quick question
when im in my car if im driving it its ok but if im in traffic or its just ticking over after about 2-4 mins it starts getting hot what could i do to prevent this or is it just 1 of those things
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
fix the issues with your cooling system? 
seriously tho define "hot" as the amount of people that moan about the gauge being near the N or O winds me up,
that N and O are the start of the word NORMAL. it T|hRERES NOTHING FOOKIN WRONG WITH THE TEMPERATURE

seriously tho define "hot" as the amount of people that moan about the gauge being near the N or O winds me up,
that N and O are the start of the word NORMAL. it T|hRERES NOTHING FOOKIN WRONG WITH THE TEMPERATURE
If your car is getting too hot then clearly the fan is not working to cool it down................... or the thermostat is faulty
Just over halfway or abit higher and the fan should cut in, it shouldnt be anywhere near the red
Just over halfway or abit higher and the fan should cut in, it shouldnt be anywhere near the red
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
BM, he has a cut n slash "200bhp" RS Turbo converted car, so dont take it for granted that the cooling system is even fitted correctly let alone up to scratch and fault free
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
an intercooler is for the AIR. you are having problems with the WATER (well, coolant...) teperature
it does have antifreeze in it doesn't it? lol youve highlighted to us many a time at your totallack of car knowledge so it could even be soetihng simple like its not got any coolant in it
it does have antifreeze in it doesn't it? lol youve highlighted to us many a time at your totallack of car knowledge so it could even be soetihng simple like its not got any coolant in it
an intercooler is for the AIR. you are having problems with the WATER (well, coolant...) teperature
it does have antifreeze in it doesn't it? lol youve highlighted to us many a time at your totallack of car knowledge so it could even be soetihng simple like its not got any coolant in it
it does have antifreeze in it doesn't it? lol youve highlighted to us many a time at your totallack of car knowledge so it could even be soetihng simple like its not got any coolant in it


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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
ok as for the "cock" comment.
i stand by what i have said. you have a car with an engine conversion, how do you KNOW everytihng is right with it? i have seen pictures of the thing and i can spot problems and i dont even own the thing!
take a 100% standard car and you can make fairly obvious assumptions which allow you to easily fault find.
take one thats modified, especially with an engine conversion into a different model and you add a number of unknowns. you CANNOT assume that it is all 1) correctly fitted) 2) correctly specced
and YOU definately cant as you havent a fucking clue how any of it works
please take the car to an RS Turbo specialist to have tis problem diagnosed, i GUARANTEE you it will be the most cost effective way of having it resolved.
i stand by what i have said. you have a car with an engine conversion, how do you KNOW everytihng is right with it? i have seen pictures of the thing and i can spot problems and i dont even own the thing!
take a 100% standard car and you can make fairly obvious assumptions which allow you to easily fault find.
take one thats modified, especially with an engine conversion into a different model and you add a number of unknowns. you CANNOT assume that it is all 1) correctly fitted) 2) correctly specced
and YOU definately cant as you havent a fucking clue how any of it works

please take the car to an RS Turbo specialist to have tis problem diagnosed, i GUARANTEE you it will be the most cost effective way of having it resolved.
As said above, if the needle is at "2 o'clock" then this is normal, mine runs at that and always has, i dont have a vented bonnet so have put it down to that, when driving it will drop abit but is rarely below half way after 10 mins of driving tbh. you could fit a manual switch to the fan, you just literally just splice into the loom off the fan wires and put a switch somewhere on your dash.
or fit a new thermostat and fan switch. they are known to work intermittently when they get worn.
or fit a new thermostat and fan switch. they are known to work intermittently when they get worn.
ok as for the "cock" comment.
i stand by what i have said. you have a car with an engine conversion, how do you KNOW everytihng is right with it? i have seen pictures of the thing and i can spot problems and i dont even own the thing!
take a 100% standard car and you can make fairly obvious assumptions which allow you to easily fault find.
take one thats modified, especially with an engine conversion into a different model and you add a number of unknowns. you CANNOT assume that it is all 1) correctly fitted) 2) correctly specced
and YOU definately cant as you havent a fucking clue how any of it works
please take the car to an RS Turbo specialist to have tis problem diagnosed, i GUARANTEE you it will be the most cost effective way of having it resolved.
i stand by what i have said. you have a car with an engine conversion, how do you KNOW everytihng is right with it? i have seen pictures of the thing and i can spot problems and i dont even own the thing!
take a 100% standard car and you can make fairly obvious assumptions which allow you to easily fault find.
take one thats modified, especially with an engine conversion into a different model and you add a number of unknowns. you CANNOT assume that it is all 1) correctly fitted) 2) correctly specced
and YOU definately cant as you havent a fucking clue how any of it works

please take the car to an RS Turbo specialist to have tis problem diagnosed, i GUARANTEE you it will be the most cost effective way of having it resolved.
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From: Ramsgate, Kent Drives: E39 530D Touring
oh and also IF the car was standard i would say:
the most PROBABLY cause (and most sensible approach) would be either a blockage in the cooling system, a leak in the coolant system, a faulty therostat, or a faulty coolant tank cap.
check the whole things for leaks, replace the thermostat (pennies and a service item) replace the cap (pennies and a service item) and flush the entire cooling system with a hose both back and forward.
all of that that will be easy for anyone with no mechanical knowledge, cost pennies, and eliminate some of the really easy/obvious bits
the most PROBABLY cause (and most sensible approach) would be either a blockage in the cooling system, a leak in the coolant system, a faulty therostat, or a faulty coolant tank cap.
check the whole things for leaks, replace the thermostat (pennies and a service item) replace the cap (pennies and a service item) and flush the entire cooling system with a hose both back and forward.
all of that that will be easy for anyone with no mechanical knowledge, cost pennies, and eliminate some of the really easy/obvious bits
I never understand why people go through all the hard stuff/expensive stuff then not add another Ł50-Ł70 on some decent gauges. I don't trust my temperature gauge as far as I can throw it thus have my own plumbed in. Does the fan kick in at all? Radiator functioning properly? system fully bled (don't know if it is self bleeding or not)? Sticky stat? Decent mix of antifreeze to water is often overlooked.
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