cutch

iTrader: (1)

Right guys i am going to rebuild the bottom end on the cossie before it goes back in the car, i know the crankshaft oil seals are needing done but what else do i need to buy and where from........i'm a newbie to this, going to have help from a mate that knows what to do but i'm learning! I would like to replace all the shells, do i need to get new rings for pistons while i am there??? .Who would you recomemend for parts.

Lambchop

iTrader: (1)

Did you see my reply on this post inc ars for sale?

I have a crank should you want/need one. .25 grind and polish.

cutch

iTrader: (1)

dont know if i need it yet mate, going to split it and have a looksie, hopefully shouldnt. trying to keep costs down......the builds costing a fortune!

cutch

iTrader: (1)

oh i might have found someone that can make the series 1 alloys in 17".......its going to be pricey!

saph4be

matt lewis for ya parts youll need full set off bearings,thrust washers, arp con rod bolts while your there pistonrings if the bore is within tolerance, oil pump if it worn and a set off gaskets i think that about it mate!

pete mcrash

iTrader: (1)

as above......phone matt lewis

-beefy-

iTrader: (6)

ideally mate , strip the bottom end and have parts inspected ,

good motor engineers should be able to tell you whats within tolarance ect ,

you imo what to have the following checked ,

pistons and rings - to bore clearance
conrod "little ends " to gudgeon pin
crankshaft - big and mains ,

block faces all mounting faces

then full bottom end gasket set , bearings to suit the crank inspection , arp rod bolts -new rings if needed

that should cover the bottom end mate

beef

tabetha

Depending on how the engine is, how it's been treated you may need little, my engine I have just done after 200,973 miles(not a misprint 200K!!) the crank didn't even really need a polish let alone a grind, but then I did thrash mine so oil was always nice and clean.
Hopefully you will be able to re use the thrust bearings, as the oe lead/copper ones are much better/harder wearing than the modern tin/lead jobs, my own crank was like new, the bearings could have been re used without any problem, and didn't really show any wear, un believable though this is, opposite lock on here saw them, hardly marked, so I re used my 200K old thrust bearings, which came out at 4 thou thrust, well within new tolerance.
The bores were worn so bad they nearly missed 1st over size and jumped to 2nd, but just about got it with 1st oversize.
I really wouldn't re ring a cossie, but if reboring make sure they use a deck plate, if they don't walk away and use someone who does know what they are doing, pinto blocks 200 included wobble like jelly when being bored so the hole isn't concentric from top to bottom.
Don't forget to knock out the oil gallery plugs and clean these out, the rear plug, which is a ball bearing can be knocked by passing a rod right through the block from the front and knock it out, then tap the hole and put a screw plug in it, normal plug in front, no pint having crap in the oil way when it's so easy to get out.
Clean out the crank holes also, the thin brushes sold in aldi lidl etc are ideal for this and what I use, if I can't find my engine brushes.
Bits needed will be come evident when taken apart, you can use a std pinto pump if 2wd and simply swap the cover over, about £24 for a decent hand picked one, beware there's lots of crap pumps out there, my engine place I get my machining done reject around 50% of the new pumps for defects they get supplied.
Consider getting everything balanced, the yb is good but not the best by any means in balance terms, consider also getting the VERY heavy flywheel lightened also.
tabetha