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best diff for 2wd cosworth

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Old 08-03-2010, 09:32 PM
  #41  
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If you've never done something before then for gods sake fudge course you won't be able to do it
Old 08-03-2010, 09:43 PM
  #42  
Fudgey
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so how the fuck do people learn anything if they are too pussy to try and do it!
Old 09-03-2010, 08:07 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Fudgey
so how the fuck do people learn anything if they are too pussy to try and do it!
I think your biggest problem may be getting hold of the special silicone gel to go inside the VC once you have cut it open - perhaps Bara or CTS would advise you. I'm not sure where you'd get new seals and uprated nickel plates ( if you wanted more 'locking action' ) from. I'm no expert on this ( Marco Polo might be able to tell you more ) but I've never seen a rebuild manual for a VC.
If you manage to do it let us know though - sounds an interesting project
After you've set all the plates etc I think it then has to be laser welded shut
Old 09-03-2010, 08:16 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Mike1
I think your biggest problem may be getting hold of the special silicone gel to go inside the VC once you have cut it open - perhaps Bara or CTS would advise you. I'm not sure where you'd get new seals and uprated nickel plates ( if you wanted more 'locking action' ) from. I'm no expert on this ( Marco Polo might be able to tell you more ) but I've never seen a rebuild manual for a VC.
If you manage to do it let us know though - sounds an interesting project
After you've set all the plates etc I think it then has to be laser welded shut
right, thats the kind of info i was after. so in reply to is it a DIY job, a simple no would have done, would it not?
Old 09-03-2010, 08:26 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Fudgey
i take it you have never driven a car with a welded diff then?

i used the FF drift shitter every day for a year to drive to work and back, 70 miles a day...

the only time you notice it is when making a tight turn ie parking, or when the arse lets go and you dont crash like you would have in a std 2wd cos lol
i wouldent need to drive one mate my own gripper is bad enough for a road car so a diff with no give in it at all must be terrible in a road car and in my opinion is just a bodge way of fixing the fact the standard diff is not up too takeing high amounts of torque! but maybe we just go about things different mate as thats my opinion
Old 09-03-2010, 08:42 PM
  #46  
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still perfectly drivable everyday tho isnt it?

if you can put up with a bit of tyre scrubbing on tight turns...
Old 09-03-2010, 08:44 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Mike1
If you mean adjust the Viscous Coupling, I think the fact you have to ask would mean 'no' to a DIY rebuild

Someone like Bara or CTS could do it though
also, i just thought...

a std cossie 2wd or 4x4 diff is NOT a viscous diff...!
Old 09-03-2010, 08:49 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Fudgey
still perfectly drivable everyday tho isnt it?

if you can put up with a bit of tyre scrubbing on tight turns...
if u class banging and clunking and skipping about on loose sufaces as ok in your everyday car than yes mate it is lol. But as i dont and the saff is just a toy it dosent bother me as i have another car
Old 09-03-2010, 08:51 PM
  #49  
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but a welded diff wont bang or clunk, it will just scrub the tyre with the smaller turning circle
Old 09-03-2010, 08:53 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by ajamesc
if u class banging and clunking and skipping about on loose sufaces as ok in your everyday car than yes mate it is lol. But as i dont and the saff is just a toy it dosent bother me as i have another car

if you have a plate diff thats doing that then its not set up for your intended use. they dont all do that.
Old 09-03-2010, 09:02 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by markk
if you have a plate diff thats doing that then its not set up for your intended use. they dont all do that.
no then there must be something wronge with it from new when i got it from gripper mate! And what about all the other times people post saying there gripper diffs bang and clunk at low speeds. I was told by gripper it would be noisey over a normal diff and its set up for fast road use!

Last edited by ajamesc; 09-03-2010 at 09:03 PM.
Old 09-03-2010, 09:04 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by ajamesc
no then there must be something wronge with it from new when i got it from gripper mate! And what about all the other times people post saying there gripper diffs bang and clunk at low speeds. I was told by gripper it would be noisey over a normal diff and its set up fpr fast road use!

yes there will be slight noise, more so when new, as the plates wear in it should be all but silent, if not you have either got the wrong ramp angles in it, or the incorrect pre-load.

