Help! Keeping a Cosworth Cool on track...
#1
Help! Keeping a Cosworth Cool on track...
I did a track day yesterday in my 3dr, and after 4/5 laps of being out, i was seeing water temps of 95-100 degrees which meant i had to come off, let it cool, then go back out again for another 4-5 laps
I was just wondering what mods/add ons people have been using to keep them cool? i see at a lot of track days that quite a few cossies can be out for 30 mins at a time without coming in!
Its 100% fine on the road, so i dont think its a mechanical issue....
My setup is as follows:
Stage 3 T34.63 housing running 34psi
RS500 Airtec cooler
Airtec Radiator
I tried removing the front grille completely, removing number plate, water wetter, new header tank cap, leaving fans constantly on.
Any ideas for making it run cooler?
cheers
I was just wondering what mods/add ons people have been using to keep them cool? i see at a lot of track days that quite a few cossies can be out for 30 mins at a time without coming in!
Its 100% fine on the road, so i dont think its a mechanical issue....
My setup is as follows:
Stage 3 T34.63 housing running 34psi
RS500 Airtec cooler
Airtec Radiator
I tried removing the front grille completely, removing number plate, water wetter, new header tank cap, leaving fans constantly on.
Any ideas for making it run cooler?
cheers
#2
turn the heater up. take the bonnet off... but really, all i would suggest is an airtec rad and intercooler, but seeing as you have those :S i dont know.
there was a thread similar to this a few days ago.
there was a thread similar to this a few days ago.
#3
cool boost?
I never had any issue with mine on track, all i had was rs500 cooler, std rad and normal water/anti freeze mix.
Try going smaller headlights too I have some you can try
I never had any issue with mine on track, all i had was rs500 cooler, std rad and normal water/anti freeze mix.
Try going smaller headlights too I have some you can try
#7
Although lower temperatures are desirable, remember water does NOT boil at 100 degrees in a cars pressurised cooling system !
Not sure of the exact temperature equation versus pressure but you wont see it boil until about 105 to 108 degrees C provided the pressure cap is in good order.
Not sure of the exact temperature equation versus pressure but you wont see it boil until about 105 to 108 degrees C provided the pressure cap is in good order.
Trending Topics
#8
Although lower temperatures are desirable, remember water does NOT boil at 100 degrees in a cars pressurised cooling system !
Not sure of the exact temperature equation versus pressure but you wont see it boil until about 105 to 108 degrees C provided the pressure cap is in good order.
Not sure of the exact temperature equation versus pressure but you wont see it boil until about 105 to 108 degrees C provided the pressure cap is in good order.
#9
when i fitted the rad, i DID notice the temps raise even on the road, BUT, i had just fitted the 500 cooler aswell so that obviously completely blocks up the rad. i have heard some people say that the alloy rads on cossies makes them run hotter?
might take you up on your offer mate
#11
Although lower temperatures are desirable, remember water does NOT boil at 100 degrees in a cars pressurised cooling system !
Not sure of the exact temperature equation versus pressure but you wont see it boil until about 105 to 108 degrees C provided the pressure cap is in good order.
Not sure of the exact temperature equation versus pressure but you wont see it boil until about 105 to 108 degrees C provided the pressure cap is in good order.
#16
I always thought alloy rads were a bad idea as the cant/dont dissipitate heat as well as std rads.
Mike they are here in Langley mate so pop down - you can check out the 3dr ornament i got too
Mike they are here in Langley mate so pop down - you can check out the 3dr ornament i got too
#17
#19
errrrm possibly because the turbo is off a rally car and has a maram shaft and there is no take off for a water feed.
#20
just change the rad for a standard item and see how it goes then.
as said i never had any cooling issues on track - the last time was on track in coombe in 2006 - we did several sessions that day (5 or 6 in total) and the car never missed a beat but my heart missed several
as said i never had any cooling issues on track - the last time was on track in coombe in 2006 - we did several sessions that day (5 or 6 in total) and the car never missed a beat but my heart missed several
#22
i have all the airtec stuff on mine, rad, cooler and pre cooler and never go over 95degrees even at brands hatch in the heatwave we had in june,
as simon said it will not boil at 100degrees due to the pressure,
could be head gasket is getting weak?
as simon said it will not boil at 100degrees due to the pressure,
could be head gasket is getting weak?
#23
Whos told you that then?? Ive got a cosworth and its most definatly got water cooling. series 2 rs turbo's even have it. its series 1 turbo's that dont have water cooling
#24
even though you have nt got water cooling you could possibly stick a turbo cooler on cos it means your getting water on board plus more being pushed through an extra radiator
just be a case of piping up slightly different than normal
just be a case of piping up slightly different than normal
Last edited by hitchwest; 25-08-2010 at 12:12 AM.
#29
I mainly use mine for track days, I've got a pace 500 cooler, Airtec alloy rad and turbo cooler, and a oil cooler in front of that lot!, But I have got a extra couple of holes in the front grill,
I have no probs with mine and runs normal temp even after 10-15 laps.
I have no probs with mine and runs normal temp even after 10-15 laps.
#30
i would flush the rad out, might have an airlock in the rad? check for hot/cold spots
also, as a test maybe try a std rad and see how it gets on,
when on the road and going up hills at low speed and then comes on boost, does the temp rise? if yes, possible head gsaket
my noddy cosworth, had the same issue as you and it was a cracked block
get a pug like mine, 30+ air tems and the water just stays at 80 degrees
also, as a test maybe try a std rad and see how it gets on,
when on the road and going up hills at low speed and then comes on boost, does the temp rise? if yes, possible head gsaket
my noddy cosworth, had the same issue as you and it was a cracked block
get a pug like mine, 30+ air tems and the water just stays at 80 degrees
#32
I asked this question the other day cuz im having exact same probs on track as you mate. some good suggestions here..
https://passionford.com/forum/ford-s...-on-track.html
https://passionford.com/forum/ford-s...-on-track.html
#33
oh i forgot to add i fitted a swirl pot too
#35
#36
#37
cheers for all the replies chaps, some VERY helpful info on that other thread too
has anyone noticed any difference with a swirl pot at all? im thinking of getting the bailey header tank/swirl pot combo as my header tank looks like its about to explode with all the cracks it has in it.
has anyone noticed any difference with a swirl pot at all? im thinking of getting the bailey header tank/swirl pot combo as my header tank looks like its about to explode with all the cracks it has in it.
#38
I asked this question the other day cuz im having exact same probs on track as you mate. some good suggestions here..
https://passionford.com/forum/ford-s...-on-track.html
https://passionford.com/forum/ford-s...-on-track.html
#40
And nor should you with the amount of fookin money you've shelled out recently
If you remember Mike I could only do about 3-4 laps around Combe the other month in mine because of it getting hot, I swapped my 400 cooler for a 4x4 one and I had no probs on Monday, ran at around 90 degree's on track.
I would defo try a standard rad before anything else mate.
If you remember Mike I could only do about 3-4 laps around Combe the other month in mine because of it getting hot, I swapped my 400 cooler for a 4x4 one and I had no probs on Monday, ran at around 90 degree's on track.
I would defo try a standard rad before anything else mate.