Tiling onto Chipboard help please!!!!
07-12-2004, 10:59 PM
#1
Tiling onto Chipboard help please!!!!
We are about to lay Travertine (similar in essence to Granite) Tiles in our hall. The subfloor is new P5 Chipboard.
Can the tiles RELIABLY and DURABLY be laid onto Chipboard??
We figured that we should PVA the area first, but aren't entirely sure of the implications, if any, of tiling onto Chipboard.
Ta in advance.
Can the tiles RELIABLY and DURABLY be laid onto Chipboard??
We figured that we should PVA the area first, but aren't entirely sure of the implications, if any, of tiling onto Chipboard.
Ta in advance.
07-12-2004, 11:03 PM
#2
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is the floor a suspended floor? or concrete?
sounds like its suspended or you wouldnt need the chipboard, or is this for future purposes incase it needs to come up?
i presume "traventine" is a solid non flexible tile?
sounds like its suspended or you wouldnt need the chipboard, or is this for future purposes incase it needs to come up?
i presume "traventine" is a solid non flexible tile?
07-12-2004, 11:06 PM
#3
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dunno but id like to know similar!!
im actually tiling now!! lol
ive put 3/4mm ply down on the floor of my bathroom and pva coated it... got the flexi wood floor adhesive and hopefully all be well!!????
ive been warned about ensuring they are 100% level etc though.... which is concerning me a tad and making me put off doign the floor. not sure how to ensure this though?
anyone got any tiling tips for us sad bastids?! lol
im actually tiling now!! lol
ive put 3/4mm ply down on the floor of my bathroom and pva coated it... got the flexi wood floor adhesive and hopefully all be well!!????
ive been warned about ensuring they are 100% level etc though.... which is concerning me a tad and making me put off doign the floor. not sure how to ensure this though?
anyone got any tiling tips for us sad bastids?! lol
08-12-2004, 07:50 PM
#4
Its a suspended floor.
As I said above, Travertine is similar to Granite. Its a natural stone.
I am hoping that we can tile onto the Chipboard as if we have to add another layer before the tiles, the height will be different to the adjacent rooms. However, its alot of money to spend on tiles to not do it right.
Any more help??
As I said above, Travertine is similar to Granite. Its a natural stone.
I am hoping that we can tile onto the Chipboard as if we have to add another layer before the tiles, the height will be different to the adjacent rooms. However, its alot of money to spend on tiles to not do it right.
Any more help??
08-12-2004, 08:08 PM
#5
It Wasnt Me!
Nail the chipboard (im assuming u mean that thin wood board? lol) every half an inch im sure it is ALL over it, timestaking and back killing but it stops the tiles cracking/moving and the grout cracking too. 
08-12-2004, 08:29 PM
#7
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you should realy use 8mm ply before laying tiles to the floor as 4mm is ok for putting cusion floor or vynl on but you wil find to much movement usualy with just 4mm ply below tiles...hth
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08-12-2004, 08:35 PM
#8
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my 4mm ply has about 500 screws holding it down, people said it would be ok tilign straight to floor boards underneath - but i just went for 4mm as didnt want too high a step
hopefully itll keep
hopefully itll keep
08-12-2004, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by toolski
you should realy use 8mm ply before laying tiles to the floor as 4mm is ok for putting cusion floor or vynl on but you wil find to much movement usualy with just 4mm ply below tiles...hth
08-12-2004, 09:34 PM
#11
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A professional tiler has just finished our bathroom and although the chipboard floor has been down for 13 years without a squeek, he put in loads more screws, then laid 4mm ply over the whole area with screws every 4 inches or so.
He didn't bother PVAing the ply (unless he had that done before he brought it here and cut to size), and used some tile fix that went off in just a few hours so the floor was laid and grouted in one (long) shift.
He didn't bother PVAing the ply (unless he had that done before he brought it here and cut to size), and used some tile fix that went off in just a few hours so the floor was laid and grouted in one (long) shift.
08-12-2004, 10:09 PM
#12
OK, so if we lay 4mm or 8mm Ply and tile onto that (the tiles are 10mm or 12mm thick) we will end up with a fairly substantial step in the doorways of the adjacent rooms wont we?? Or can you get a Tile to Carpet door bars that account for that??
08-12-2004, 11:14 PM
#13
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heres the info!
* makes ure its chipboard, not hardboard...hardboard wont work as the moisture of the adhesive will sink straight through
*Make sure the chipboard is screwed down ecer 300mm
*make sure there is NO MOVEMENT, any movement will result in cracked tiles
*use a PROPER flexible adhesive, i would recommmend BAL Fastflex- a 2 part adhesive, expensive (£50ish) and that will only do about 3-4m2 on a good day.
*before you lay em, impregnate them with a marble impregnator,makes grouting alot easier. A company called HG or Hagesan make this gear, its the dogs.
*Lay the tiles!
*Buy a suitable flexible grout, dont skimp here, flexible grout allows the floor to "move" so to speak, meaning you wont get fecked up grout!
*grout-into the joint to put the grout in, and 45 degrees to take the excess off
*use an emulsifying pad (like plastic wire wool thingy!) to clean the grout off, and finally wipe the lot over with a nice, semi wet, but as dry as you poss sponge.
theres no need to overly the floor you got as long as:
*it is actually chipboard
*it is actually un-movable i.e no flex at all
*you use the proper gear!
hope that helps mate, any more questions just give us a shout, worked in a tile specialist shop for over a year, so vaguely know me shizzle!