I have had four or so of gripper (when Tom had it) and had only one set up wrong.
Old 09-03-2010, 09:06 PM
  #53  
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The reason the Grippers grind and clunk is that Tom Seal (Gripper) changed some of the washers for thicker ones to make them stronger and it pushes all the settings higher so the diff settings need to be alot lower but he will not listen if you tell him.

Think road should be about 75nm and when Marco tested his as it was set the rate was 110nm hence the noise being louder.

Think mine is set wrong as it is very noisey either that or i have damaged it some how as it was never like this till i took it to Pod then had the diff rebuilt after and still noisey

Last edited by Gav Diamond; 09-03-2010 at 09:08 PM.
Old 09-03-2010, 09:11 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Gav Diamond
The reason the Grippers grind and clunk is that Tom Seal (Gripper) changed some of the washers for thicker ones to make them stronger and it pushes all the settings higher so the diff settings need to be alot lower but he will not listen if you tell him.

Think road should be about 75nm and when Marco tested his as it was set the rate was 110nm hence the noise being louder.

Think mine is set wrong as it is very noisey either that or i have damaged it some how as it was never like this till i took it to Pod then had the diff rebuilt after and still noisey
there was a mods a good while back to the bevel gears iirc, but as mine was in a rally car it didnt make any differance, but plated diffs have been used in road cars by manufacturers so they dont need to be clunky.
Old 09-03-2010, 09:14 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by markk
there was a mods a good while back to the bevel gears iirc, but as mine was in a rally car it didnt make any differance, but plated diffs have been used in road cars by manufacturers so they dont need to be clunky.
Well im not 100% the noise on mine is all diff but will know once the new gearbox goes in so if its still noisey i know i have damaged the diff, just Bara said he couldn't see anything wrong but it seems like the noise is from the back so assumed diff.
Old 09-03-2010, 09:17 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Gav Diamond
Well im not 100% the noise on mine is all diff but will know once the new gearbox goes in so if its still noisey i know i have damaged the diff, just Bara said he couldn't see anything wrong but it seems like the noise is from the back so assumed diff.

check you have not cracked a ball race cage in a shaft joint, i didnt and thought it was a diff problem.
Old 09-03-2010, 09:18 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by markk
yes there will be slight noise, more so when new, as the plates wear in it should be all but silent, if not you have either got the wrong ramp angles in it, or the incorrect pre-load.

I have had four or so of gripper (when Tom had it) and had only one set up wrong.
all the post i have seen on gripper diffs say they are clunky and noisey at low speeds! And gripper them selfs say its how the diff is When i picked it up and before i had a long chat too them about the diff as i wasent shore about them and i was after a quaife but couldent be assed with the wait as they were waiting for bits to be machined they were fully aware of the fact it was going in a road car and told me that it would be noisey but as i dont use the car much im not really bothered Im well pleased with it i think its a great diff and gives me good grip on the road with around 500lb ft!
Old 09-03-2010, 09:23 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by ajamesc
all the post i have seen on gripper diffs say they are clunky and noisey at low speeds! And gripper them selfs say its how the diff is When i picked it up and before i had a long chat too them about the diff as i wasent shore about them and i was after a quaife but couldent be assed with the wait as they were waiting for bits to be machined they were fully aware of the fact it was going in a road car and told me that it would be noisey but as i dont use the car much im not really bothered Im well pleased with it i think its a great diff and gives me good grip on the road with around 500lb ft!

they run rings around the ATB efforts for grip/traction
Old 09-03-2010, 10:37 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Fudgey
Originally Posted by Mike1
If you mean adjust the Viscous Coupling, I think the fact you have to ask would mean 'no' to a DIY rebuild

Someone like Bara or CTS could do it though

also, i just thought...

