buying an E36 325i...any advice?
28-05-2010, 06:44 AM
#1
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buying an E36 325i...any advice?
been offered a deal on an E36 325, in decent enough nick, no minter but its not bad. engines sweet, 110k, few bits of rust but its all fixable. main thing is, im swapping it for a car that owes me 140 quid 
just wondered what peoples experience/opinion of them is like? any advice on common faults to check for or particular mods to do? looking to try my hand at a bit of drifting and try and get it to a few trackdays.
just wondered what peoples experience/opinion of them is like? any advice on common faults to check for or particular mods to do? looking to try my hand at a bit of drifting and try and get it to a few trackdays.
28-05-2010, 07:21 AM
#2
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When I went to look at my 328 I was advised to listen for a clunking noise when selecting 1st and 2nd as this is a sign that the diff's about to shit itself or rip itself off the boot floor because the bushes are gone.
cunt of a job to sort as well apparently as the whole rear subframe has to come off to weld it back up.
Was also told that if you drive it like a hooligan you WILL end up in this situation.
cunt of a job to sort as well apparently as the whole rear subframe has to come off to weld it back up.
Was also told that if you drive it like a hooligan you WILL end up in this situation.
28-05-2010, 07:23 AM
#3
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good cars, I've had a couple of these.
The only things to look out for are;
Electric window control module failure
Broken rear springs
Rust on the rear arches
And that is doesn't over heat
If all of the above are ok, then you should be sound, the go well too.
Sounds like you can't lose
The only things to look out for are;
Electric window control module failure
Broken rear springs
Rust on the rear arches
And that is doesn't over heat
If all of the above are ok, then you should be sound, the go well too.
Sounds like you can't lose
28-05-2010, 08:31 AM
#5
Don't really know a massive amount about them only what I come across when I get sent out to them.
The most common things I come across are broken suspension springs and overheating problems. They also seem to blow headgaskets very easily if overheated too. A lot of the time when I go to one for overheating, they have just had work done on the cooling system and not had the air bled out sufficiently causing air locks. They can be a total bastard to bleed!!
The most common things I come across are broken suspension springs and overheating problems. They also seem to blow headgaskets very easily if overheated too. A lot of the time when I go to one for overheating, they have just had work done on the cooling system and not had the air bled out sufficiently causing air locks. They can be a total bastard to bleed!!
28-05-2010, 10:05 AM
#7
PassionFord Post Troll
Rear brake pipes - if they haven't been replaced already they will need doing soon.
Front wishbone bushes and ball joints
Rear trailing arm bushes
Rear shock top mounts
Cooling system - temp gauge should be rock steady when up to temp - if it fluctuates avoid...
Front wishbone bushes and ball joints
Rear trailing arm bushes
Rear shock top mounts
Cooling system - temp gauge should be rock steady when up to temp - if it fluctuates avoid...
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28-05-2010, 10:55 AM
#8
I've got a 328i, i spank the brains out of it every day, its done 158,000 miles and its sweet as. Never put a foot wrong.
Took it to santa pod (was the only estate there lol) and split an engine mount, but thats it. The bit about the diff isn't really very common, you can get strenghthening plates from BMW to fix this.
The rear shock mounts fail every 10-15K and knock, easy upgrade to m3 mounts. Brakes are alright but much better with fast road pads.
Be prepared to change all of its bushes and ball joints if this hasn't been done as it will make a MASSIVE difference.
Good luck! and if you can be bothered i would highly recommend the 328 over the 325, much faster and easier to drive (it actually has power below 4000 rpm),
Rob,
Took it to santa pod (was the only estate there lol) and split an engine mount, but thats it. The bit about the diff isn't really very common, you can get strenghthening plates from BMW to fix this.
The rear shock mounts fail every 10-15K and knock, easy upgrade to m3 mounts. Brakes are alright but much better with fast road pads.
Be prepared to change all of its bushes and ball joints if this hasn't been done as it will make a MASSIVE difference.
Good luck! and if you can be bothered i would highly recommend the 328 over the 325, much faster and easier to drive (it actually has power below 4000 rpm),
Rob,
28-05-2010, 12:14 PM
#9
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Rob - out of interest, have you swapped your inlet manifold for the 325 one?
Been considering doing this on my 328 as apparently it frees up a fair bit more power.
