What size of scrambler?
#1
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Thread Starter
What size of scrambler?
What size of scrambler would you recommend, im not used with motorbikes, i was on an 80cc before and thought it was very lifty. I looked at a 250 kx today but it was massive, im 6ft 2 but i had to lie it down to the side to throw my leg over.
Would a 125 be better, its not for anything serious just spinning about the farm.
Is all 125s the same size as in is their ones for children. I dont want to go looking at one and find out its for a child?
Would a 125 be better, its not for anything serious just spinning about the farm.
Is all 125s the same size as in is their ones for children. I dont want to go looking at one and find out its for a child?
#2
3dr Cosworth owner
bikes come in all sizes with same engines. I think its the wheel size that dictates the frame size. A kx250 would be a bit much for a newby.125 will be fine. Or they do 4 strokes that are more civilised
#3
st170 breaking
if its for pottering about get a 250 4 stroke or 2 stroke maybe a 125 2 stroke but nothing mental
i looked at a crm250 today that would be perfect for that sort of thing as its not so highly strung its needs loads of mainanance cheap too at 650! with road docs too
a propper crosser will need love and care, i looked at a few this weekend and be very careful you have to know your way around one, traveling to look at summet thats fucked is very annoying especially when on the way home you hear theres a newer and totally pristine yz250 for not much more inc new set of plastics Ł2k of trick bits and its never been in top gear- buying from rich kids the the way forward
if its for fields and the odd jump get a road styled crosser, excellent fun, hardy and still plenty of punch
ive been looking on gumtree, least you are local then
check
noises, bike engines tell you when they are fucked and you can tell alot from the taps
dont beleve the advert, if they say they service it every day look at the oil, if its black its been left un serviced
chain and sprokets and tyres are service items but good uns will save you a couple of ton
get it in the air and wiggle wheels front to back (but stationary) to see if theres movement in wheel bearings and headstock bearings, whiel its in teh air go thru the gears while it runs, will show any slack or bad noises without leaning down while you ride
check those numbers, crossers get stolen every day and then sold a millions times over too, check a crosser forum, its everywhere (looked on the ktm forum and a guy had his bikes lifted when the removed tiles from the garage dropped down and used his tools to unlock bikes then his trailer to nick em)
dont beleve ebay prices, local bikes are much cheaper
dont buy chinese if you want it to be trouble free
today i asked 2 people i was doin jobs for if they knew any crossers (chit chat whil working) both had recently sold good bikes for cheap money, ask everyone yoe meet and you may fall on a good un (im buying a minter yz250 2006 thru a mate and it it truley immaculate)
i looked at a crm250 today that would be perfect for that sort of thing as its not so highly strung its needs loads of mainanance cheap too at 650! with road docs too
a propper crosser will need love and care, i looked at a few this weekend and be very careful you have to know your way around one, traveling to look at summet thats fucked is very annoying especially when on the way home you hear theres a newer and totally pristine yz250 for not much more inc new set of plastics Ł2k of trick bits and its never been in top gear- buying from rich kids the the way forward
if its for fields and the odd jump get a road styled crosser, excellent fun, hardy and still plenty of punch
ive been looking on gumtree, least you are local then
check
noises, bike engines tell you when they are fucked and you can tell alot from the taps
dont beleve the advert, if they say they service it every day look at the oil, if its black its been left un serviced
chain and sprokets and tyres are service items but good uns will save you a couple of ton
get it in the air and wiggle wheels front to back (but stationary) to see if theres movement in wheel bearings and headstock bearings, whiel its in teh air go thru the gears while it runs, will show any slack or bad noises without leaning down while you ride
check those numbers, crossers get stolen every day and then sold a millions times over too, check a crosser forum, its everywhere (looked on the ktm forum and a guy had his bikes lifted when the removed tiles from the garage dropped down and used his tools to unlock bikes then his trailer to nick em)
dont beleve ebay prices, local bikes are much cheaper
dont buy chinese if you want it to be trouble free
today i asked 2 people i was doin jobs for if they knew any crossers (chit chat whil working) both had recently sold good bikes for cheap money, ask everyone yoe meet and you may fall on a good un (im buying a minter yz250 2006 thru a mate and it it truley immaculate)
#6
st170 breaking
#7
3dr Cosworth owner
bikes come in all sizes with same engines. I think its the wheel size that dictates the frame size. A kx250 would be a bit much for a newby.125 will be fine. Or they do 4 strokes that are more civilised
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#10
"SNIFF MY DIFF"
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all 125, 250, 450 etc. crossers are basically the same height, at 6ft 2" you
should fly on 1 mate.
if a crosser is too powerfull for you then you'd be better off looking at road bikes
like the kawasaki KMX 125 or 200, yamaha DT 125, honda XR 125 or 250.
should fly on 1 mate.
if a crosser is too powerfull for you then you'd be better off looking at road bikes
like the kawasaki KMX 125 or 200, yamaha DT 125, honda XR 125 or 250.
