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Negative camber on one Wheel!

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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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Default Negative camber on one Wheel!

Mk1 Focus 1.8. I recently noticed that my front drivers side wheel has really negative camber, its been like that since i bought the car (checked old pics) Since buying, its had new bottom arm, new suspension, new knuckle and hub. but its still negative. What else could it be?

CheeRS
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 05:43 PM
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Did you HPI it? Hate to say it, but it could have been in a bump. My Mondeo's the same, and I presume either the strut top is bent or the subframe is!
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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I did check but it wasnt. Maybe someone hit a kerb or something. Yea i was thinking to replace the subframe as u can pick them up cheap. Or i could get adjustable top mounts i suppose
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 05:50 PM
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It might have had a bump and it was not reported hence nothing on hpi,if you have replaced most parts it sounds like the subframe is damaged
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 05:51 PM
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would this cause high speed handling "twitchyness" ?
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 06:00 PM
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Would say so mate ^^^
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 06:08 PM
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It's the shock absorber just above the knuckle (hub carrier) that's bent.
You won't easily see it until you remove it.

Compare how far the top inside edge of the tyre is from the shock absorber just under the spring, one side v the other.
You've probably got a bent track rod as well on the same side.

It won't be the subframe.

.

Last edited by focusv8; Oct 24, 2010 at 06:10 PM.
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 06:11 PM
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ok il try a new track rod, it cant be the shock, as its had all new shocks recently and it stayed the same
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by focusv8
It's the shock absorber just above the knuckle (hub carrier) that's bent.
You won't easily see it until you remove it.

Compare how far the top inside edge of the tyre is from the shock absorber just under the spring, one side v the other.
You've probably got a bent track rod as well on the same side.

It won't be the subframe.

.
What if you're replaced the dampers and springs, track rod ends, and wishbones, and wheels and it's still showing negative? Do knuckles really bend?
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 06:33 PM
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i'm going with the "its been in a bump"

prob bent the chassis rail a bit pulling the top mount in slightly causing excessive negative camber.

oh and i doubt very much the subframe is bent, they're really beefy and the firthest forward point is the front bolt for the wishbone. a LOT of chassis damage would occur FAR before even touching the subframe!

Last edited by phil_focus; Oct 24, 2010 at 06:37 PM.
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by DanW@FastFord
What if you're replaced the dampers and springs, track rod ends, and wishbones, and wheels and it's still showing negative? Do knuckles really bend?
been there, done that when i ripped the wheel, including the strut and steering arm, out of the saph a while back

you could actually see the ball joint had twisted the bottom of the hub as it was torn out, the ball joint was still in there though as it had pulled itself out of the bottom of the arb, so if something similar has happened here it might be the fault
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 06:46 PM
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so what should i do to rectify the situation, adjustable top mounts? or subframe change?
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 07:38 PM
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go and get the alignment checked to see whats bent, best £50 you'll spend
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 07:44 PM
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Get it checked over by somebody who knows what they are doing would be a good start before buying other parts
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Kayble
so what should i do to rectify the situation, adjustable top mounts? or subframe change?
Find the true cause, not try to cover up the problem.

.
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 07:57 PM
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ok cool, anyone know a good place near Glasgow to get it checked?
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by DanW@FastFord
What if you're replaced the dampers and springs, track rod ends, and wishbones, and wheels and it's still showing negative? Do knuckles really bend?
On my mate's clio 172 we measured everything up due to the same problem and it worked out that the hub must have been incorrectly machined (or the bearing pressed in on the wonk, perhaps).
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