Been considering doing this on my 328 as apparently it frees up a fair bit more power.
28-05-2010, 01:28 PM
#10
No, i have thought about it.... supposedly free's up alot of power up the top. Mines an auto and whilst some people have gotten nearly 40 brake with the 325 manifold and remap they loose a chunk of low eng torque which is pretty nice with an auto....
More food for thought
E36 m3 and m3 evo exhaust manifolds (nice stainless tubular jobbies) fit straight on, as does the whole m3 exhaust with an extra bracket... sounds really really nice.
The US spec m3 cams go right in.... there are people that have gone from the standard 190brake to nearly 250 with the cams, intake and complete exhaust systems which is pretty impressive! considering the 3.0 m3 is 280brake with 3litres and throttle bodies,
They are pretty nippy as standard so 250brake would make it a quick old tub
Rob,
More food for thought
E36 m3 and m3 evo exhaust manifolds (nice stainless tubular jobbies) fit straight on, as does the whole m3 exhaust with an extra bracket... sounds really really nice.
The US spec m3 cams go right in.... there are people that have gone from the standard 190brake to nearly 250 with the cams, intake and complete exhaust systems which is pretty impressive! considering the 3.0 m3 is 280brake with 3litres and throttle bodies,
They are pretty nippy as standard so 250brake would make it a quick old tub
Rob,
28-05-2010, 01:52 PM
#12
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Also, get the Z3 reinforcement plates for the rear top shock mountings as well - the shells are getting tired now & the plates are cheaper than getting the welder out if you intend driving it hard.
28-05-2010, 02:22 PM
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28-05-2010, 03:06 PM
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Hiya, used to work for BMW, few pointers from the workshops!!
- Rear diff bushes go on high milers, car will 'clunk' when going into gear. Not that bad a job if you know what your doing, massive tip is get poly bushes from MSport or similar and it won't go again
- Fuel senders go for fun on high milers. The tank is split in two under the back bench either side of the prop shaft. The sender unit is on the drivers side...i think from memory...and the earth contact corrodes.
- Step 1 on the blower motor usually fails on anything over 10yrs old, and contrary to popular belief its the fuse in the fuse box that goes. They have two motors, and its the fuse for the low speed motor that pops. You'll usually find fan speed 3 and 4 work fine.
- Handling can be bad on high mileage cars, but 90% of the time its the tracking. Don't be put off by something that pulls to one side cause 20 quid at kwikfit etc will sort it right out
- Anything thats over heating is usually going to cost money. As already mentioned its usually the viscous fan coupling on the way out, or the block is air locked. There are numerous bleed points round the engine, and anything involving this really is a specialist job with a specific procedure. Get someone who knows what they're doing. If the car has had a head gasket replaced, or had the head off for any reason, the book needs to be stamped by a BMW garage or you'll have trouble over the next 12 months. Heads crack between cylinders 3 and 4, and replacements are expensive.
Hope this helps
Dave
*** edit
as far as tuning them goes, cat-back exhaust, 325 inlet with k+n panel and a remap is the way to go you'll approaching around 235bhp on this spec. The 325 engine was the homologated choice for touring cars at the time, so comes with a better flowing inlet and head and revs much better than the 328. The 328 was intended as the 325's replacement, and whilst good, isn't as raw when driven back to back with a 325.
- Rear diff bushes go on high milers, car will 'clunk' when going into gear. Not that bad a job if you know what your doing, massive tip is get poly bushes from MSport or similar and it won't go again
- Fuel senders go for fun on high milers. The tank is split in two under the back bench either side of the prop shaft. The sender unit is on the drivers side...i think from memory...and the earth contact corrodes.
- Step 1 on the blower motor usually fails on anything over 10yrs old, and contrary to popular belief its the fuse in the fuse box that goes. They have two motors, and its the fuse for the low speed motor that pops. You'll usually find fan speed 3 and 4 work fine.
- Handling can be bad on high mileage cars, but 90% of the time its the tracking. Don't be put off by something that pulls to one side cause 20 quid at kwikfit etc will sort it right out
- Anything thats over heating is usually going to cost money. As already mentioned its usually the viscous fan coupling on the way out, or the block is air locked. There are numerous bleed points round the engine, and anything involving this really is a specialist job with a specific procedure. Get someone who knows what they're doing. If the car has had a head gasket replaced, or had the head off for any reason, the book needs to be stamped by a BMW garage or you'll have trouble over the next 12 months. Heads crack between cylinders 3 and 4, and replacements are expensive.