#11
Part of the Furniture
Thread Starter
So are you telling me a 125 will be the same size of bike as a 250. The man that owned the 250 said the kx was a bigger bike and his mate had a yamaha and it was smaller, his mate races them but he couldnt sit on the kx to start her but could sit on the yamaha.
I was looking gumtree and i saw a 125 kx and it said it had the bigger wheels.
For starting off and putting my feet down more than normal it was definately to big.
I was looking gumtree and i saw a 125 kx and it said it had the bigger wheels.
For starting off and putting my feet down more than normal it was definately to big.
#12
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i've had motocross bikes since i was 5 so yes that is what i'm saying, if 1 is sitting lower then the suspension has either been adjusted or its fucked.
heres the specs of a 2011 KTM 125SX, 2011 KTM 250SX and 2011 KTM 450SX for you to compare
the wheel base,ground clearence and seat height etc.
2011 KTM 125SX:
Engine type Single cylinder, 2-stroke
Displacement 124.8 cc
Bore x stroke 54 x 54.5 mm (2.13 x 2.15")
Starter Kickstarter
Transmission 6 gears
Carburetor Keihin PWK 38S AG
Control Exhaust control
Lubrication Mixture oil lubrication 1:40
Transmission oil Motorex, SAE 15W50
Primary drive 23:73
Final drive 13:50
Cooling Liquid cooling
Clutch Wet multi-disc clutch, operated hydraulically
Ignition Kokusan
Frame Central double-cradle-type 25CrMo4
Subframe Aluminium
Handlebar Renthal, Aluminium Ř 28/22 mm (1.10/0.87")
Front suspension WP USD Ř 48 mm (1.89")
Rear suspension WP PDS shock absorber
Suspension travel front/rear 300/336 mm
Brakes, front/rear Disc brakes 260/220 mm (10.24/8.66")
Rims, front/rear 1.60 x 21"; 2.15 x 19" Excel
Tires, front/rear 80/100-21"; 100/90-19"
Chain 5/8 x 1/4"
Main silencer Aluminium
Steering head angle 63.5°
Wheel base 1480ą10 mm
Ground clearance (unloaded) 385 mm
Seat height 992 mm
Tank capacity approx. 7,5 liters
Weight (no fuel) approx. 88.8 kg
2011 KTM 250SX:
Engine type Single cylinder, 2-stroke
Displacement 249 cc
Bore x stroke 66.4 x 72 mm (2.61 x 2.83")
Starter Kickstarter
Transmission 5 gears
Carburetor Keihin PWK 36S AG
Control TVC power valve
Lubrication Mixture oil lubrication 1:60
Transmission oil Motorex, SAE 15W50
Primary drive 26:72
Final drive 13:48
Cooling Liquid cooling
Clutch Wet multi-disc clutch, operated hydraulically
Ignition Kokusan
Frame Central double-cradle-type 25CrMo4
Subframe Aluminium
Handlebar Renthal, Aluminium Ř 28/22 mm (1.10/0.87")
Front suspension WP USD Ř 48 mm (1.89")
Rear suspension WP PDS shock absorber
Suspension travel front/rear 300/336 mm
Brakes, front/rear Disc brakes 260/220 mm (10.24/8.66")
Rims, front/rear 1.60 x 21"; 2.15 x 19" Excel
Tires, front/rear 80/100-21"; 110/90-19"
Chain 5/8 x 1/4"
Main silencer Aluminium
Steering head angle 63.5°
Wheel base 1495ą10 mm
Ground clearance (unloaded) 385 mm (15.16")
Seat height 992 mm
Tank capacity approx. 7,5 liters
Weight (no fuel) approx. 93,8 kg
2011 KTM 450SX:
Engine type Single cylinder, 4-stroke
Displacement 449.3 cc
Bore x stroke 97 x 60,8 mm (3.82 x 2.39")
Compression ratio 12.5:1
Starter Electric starter/12V 3 Ah
Transmission 5 gears
Carburetor Keihin FCR MX 41
Control 4 V/DOHC with finger followers
Lubrication Pressure lubrication with 3 oil pumps
Engine lubrication Motorex, SAE 10W50
Primary drive 29:74
Final drive 14:52
Cooling Liquid cooling
Clutch Wet multi-disc clutch, operated hydraulically
Ignition Kokusan
Frame Central double-cradle-type 25CrMo4
Subframe Aluminium
Handlebar Renthal, Aluminium Ř 28/22 mm
Front suspension WP-USD Ř 48 mm (1.89")
Rear suspension WP-Monoshock with linkage
Suspension travel front/rear 300/330 mm
Brakes, front/rear Disc brakes 260/220 mm (10.24/8.66")
Rims, front/rear 1.6 x 21"; 2.15 x 19" Excel
Tires, front/rear 80/100-21"; 110/90-19"
Chain 5/8 x 1/4"
Main silencer Aluminium
Steering head angle 63,5°
Wheel base 1495ą10 mm
Ground clearance (unloaded) 371 mm
Seat height 992 mm
Tank capacity approx. 7.5 liters
Weight (no fuel) approx. 106.9 kg
heres the specs of a 2011 KTM 125SX, 2011 KTM 250SX and 2011 KTM 450SX for you to compare
the wheel base,ground clearence and seat height etc.
