my abs light is on my 3 door. its on from when i turn the ignition on and never goes out.
how do these work?? should they come on for a few seconds then go out? does the car need to be started or just the ignition on for them to go out?

i've done this test and all my readings are between 1058 and 1060. i've also bridged the wire across on the reservoir cap.

what elso can i try??

Wheel Speed Sensor Circuits

1. Ensure ignition switched off
2. Disconnect ECU multi-plug
3. Connect ohmmeter between harness multi-plug terminals listed below:
o LHF: 7 and 25
o RHF: 5 and 23
o LHR: 4 and 22
o RHR: 6 and 24
4. Resistance should be 900 to 1400 ohms
5. If resistance not as specified:
o Disconnect the appropriate wheel sensor from the car loom.
o Measure resistance across wheel sensor at plug on end of sensor.
o If outside above range, replace wheel sensor.
o If OK, check wiring between sensor connection and ECU.

Checking the Low Brake Fluid in Reservoir Warning

1. Remove the 2 pin connector from the brake fluid level reservoir. Ignore the 3 pin connector.
2. Without removing the reservoir cap, check for continuity across the 2 connector terminals on the cap. Lack of continuity across these terminals indicates low brake fluid, and disables the ABS.
3. If no continuity, top up reservoir with brake fluid as required. If fluid level OK but no continuity, buy a new cap. As a short term measure to diagnose reservoir cap failure, bridge the terminals of the wiring loom connector that fits to the cap with a short piece of wire and test drive.

 

the 3 door lights are just slightly different to the rest of the range, just so that you are aware

 

in what way mate?

 

The yellow light will go out when the ABS ECU is satisfied all its inputs are within tolerances.

The steps you've taken so far are good - saves me re-typing them.

Does the pump motor run?

Does the pump motor stop when the fluid level drops to 'max'?

Is the fuse to the green ABS relay blown?

 

the 3 doors have 2 led's rather than one bulb and i've know them to play up for other reasons than the abs being at fault

with a bulb you just replace the bulb if it blows, but i'm sure osmeone else will back me up on some fella who posted something similer here years ago and it was something to do with the led that had caused the fault rather than the abs being up the spout

on the other hand, it's normally a sensor so put a probe aginst the 2 wires onthe plug and see what the resistance is, should be around the 1100 ohms mark and the dodgy one will show up as way out of this sort of range

 

yes the pump runs fine. pumps up then stops when the pressure is up.
i'll check the fluid level when pump is fully primed. but i have bridged the wire across to by pass that.
i will also check the green relay fuse and update you.

thanks for the info

 

just checked it mate and the
fluid level is on the max line when the pump stops

is the green fuse you on about near the abs ecu? if so thats fine.

 

the sensor seem to be fine my readings are 1058 to 1060 on all 4 sensors.
is there away of testing the bulb or can i put a multimeter on the plug to see if the bulb is faulty?

 

might need to plug it into the fault code reader than mate, the led's are different ot the bulb which is why it's nor simple

 

Most multimeters have a diode testing function which can test LEDs. Set the dial to the diode symbol.

Or, set the range on your meter to <20VDC (2VDC if yours has it). Connect the red probe to the positive side of the LED, and the black probe to the negative side of the LED.

If the LED's OK, you should get around 1.8VDC, or it may light up.

The Sierra ABS unit doesn't transmit fault codes to readers.

 

my meter has acv, ohm,dca,dcv also has diode a symbol.
so do i need to remove the led and test it or can i just unplug the conncetion and put the meter on the 2 conncetors?

 

Bump for wongrs