Hope this helps
Dave
*** edit
as far as tuning them goes, cat-back exhaust, 325 inlet with k+n panel and a remap is the way to go
you'll approaching around 235bhp on this spec. The 325 engine was the homologated choice for touring cars at the time, so comes with a better flowing inlet and head and revs much better than the 328. The 328 was intended as the 325's replacement, and whilst good, isn't as raw when driven back to back with a 325.
Last edited by mobb-black; 28-05-2010 at 03:14 PM.
28-05-2010, 04:22 PM
#17
as far as tuning them goes, cat-back exhaust, 325 inlet with k+n panel and a remap is the way to go you'll approaching around 235bhp on this spec. The 325 engine was the homologated choice for touring cars at the time, so comes with a better flowing inlet and head and revs much better than the 328. The 328 was intended as the 325's replacement, and whilst good, isn't as raw when driven back to back with a 325.
You can put the instrument cluster into a test mode and get it to tell you if the car has ever been overheated etcetc.
With the ignition off, hold in the mileage reset button and turn the ignition to the 1st position, let go of the button and watch the light display.... do a google on instrument cluster test e36 and it will tell you exactly what to do and what all the numbers mean.
And Mike1 my rack needs changing soon so thats a handy tip
i have bought the m3 offset bottom arm bushes which are a direct fit and give you more caster, so better self straightening and sharper turn in, so both together should make a fair difference! Rob,
Last edited by Rob_DOHC; 28-05-2010 at 04:25 PM.
28-05-2010, 06:09 PM
#18
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all realy useful info guys thanks!!! ive conveniently just got a new job at eurocarparts in stoke so will be able to get plenty of discount on everything i need for it i hope!
is it the 2.8 or 3.0 Z3 engine i need the inlet from?
is it the 2.8 or 3.0 Z3 engine i need the inlet from?
28-05-2010, 07:12 PM
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Had my 328 cabby for eight years now and only when it hit 170000 did I have any probs with it.head cracked at 190000 and I've just had it replaced in last few months but haven't really been in the car much since so the bleeding tip is real handy just in case.I didn't really look after the car as well as I should so I think if your 325i has been reasonably well kept you'll have no bother,been told the 325i is better than the 328 as it uses an iron block which is tougher than the 328's.we love ours and I can't wait to paint it up in Ferrari red for the summer and just enjoy the silky smooth motor,lively handling and Germanic build quality,I've put 110000 miles on mine and hand on heart it's NEVER failed to start,I'm not saying it's not been 110% plain sailing but they are really good motors.I think all the boys above have covered the faults but also watch out for little things like electric window switches failing etc. but there's milions scrapped now and spares should be in abundance.
28-05-2010, 10:22 PM
#21
325 and 328 have the same block. identical, in fact the 328 crank, pistons and rods will go in a 325 lump to make a 328. E46 Pistons, crank and rods will also bolt straight in to make a 3.0 litre lump. To my knowledge only the M3 had a cast iron block. As above, if you look after them properly and change all the fluids every few years (and oil every 6K) they will last forever. Mine smokes very very slightly when i first start it in cold weather, but it was only serviced every 15K by bmw when really it should be less than 10K in my book.
One last thing to mention is the nikasil problems bmw had with these cars. If its done 110K and is alright you should be fine, do a compression check before you buy the car. They ditched the nikasil 98 onwards, plastic radiator tank ends can crack and leak, plastic thermostat casings can do the same, water pumps were later replaced with metal impellers as early plastic ones broke up and every one i have seen has had a perished throttle body to airbox boot (Ł18 from BMW).
Eurocar parts! you should be right at home then mate, bits are cheap from them with out the discount
Further upgrades for the 325...
328i rear disks are vented, 325's are solid, a quick upgrade is obviously to get some 328 rear callipers and disks for it.
The e46 330i had pretty massive front brakes which will go on an e36 (again disks an callipers) with standard pads i can fade my brakes pretty easily.
Pretty sure thats it, and as a happy side note, driven carefully on the motorway i get 38 mpg average driven mostly at 80 mph, 22 driven carefully in london traffic and 16 if i spank it.... mine is an auto so a manual should do better.... i was pleasantly surprised by the economy when i bought it!
