Help/Advice ABS Light on.
Thread Starter
Wahay!! I've lost my Virginity!!
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: west sussex
Any ideas? 3Dr been laid up prior winter, just brought it home for the summer and the damn ABS light is.... The system was ok when last used, worked as advertised. Have parted and remade all connectors from wheel sencers and the electric pump is cycling when it should but fault still present. So where to now, im sure its only a dirty plug. Ideas welcome...
If you're hearing buzzing with the key at 'I' then the relays are probably OK.
Would you like a copy of the Ford ABS Diagnostic manual?
mine was always good then suffered this problem too, for 9 months and 3k tut tut (dont tell anyone) light always on, coming back from blackpool msd , last 80 miles or so me pal drove , we then noticed the light was gone, abs working, not sure if msd fixed it without saying (im sure they would of) or the car liked my friend lolol pmsl . Also found a rear number plate light back in action too.
Thread Starter
Wahay!! I've lost my Virginity!!
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: west sussex
Thanx guys, will look at the relay's and i'll get some electrical cleaner and retrace my steps so far, im back on shift till the weekend before i can get my mits dirty, but will get back to you all, so fingers crossed!
Cosmeister if the problem persists then will take you up on your offer of the ABS Bible, speak soon...
Cosmeister if the problem persists then will take you up on your offer of the ABS Bible, speak soon...
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Thread Starter
Wahay!! I've lost my Virginity!!
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: west sussex
Glenny Boy... In answer to your question. ignition on n start, ABS lights on till pressure built up in accumulator, then lights go out, approx 10 secs, well within spec. If pressure present in accumulator, ABS lights will stay on until the lights cluster on centre console (above clock etc) have done their bite check. The problem arises when you drive off and will stay on till ignition switched off. Abit long winded i know but thats the problem blow by blow...
The general rule of thumb is that if the yellow light's off until you reach ~15kph, it'll be a wheel sensor/toning ring (teeth) fault.
Start with basics first: there are two fuses - a 30A one attached to the purple relay (pump motor) and a 20A one attached to the green relay (ABS system). If either is popped, the system won't work. Both brake warning lights (red and yellow) will be lit.
If the yellow light's on before you start moving, it's either a wheel sensor wiring fault (ie, shorted/broken coaxial cable or disconnected), OR, one of the level/pressure sensors is reporting a problem. The valve blocks are pretty reliable, so it's rarely that. If the pump motor's not working, the pressure will be low, which will bring the yellow light on, shortly followed by the red one.
A faulty or unpowered ABS ECU can also cause the yellow light to stay on. The hydraulic pump is not controlled by the ECU - its relay is energised by the pressure switch in the hydraulic unit. This is so that full braking power will still be available but without anti-lock. If you have a mate nearby, get him to pop over and swap ECUs - you'll soon see if it's knackered.
On occasion, flushing clean brake fluid through the system can sort it out if it's a piece of grot or loose sediment gumming it up - but most problems with the Sierra ABS are electrical to some degree.
Start with basics first: there are two fuses - a 30A one attached to the purple relay (pump motor) and a 20A one attached to the green relay (ABS system). If either is popped, the system won't work. Both brake warning lights (red and yellow) will be lit.
If the yellow light's on before you start moving, it's either a wheel sensor wiring fault (ie, shorted/broken coaxial cable or disconnected), OR, one of the level/pressure sensors is reporting a problem. The valve blocks are pretty reliable, so it's rarely that. If the pump motor's not working, the pressure will be low, which will bring the yellow light on, shortly followed by the red one.
A faulty or unpowered ABS ECU can also cause the yellow light to stay on. The hydraulic pump is not controlled by the ECU - its relay is energised by the pressure switch in the hydraulic unit. This is so that full braking power will still be available but without anti-lock. If you have a mate nearby, get him to pop over and swap ECUs - you'll soon see if it's knackered.
On occasion, flushing clean brake fluid through the system can sort it out if it's a piece of grot or loose sediment gumming it up - but most problems with the Sierra ABS are electrical to some degree.
Thread Starter
Wahay!! I've lost my Virginity!!
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: west sussex
Thanx guys.... guess who's going to be a busy little bee. Will go through it all as sugested, when im on my days off. Will report back if im making honey, or whining if not....
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 62,771
Likes: 1,049
From: Darlington county durham
As already said sounds like a pick up ring covered in grease or shit lol.I wouldnt even try to attempt to get the sensors out of the hubs.I would just remove the drive shafts and front hubs to clean the pick up rings.My abs light was on a few weeks ago.I knew it was the osf wheel.The sensor came out ok cause ive had it out many a time.
There was a bit of grease inbetween the teeth.I stuck a small screw driver in the abs sensor hole and cleaned the gaps between the teeth.It took some doing but its sorted now.
There was a bit of grease inbetween the teeth.I stuck a small screw driver in the abs sensor hole and cleaned the gaps between the teeth.It took some doing but its sorted now.
Its an old thread, but my Sierra sapphire RS 4x4 ABS light stays on dim, and when still standing and the brake is pressed, it goes a bit brighter.
I changed all 4 sensors, but still same, so Im guessing its an issue elsewhere.
Im posting in the Sierra section to. Cheers
I changed all 4 sensors, but still same, so Im guessing its an issue elsewhere.
Im posting in the Sierra section to. Cheers
Last edited by 80s-new-man; Apr 5, 2025 at 02:16 AM.
It's great that the site is kept alive as reference. There is so much great info on this forum! But it's a shame not a lot more is added these days since everyone is on facebook now.
Well, there are still a lot of Cosworths around and the different facebook groups have huge amounts of members, so I actually think this site could be full of people still.
Well back to the original theme, and for the benefit of anyone I found the auxiliary fuses/relays eventually after some digging RHs of the main ecu there is a bracket with 2 captive nuts, undo these and the holder can be dropped.
..and found one piggy back fuse out on top of the first yellow relay. Swapped it for a new one and now everything is hunky dory! Good luck out there guys. 🍺
Last edited by 80s-new-man; Aug 22, 2025 at 04:51 PM.
hi mate, as I said above, the issue was solved in my saf by taking out the auxiliary fuse tray which basically if I remember holds 4 relays with piggy back fuses on them. The nearest relay is a yellow one which the piggy back fuse on it had blown. After replacing it she was fine.
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