after every season.
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i also got a brand new front wing less than 6 months ago as well £48 + vat after being told there was no way i would get one from ford lol!
you would be surprised what you can still get for rs turbo's just depends if the parts guy is sound or not ive dealt with a lot of pricks at various ford garages who just tell you straight away there is no chance we will have that without even trying
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The phase 1 GTT ran with air / oil cooling only. Mine was fine 17 years after it was build on the original turbo.
I suspect a great deal of 21ts water pumps dont work . I really dont see the point.
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its fine to run as long as you have the correct bearing housing. The proper oil cooled housings have larger oil ways around the bearings. I don't see the point in super heating your water system for the sake of it. we all try and get as low temps as possible most of the time.
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I think it's actually there to RAISE the oil temperature quicker so the oil gets up to temp quicker in the sleeve bearings, oil doesn't protect very well at all when cold.
The core/bearing housing on the s1 and s2 is different, but T3 T34 T38 T4 all use the exact same bearing core, lack of lubrication and cooking oil is the reason for a cool down, but if you just drive the last mile after a hard thrash you can switch off fine, otherwise as said oil esp crap oil can carbonise and block oilways.
You can buy very cheaply flexy pipe and banjo's that fit straight on from parkers etc, about £3 each for the banjo's.
tabetha
The core/bearing housing on the s1 and s2 is different, but T3 T34 T38 T4 all use the exact same bearing core, lack of lubrication and cooking oil is the reason for a cool down, but if you just drive the last mile after a hard thrash you can switch off fine, otherwise as said oil esp crap oil can carbonise and block oilways.
You can buy very cheaply flexy pipe and banjo's that fit straight on from parkers etc, about £3 each for the banjo's.
tabetha
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i think its not so much as water cooling but heating as your car will warm up quicker with a water cooled core [nice warm heaters]+it ment to stop oil coking up on hot shut down as well
good oil and reg changes will be ok on oil only cores
good oil and reg changes will be ok on oil only cores
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