Rob,
One last thing to mention is the nikasil problems bmw had with these cars. If its done 110K and is alright you should be fine, do a compression check before you buy the car. They ditched the nikasil 98 onwards, plastic radiator tank ends can crack and leak, plastic thermostat casings can do the same, water pumps were later replaced with metal impellers as early plastic ones broke up and every one i have seen has had a perished throttle body to airbox boot (Ł18 from BMW).
Eurocar parts! you should be right at home then mate, bits are cheap from them with out the discount
Further upgrades for the 325...
328i rear disks are vented, 325's are solid, a quick upgrade is obviously to get some 328 rear callipers and disks for it.
The e46 330i had pretty massive front brakes which will go on an e36 (again disks an callipers) with standard pads i can fade my brakes pretty easily.
Pretty sure thats it, and as a happy side note, driven carefully on the motorway i get 38 mpg average driven mostly at 80 mph, 22 driven carefully in london traffic and 16 if i spank it.... mine is an auto so a manual should do better.... i was pleasantly surprised by the economy when i bought it!
Rob,
Last edited by Rob_DOHC; 28-05-2010 at 10:27 PM.
28-05-2010, 10:28 PM
#22
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Yes, the eccentric bushes for the rear of the bottom arm effectively give you a 10mm-ish longer wheelbase i.e more caster and preserves the -ve camber for longer on turn-in. You can also get the crash bolts for the hub that will give you 30 mins extra -ve camber per side approx ( or at least allow you to even it up easier side to side ). And that's without going for the reversed M3 top mounts on the front struts which can give you more
28-05-2010, 10:32 PM
#23
PassionFord Post Troll
330 discs are much bigger again but you will probably find you want the M3 master cylinder as well otherwise if you stick with the existing E36 one your pedal travel will go 'long' as the 330 calipers have a bigger swept volume internally
28-05-2010, 10:35 PM
#24
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The E36 328 block is the M52 type - either Nicasil liners in an alloy block ...or on later ones steel liners in an alloy block. The Nicasil liners were subject to sulphuric acid corrosion
Either way an E36 328 block is substantially lighter than an E36 325 iron block
28-05-2010, 10:47 PM
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Thought I was right about the block but all the tips on here are awesome,better than the e36 forum......not that it's particularly good,I couldn't find any advice on how to swap an e36 m3 motor into an e36 328i!!!
29-05-2010, 03:22 PM
#27
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i've got a m50 525i which i believe is the very same as the 325, while it's not the fastest thing on the road it's nice to drive and suprisingly good on fuel.
29-05-2010, 06:46 PM
#28
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i recon theres got to be LOADS of weight that could be taken out the car. im tempted to go down the same route as my xr2i and completely strip it. im not sure though, got to weigh up the performance gains against having a nice comfy daily driver....
31-05-2010, 10:07 PM
#32
Nice one mate and Mike1 i really never knew the m50 had a cast iron block! the 323 (which is a 2.5) does have an alloy block but on reflection this would be classed as an m52. And yep Nikasil was ditched 98 onwards.
Some rubbish photos but wheels on an e36 make a massive difference, this is my wanker mobile with some bbs's on, honestly mate, just you wait.... no one ever lets you out of side roads in a german motor lol
If you get one with projector lenses (not sure if this was late cars or all?) HID kits do a world of good, you get a brilliant beam pattern too
Rob,
and Mike1 i really never knew the m50 had a cast iron block! the 323 (which is a 2.5) does have an alloy block but on reflection this would be classed as an m52. And yep Nikasil was ditched 98 onwards. Some rubbish photos but wheels on an e36 make a massive difference, this is my wanker mobile with some bbs's on, honestly mate, just you wait.... no one ever lets you out of side roads in a german motor lol
If you get one with projector lenses (not sure if this was late cars or all?) HID kits do a world of good, you get a brilliant beam pattern too
Rob,
31-05-2010, 10:12 PM
#33
As far as i am aware (if it helps) the m3 engine goes straight in bolt for bolt, but im not 100% on the wiring looms? obviously you will need an m3 ecu but im not sure if it will plug into a 328i loom..... the early 328's had a different ecu to the later ones too......
Rob,
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