a std cossie 2wd or 4x4 diff is NOT a viscous diff...!
To be honest I always thought the standard 2wd 7.5" diff and 4x4 7" rear diff were viscous coupling type Limi slip diffs personally but I won't argue with you about it as I can only speak for my own car
Old 09-03-2010, 10:42 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Fudgey

Originally Posted by Mike1
I think your biggest problem may be getting hold of the special silicone gel to go inside the VC once you have cut it open - perhaps Bara or CTS would advise you. I'm not sure where you'd get new seals and uprated nickel plates ( if you wanted more 'locking action' ) from. I'm no expert on this ( Marco Polo might be able to tell you more ) but I've never seen a rebuild manual for a VC.
If you manage to do it let us know though - sounds an interesting project
After you've set all the plates etc I think it then has to be laser welded shut
right, thats the kind of info i was after. so in reply to is it a DIY job, a simple no would have done, would it not?
It would have done I'm sure, I thought you'd appreciate a bit of background info as it seemed you were keen to find out about them

I'll bear your tips on answering posts in mind for the future though.....
Old 10-03-2010, 07:19 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by R5FORD
I was told the quaife ATB was a direct replacmemt. No modifications needed?
ATB fits the standard diff housing, but needs different output shafts as original vc is offset, the ATB is central.
Can be diy built if you have the correct tools and know what you are doing.

Steve

PS Tom is still majority share holder of Gripper
Old 10-03-2010, 07:33 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Mike1
It would have done I'm sure, I thought you'd appreciate a bit of background info as it seemed you were keen to find out about them

I'll bear your tips on answering posts in mind for the future though.....
if you had said that in the first place i wold have been happy, but you didnt.

a reply like 'if you have to ask, then you cant do it' is not helpful to anyone.

how are people supposed to learn things if no one is willing to give any info
Old 10-03-2010, 07:43 PM
  #63  
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u need one of these too to build a stronge 7 1/2 inch diff a shot peened and super finished cwp i had mine done by hewland engineering
Old 10-03-2010, 07:48 PM
  #64  
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andy, what did that cost you?
Old 10-03-2010, 07:52 PM
  #65  
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i gave the guys who did it a drink mate lucky for me a mates dad works there so i got it done for 50 pounds but i think its around 200 at most places that do it
Old 10-03-2010, 07:58 PM
  #66  
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fair play mate. im not far from basingstoke and always working around there, so let me know if they fancy another drink lol
Old 11-03-2010, 07:39 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by steveboyslim
ATB fits the standard diff housing, but needs different output shafts as original vc is offset, the ATB is central.
Can be diy built if you have the correct tools and know what you are doing.

Steve

PS Tom is still majority share holder of Gripper

You can buy the Quaife WITH output flanges - part number is QDF14ZC/S (7˝") .

As has been said, the new Titan VC diff is the one to go for in my opinion - Bara who builds mine was full of praise for the quality of these compared to the Gripper .

The Titan is also a plated style Limited Slip Diff, but rather than using steel on steel plates like most other LSD manufacturers use, they use a coating technology they have called "Sintrak". This coating is revolutionary, as not only are the diffs a lot quieter in action (so are more suited to road cars), they also make the diffs more durable, meaning plate wear and associated pre-load drop-off are kept to a minimum. The coating on the clutch plates also means that more torque is transferred across the axle than a normal steel plated diff (therefore getting more power down to help exiting the corners) - so an improvement in every regard.

Currently the diffs have been used in Caterham R500's, various BMW's for Britcar/old touring cars, Volvo rally cars, Ford Rally Cars (mainly early Escorts). One of the Britcars is running over 600BHP, so should cope okay with most Cossie outputs . Obviously it still uses the OE CWP, so these will still be the weak link like ALL these diffs.

The diffs are also available in various lock-ups, so you can even change it's actuation from a one way to a two way diff (where it locks up on deceleration as well).