* makes ure its chipboard, not hardboard...hardboard wont work as the moisture of the adhesive will sink straight through
*Make sure the chipboard is screwed down ecer 300mm
*make sure there is NO MOVEMENT, any movement will result in cracked tiles
*use a PROPER flexible adhesive, i would recommmend BAL Fastflex- a 2 part adhesive, expensive (£50ish) and that will only do about 3-4m2 on a good day.
*before you lay em, impregnate them with a marble impregnator,makes grouting alot easier. A company called HG or Hagesan make this gear, its the dogs.
*Lay the tiles!
*Buy a suitable flexible grout, dont skimp here, flexible grout allows the floor to "move" so to speak, meaning you wont get fecked up grout!
*grout-into the joint to put the grout in, and 45 degrees to take the excess off
*use an emulsifying pad (like plastic wire wool thingy!) to clean the grout off, and finally wipe the lot over with a nice, semi wet, but as dry as you poss sponge.
theres no need to overly the floor you got as long as:
*it is actually chipboard
*it is actually un-movable i.e no flex at all
*you use the proper gear!
hope that helps mate, any more questions just give us a shout, worked in a tile specialist shop for over a year, so vaguely know me shizzle!
10-12-2004, 06:27 PM
#15
Thanks for that.
Here is exactly what we have.......
A suspended timber subfloor (suspended on bricks) using 75x50mm Timber. We then used 18mm Good quality P5 Chipboard. I can screw it as often as needed, I have PLENTY of chipboard screws!!
It's a hallway, so is only 3ft wide. I wouldn't imagine there to be much scope for movement over such a narrow width. I was planning to PVA the floor first, then use some kind of Tile Adhesive that is right for Wood floors (will probably go with the above recommendation - thanks!!).
That sound like a plan??
Here is exactly what we have.......
A suspended timber subfloor (suspended on bricks) using 75x50mm Timber. We then used 18mm Good quality P5 Chipboard. I can screw it as often as needed, I have PLENTY of chipboard screws!!
It's a hallway, so is only 3ft wide. I wouldn't imagine there to be much scope for movement over such a narrow width. I was planning to PVA the floor first, then use some kind of Tile Adhesive that is right for Wood floors (will probably go with the above recommendation - thanks!!).That sound like a plan??
10-12-2004, 06:57 PM
#16
Part of the Furniture
Originally Posted by croakey
heres the info!
* makes ure its chipboard, not hardboard...hardboard wont work as the moisture of the adhesive will sink straight through
*Make sure the chipboard is screwed down ecer 300mm
*make sure there is NO MOVEMENT, any movement will result in cracked tiles
*use a PROPER flexible adhesive, i would recommmend BAL Fastflex- a 2 part adhesive, expensive (£50ish) and that will only do about 3-4m2 on a good day.
*before you lay em, impregnate them with a marble impregnator,makes grouting alot easier. A company called HG or Hagesan make this gear, its the dogs.
*Lay the tiles!
*Buy a suitable flexible grout, dont skimp here, flexible grout allows the floor to "move" so to speak, meaning you wont get fecked up grout!
*grout-into the joint to put the grout in, and 45 degrees to take the excess off
*use an emulsifying pad (like plastic wire wool thingy!) to clean the grout off, and finally wipe the lot over with a nice, semi wet, but as dry as you poss sponge.
theres no need to overly the floor you got as long as:
*it is actually chipboard
*it is actually un-movable i.e no flex at all
*you use the proper gear!
hope that helps mate, any more questions just give us a shout, worked in a tile specialist shop for over a year, so vaguely know me shizzle!
* makes ure its chipboard, not hardboard...hardboard wont work as the moisture of the adhesive will sink straight through
*Make sure the chipboard is screwed down ecer 300mm
*make sure there is NO MOVEMENT, any movement will result in cracked tiles
*use a PROPER flexible adhesive, i would recommmend BAL Fastflex- a 2 part adhesive, expensive (£50ish) and that will only do about 3-4m2 on a good day.
*before you lay em, impregnate them with a marble impregnator,makes grouting alot easier. A company called HG or Hagesan make this gear, its the dogs.
*Lay the tiles!
*Buy a suitable flexible grout, dont skimp here, flexible grout allows the floor to "move" so to speak, meaning you wont get fecked up grout!
*grout-into the joint to put the grout in, and 45 degrees to take the excess off
*use an emulsifying pad (like plastic wire wool thingy!) to clean the grout off, and finally wipe the lot over with a nice, semi wet, but as dry as you poss sponge.
theres no need to overly the floor you got as long as:
*it is actually chipboard
*it is actually un-movable i.e no flex at all
*you use the proper gear!
hope that helps mate, any more questions just give us a shout, worked in a tile specialist shop for over a year, so vaguely know me shizzle!
11-12-2004, 08:43 AM
#17
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
ive just tiled my kitchen and utility floor onto chipboard, the chipboard all had to be replaced as it had got damp over the years, then we pva'ed the new stuff, made sure there was as little movement as possible then tiled using a flexible adhesive and grout. even though you cant take all the movement out of a chipboard floor once the tiles are down its solid with no mevement and we have not had any problems so far, if i do i will just tile over the existing tiles, job done.
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