2011 KTM 125SX:
Engine type Single cylinder, 2-stroke
Displacement 124.8 cc
Bore x stroke 54 x 54.5 mm (2.13 x 2.15")
Starter Kickstarter
Transmission 6 gears
Carburetor Keihin PWK 38S AG
Control Exhaust control
Lubrication Mixture oil lubrication 1:40
Transmission oil Motorex, SAE 15W50
Primary drive 23:73
Final drive 13:50
Cooling Liquid cooling
Clutch Wet multi-disc clutch, operated hydraulically
Ignition Kokusan
Frame Central double-cradle-type 25CrMo4
Subframe Aluminium
Handlebar Renthal, Aluminium Ř 28/22 mm (1.10/0.87")
Front suspension WP USD Ř 48 mm (1.89")
Rear suspension WP PDS shock absorber
Suspension travel front/rear 300/336 mm
Brakes, front/rear Disc brakes 260/220 mm (10.24/8.66")
Rims, front/rear 1.60 x 21"; 2.15 x 19" Excel
Tires, front/rear 80/100-21"; 100/90-19"
Chain 5/8 x 1/4"
Main silencer Aluminium
Steering head angle 63.5°
Wheel base 1480ą10 mm
Ground clearance (unloaded) 385 mm
Seat height 992 mm
Tank capacity approx. 7,5 liters
Weight (no fuel) approx. 88.8 kg
2011 KTM 250SX:
Engine type Single cylinder, 2-stroke
Displacement 249 cc
Bore x stroke 66.4 x 72 mm (2.61 x 2.83")
Starter Kickstarter
Transmission 5 gears
Carburetor Keihin PWK 36S AG
Control TVC power valve
Lubrication Mixture oil lubrication 1:60
Transmission oil Motorex, SAE 15W50
Primary drive 26:72
Final drive 13:48
Cooling Liquid cooling
Clutch Wet multi-disc clutch, operated hydraulically
Ignition Kokusan
Frame Central double-cradle-type 25CrMo4
Subframe Aluminium
Handlebar Renthal, Aluminium Ř 28/22 mm (1.10/0.87")
Front suspension WP USD Ř 48 mm (1.89")
Rear suspension WP PDS shock absorber
Suspension travel front/rear 300/336 mm
Brakes, front/rear Disc brakes 260/220 mm (10.24/8.66")
Rims, front/rear 1.60 x 21"; 2.15 x 19" Excel
Tires, front/rear 80/100-21"; 110/90-19"
Chain 5/8 x 1/4"
Main silencer Aluminium
Steering head angle 63.5°
Wheel base 1495ą10 mm
Ground clearance (unloaded) 385 mm (15.16")
Seat height 992 mm
Tank capacity approx. 7,5 liters
Weight (no fuel) approx. 93,8 kg
2011 KTM 450SX:
Engine type Single cylinder, 4-stroke
Displacement 449.3 cc
Bore x stroke 97 x 60,8 mm (3.82 x 2.39")
Compression ratio 12.5:1
Starter Electric starter/12V 3 Ah
Transmission 5 gears
Carburetor Keihin FCR MX 41
Control 4 V/DOHC with finger followers
Lubrication Pressure lubrication with 3 oil pumps
Engine lubrication Motorex, SAE 10W50
Primary drive 29:74
Final drive 14:52
Cooling Liquid cooling
Clutch Wet multi-disc clutch, operated hydraulically
Ignition Kokusan
Frame Central double-cradle-type 25CrMo4
Subframe Aluminium
Handlebar Renthal, Aluminium Ř 28/22 mm
Front suspension WP-USD Ř 48 mm (1.89")
Rear suspension WP-Monoshock with linkage
Suspension travel front/rear 300/330 mm
Brakes, front/rear Disc brakes 260/220 mm (10.24/8.66")
Rims, front/rear 1.6 x 21"; 2.15 x 19" Excel
Tires, front/rear 80/100-21"; 110/90-19"
Chain 5/8 x 1/4"
Main silencer Aluminium
Steering head angle 63,5°
Wheel base 1495ą10 mm
Ground clearance (unloaded) 371 mm
Seat height 992 mm
Tank capacity approx. 7.5 liters
Weight (no fuel) approx. 106.9 kg
#17
Part of the Furniture
Thread Starter
I dont know what to think anymore. It wasnt the power that scared me it was the sheer size and weight. In an open field where your not stopping all the time its probably easier. For any1 under 6 foot to take it down a narrow lane and try and turn it around, i cant see how they could do it without jumping off and wheeling it around.
