coswurv

iTrader: (8)

Following on from my dilemma thread, if i am to repair the car i would like to know for sure that if the little end in the top of the rod is worn i can have that replaced and machined to work again, but if the play is in the pin and piston i take it that is a failed part and will need replacing ?

-beefy-

iTrader: (6)

i very much doubt the wear will be between the gudgeon pin and the piston itself fella,

the little end will wear a whloe lot quicker than the alloy of the piston ,


beef

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

i hope so beef, the reason i ask is i had a rst years ago and that wore the piston and had play in that area, but then rst pistons are pressed in pin so the piston takes all the movement and wear i suppose. So hopefully i might get away with just new little ends in the rods and a bottom end freshen up , she might fight another day yet then mate.

-beefy-

iTrader: (6)

deffo fella,

yeah there not he same as the rst , its 99% the little ends,

matt lewis is your man for all your bits,

like you said in the other post paul, if it aint smoking or rattling ,

its not worth busting a nice car over ,

beef

BigErn

Just got home Paul, couldnt text back cos I get no signal in Asda. Dont bust it dude, it an easy fix thats for certain and you will regret it if you do

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

Its a horrible noise ian sits there and ticks over sweet but catch it on the revs wrong and it sounds a little like big end, if its under load no noise at all through the rev range, strange one but i spose if i do decide to repair i will soon find out whats wrong with it, if it was big ends i wouldnt have any oil pressure and it would knock higher up the rev range i would of thought going by previous failures on other cars ive had ?

BigErn

Get the engine stripped sooner rather than later. Find out what it is and replace it, quick freshen up and shes ready for the summer again. You know I talk sense

TiB

iTrader: (1)

Is the noise there when cold or warm?

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

used to be more so when cold then pretty much go away but has been getting louder when warm for a while but yesterday it was that bad i had to stop driving it so something has given up or starting to

TiB

iTrader: (1)

I would say its a piston to bore clearence issue then.

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

if you heard the noise mate it sounds nothing like that, its a fainter knock rather than a harsh big end

TiB

iTrader: (1)

Little ends dont really make any noise... i'll still put money on piston to bore clearance issue.

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

so you think its just worn pistons rattling about in the bore where the bore has oversized due to wear, i'll let you know when i take them out, but when i replaced the head gasket a year ago there was little if any movement in the pistons when i tried moving them so this is why i ruled that one out, but you coule be right we'll see mate.

pa_sjo

coswurv- are you able to measure 0.002" by touch?

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

Lol come on mate you know a worn bore when you see one if thi shad 0.002 wear it wouldnt make the noise its making now i assure you

brad

I allways thought big and small ends would knock all the time ? never had any go quiet once theyre worn or under certain loads ! does sound more like piston slap if its been heat effected .
may sound daft but have you checked your bottom pully is tight?

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

i havnt mate but the noise is coming from the back end of the engine if you lean over when revving it

pa_sjo

No but 0.004" might.. can you measure that? If you can see/feel a worn bore, then it's DEFINATELY fucked!

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

yep indeed it will be but we wont know till i remove them, which i may do this afternoon

Turbosystems

iTrader: (5)

problems I have seen over the years relating to strange knocking noises.
1] piston skirt clearances too great
2] slight piston detonation damage
3] oils surge causing number 4 big end bearing to run out
4] valve collision causing slightly bent con rod
5] pistons fitted the wrong way round
6] old type centre line gudgeon pin pistons installed and just worn along with the bore
7] wrong piston the head clearance

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

when i take it apart later tony i'll post some pics up, thats if i find anything which i hope i do as i want this sorted.

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

Well i think it must be no 3 in your list Tony, as ive found this after further inspection, i could of swore it didnt sound like big end, if you just played with the throttle you could get it to knock. I havnt found anything else yet pistins look ok and the bore still has honing marks and no lip at the top of the bore but im still going to get it measured just to be sure.




The big ends are on .5 bearings i take it by the look of no4 it will need a grind, how far can i go is it up to 1mm ?

BigErn

See Paul, nowt to it mate.

First time you bring it on ful boost and go sideways you will love it again


And yeah, my crank out of the other Sapph was 1mm so .75 grind should sort you out with still one left to go .

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

Just dont know why it done it as always full of oil, plus all mains and 1 - 3 big ends are like new ?, one thing i did notice is that it runs less oil pressure than the yb escort, but then the saph had an oil cooler on it so im thinking this is where it could be losing some presure, plus i think that might have something to do with the oil starvation if thats what did cause it

BigErn

IME mate its always number 4 bearing that goes first, same as RIW when I did that. Others were fine but 4 was showing very slight traces of copper in the shell. Check your oil pump while its apart too, maybe thats scored and oil pressure is low because of it.

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

no 4 is more than scored ian the bearing shells look melted and smudged, i dont think they span though as the little locating lugs on the shells where still intact plus it only knocked when you caught it right, i take an engine with spun shells would knock like fuck even on tickover ?

BigErn

Ive seen one with number 4 like yours before and the rest ok, clean your pickup pipe and check your oil pump while its in bits. May save you doing it all again soon

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

well im gonna have a think about whether to repair it or not as the bores are mint no wear and still have the honing marks but i think there is to much play between cylinder and pistons so could need a new set of them then the expense spirals , i think ill run it over a friends machine shop and have it measured and see what it'll cost for a grind

BigErn

Dont you dare break it Mr or me and you will fall out

coswurv

iTrader: (8)

depends what the cost of the repair is ian, by the looks of it i have found the problem lol, i think that was where my knock was coming from so hopefully pistons etc are ok so just new rings,

BigErn

new rings, crank grind, set of shells, arp rod bolts and CHECK YOUR OIL PUMP.

markk

iTrader: (2)

BigErn

Markk