I'm impressed enough to be putting one on my own car .
Old 11-03-2010, 07:57 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Fudgey
Originally Posted by Mike1
It would have done I'm sure, I thought you'd appreciate a bit of background info as it seemed you were keen to find out about them

I'll bear your tips on answering posts in mind for the future though.....

if you had said that in the first place i wold have been happy, but you didnt.

a reply like 'if you have to ask, then you cant do it' is not helpful to anyone.

how are people supposed to learn things if no one is willing to give any info
I'd already put the info further up the post if you had taken the time to read through the link. All the info about the Bara diffs is in that post. I too was keen to learn about the different options for the 2wd Sapphire - if you read it you'll notice I asked all the same questions as you.

However, as you were saying you didn't have a Viscous Coupling type (VC) in your standard Sapphire rear casing I assumed you had a different set-up so it would have been irrelevant


Bit more general info on diff types here if anyone wants a read

https://passionford.com/forum/genera...ripper-or.html

Some info on Viscous rebuilds here

https://passionford.com/forum/genera...cous-diff.html

Last edited by Mike1; 11-03-2010 at 08:55 AM.
Old 11-03-2010, 10:14 PM
  #69  
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rainbird, is that titan, as in titan motorsport - where my roller barrels are from?

mike1, my appolgies. i did not see your previous posts!

i just thought you were being a chopsey cunt
Old 11-03-2010, 10:25 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by jb fletch
Jus weld the 2wd one up

Much cheapness & mucho fun !!

jb

Agreed! Not that bad to drive with either. Doesnt stop CWP breaking though And my cossie was less than 400bhp, no doughnuts either, just hard launching.
Old 11-03-2010, 10:36 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Fudgey
also, i just thought...

a std cossie 2wd or 4x4 diff is NOT a viscous diff...!

Yes they are!! all cossie rear diffs 2wd and 4x4 were viscous!
Old 11-03-2010, 10:40 PM
  #72  
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the escort rs turbo uses a viscous diff, ie many plates in a sealed unit, but the cosies dont, do they?

i had the rear cover off my diff but im fooked if i can remember!

i thought they were planet gears?
Old 11-03-2010, 10:46 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Fudgey
the escort rs turbo uses a viscous diff, ie many plates in a sealed unit, but the cosies dont, do they?

i had the rear cover off my diff but im fooked if i can remember!

i thought they were planet gears?
yes they do have planet gears and i had a scrutineer from the stock car crew asking me about it too as he was confused thinking the guys were running lsd,s but when they took the back off the diffs they have planet gears and dont look lsd, i,m sure someone will explain the way it works i havent bothered. i have never stripped one i just throw them away when broken

bara showed me the stuff he uses to do the viscous units...its like the stuff used in silicone tits

my 9" diff is a viscous unit set at 520nm
Old 11-03-2010, 10:58 PM
  #74  
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so what are saying kev? im confused?

an escort RS turbo uses a viscous diff, but a cossie does not?

but your cossie does as it has an uprated 9" lol.
Old 11-03-2010, 11:02 PM
  #75  
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i,m saying all cossies have viscous limited slip rear diffs!!

as standard out of the factory!
Old 12-03-2010, 07:05 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Kevin Sharp
bara showed me the stuff he uses to do the viscous units...its like the stuff used in silicone tits

my 9" diff is a viscous unit set at 520nm

Why did you choose a Viscous coupling Kev? Was it cheaper than other options for the 9" or were there other reasons?
Old 12-03-2010, 08:01 AM
  #77  
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Disregard..

Just spoken to Quaife

Last edited by R5FORD; 12-03-2010 at 08:05 AM.
Old 12-03-2010, 08:48 AM
  #78  
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my quaife diff came with the flanges
Old 12-03-2010, 09:15 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Fudgey
rainbird, is that titan, as in titan motorsport - where my roller barrels are from?
Yes - it's the dog's danglies . Sufficiently so that I am outing the Quaife ATB for one .
Old 12-03-2010, 09:20 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
Yes - it's the dog's danglies . Sufficiently so that I am outing the Quaife ATB for one .

Wow mike just a year too late I would have had one of you, can you send it via DHL


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