#18
Just going to be a case of getting used to it mate, all big lumps but when you are familar with it it will be second nature.
Pick up something you can bash about that isn't mint until your used to it then move up.
Pick up something you can bash about that isn't mint until your used to it then move up.
#19
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i would go for a 125 mate, i had never ridden a bike before i got 1 a few year ago, im just under 6ft and it wasnt really a problem, just go steady with the clutch!
i got a cr125 1987 now that im restoring when funds/time allows and when sat on it, i can put both feet on the floor on my tiptoes so not too bad
i got a cr125 1987 now that im restoring when funds/time allows and when sat on it, i can put both feet on the floor on my tiptoes so not too bad
#20
st170 breaking
I dont know what to think anymore. It wasnt the power that scared me it was the sheer size and weight. In an open field where your not stopping all the time its probably easier. For any1 under 6 foot to take it down a narrow lane and try and turn it around, i cant see how they could do it without jumping off and wheeling it around.
full lock and dump thd clutch, the bike will get you round in 1
you shoudl never have the wheels traveling at the same speed as the dirt on a crosser
#21
PF Idiot Sniper
iTrader: (1)
Im a road bike man and crossers can scare me
I know someone who RACES supermoto's and moto x. He races a 125 crosser and only gets reeled in on the straights. Only now after a few years racing is going to move to 250 to be more competitive.
That tells me all i need to know about whether anyone really needs a 250!
I know someone who RACES supermoto's and moto x. He races a 125 crosser and only gets reeled in on the straights. Only now after a few years racing is going to move to 250 to be more competitive.
That tells me all i need to know about whether anyone really needs a 250!
#25
PassionFord Post Whore!!
that was the only proper crosser i've been on, i shit myself fucking cunting insane them things put me off big time! I started gently put it in second and the bastard of a thing was spinning the back while the front was coming up. Knocked it into 3rd same fucking thing wtf! It was a monster, only had a few goes tbh and the same thing every fucking time
#26
competant bodger
iTrader: (2)
that was the only proper crosser i've been on, i shit myself fucking cunting insane them things put me off big time! I started gently put it in second and the bastard of a thing was spinning the back while the front was coming up. Knocked it into 3rd same fucking thing wtf! It was a monster, only had a few goes tbh and the same thing every fucking time
it looked like someone had gone across the field with a plow!
suffice to say on a drier day it wheelied like fook!
#27
PassionFord Post Whore!!
when i first got mine years ago (i was about 15) i took it out in the pissing rain on a field near home, i was gutted that it wouldnt wheelie in any gear no matter how hard i tried until my mate pointed out it wasnt doing wheelys because i was just digging massive trenches behind me with the back wheel lol!
it looked like someone had gone across the field with a plow!
suffice to say on a drier day it wheelied like fook!
it looked like someone had gone across the field with a plow!
suffice to say on a drier day it wheelied like fook!
#29
PassionFord Post Whore!!
#32
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buy an enduro bike - best of both worlds trail and scrambler
i've had 2 kdx 200's and they were cracking bikes reliable , lightweight etc
for me 125 scramblers scream their heads off
and a 250 may be just to big for you the now
i've had 2 kdx 200's and they were cracking bikes reliable , lightweight etc
for me 125 scramblers scream their heads off
and a 250 may be just to big for you the now
#33
st170 breaking
i would go for a 125 mate, i had never ridden a bike before i got 1 a few year ago, im just under 6ft and it wasnt really a problem, just go steady with the clutch!
i got a cr125 1987 now that im restoring when funds/time allows and when sat on it, i can put both feet on the floor on my tiptoes so not too bad
i got a cr125 1987 now that im restoring when funds/time allows and when sat on it, i can put both feet on the floor on my tiptoes so not too bad
just noticed your bits about the cr, im gonna restore my 88cr125 soon so if you find a stash of parts i will need a few
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