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Best way of painting over gloss?

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Old 11-02-2009 | 12:52 PM
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Default Best way of painting over gloss?

Doing the hallway, its been glossed 8mths ago, but weve had dado fitted so it now all needs redoing as its obviously faded already.

BUT i want to do it in satin finish as i hate the shine of gloss and how quickly it yellows, so my question is what do i need to do to prepare the surfaces to be painted? There are no doors as theyre all dipped and waxed, just the door frames and skirting boards, which is a grand total of 8 doors and about 28mtrs of skirting

Going to get paint tonight but want to get it prepped before weekend ready for painting

Thanks

Sarah
Old 11-02-2009 | 12:55 PM
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Best you get PLENTY of sandpaper. Get that green stuff that doesn't clog as much.
Old 11-02-2009 | 12:58 PM
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as dan said above...get the green sandpaper and dont be so lazy....get stripping
Old 11-02-2009 | 01:06 PM
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my dad tried stripping it a few years back, did about 2mtrs then gave up, plus the skirting is really dark wood and the doors are a lovely colour so wouldnt look right, i dont want to spend 4 weeks stripping to paint over it again

Is it just a case of giving it a good rub down and hey presto? got some of that sandpaper already
Old 11-02-2009 | 01:09 PM
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Just need to key the surface so as to make the new paint "grip".

As long as you get 70% of the shine of the gloss with the paper the undercoat will stick then satin gloss away.
Old 11-02-2009 | 01:13 PM
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thanks, will make sure i stock up tonight at Focus
Old 11-02-2009 | 01:15 PM
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give the woodwork a good rub down, then put two coats of oil based satinwood on

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Old 11-02-2009 | 01:17 PM
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When I done my house, I got the old fella to do it as painting & decorating was his business. I believe he used a small sander to take the paint back, undercoated, and then painted again (gloss). Now I know he used good paint quality paint brushes as not to keep picking hairs out of the paint and used a non drip gloss.

Do not use a drill with a sanding disc on whatever you do!
Old 11-02-2009 | 02:02 PM
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im doing it by hand and really not keen on gloss anyway so will be doing it satin or eggshell (?) Will have a look when im in Focus tonight.

Thanks for the advice
Old 11-02-2009 | 03:18 PM
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I wud sand it back, give it a rud down wiv damp cloth to remove all dust and undercoat it
Old 11-02-2009 | 03:40 PM
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why do i need to undercoat it as well if its already got paint on?
Old 11-02-2009 | 04:07 PM
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Will give it a better finish and will stop reactions if it decides to do it
Old 11-02-2009 | 05:31 PM
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Its defo better to put a undercoat on first, not for as captain says above " stopping reactions", but as to give it more body and it will adhere better to the flattened gloss.
So in order
Sand woodwork down with 180, i prefer grey paper
Dust it down
Wipe woodwork down with a rag and white spirit to remove any grease/oil
Apply one undercoat
Apply topcoat of either satin or eggshell ( eggshell has a bit more sheen to it and makes it a bit more wipeable)
Old 11-02-2009 | 05:36 PM
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id give it a quick rub over with 100 grit to give it a key then repaint as you want although im a joiner not a painter.
Old 11-02-2009 | 05:49 PM
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you might aswell just use a wirebrush if your going to use 100 grit paper
do as above and you wont go far wrong.
i'm a decorater
Old 11-02-2009 | 05:58 PM
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the correct finish for satinwood is two top coats of satin
just give it a rub down dust it off and wipe it with a lint free rag with some spirit on
wait ten minutes and away you go
if the gloss is solid you will get a far better finish with two coats of satin than one undercoat and one satin
i am a decorator as well 24 years in the trade
http://www.icipaints.co.uk/products/..._satinwood.jsp

Last edited by 220tel; 11-02-2009 at 06:01 PM.
Old 11-02-2009 | 05:59 PM
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in all the sites ive worked on in the last 20 years ive never seen painters with anything finer that 120. the few that do actually rub down mainly use 100 that i see. usually the white squares for sanding down the ames taping.
even when i was doing french polishing 240 was the general use stuff on the bars we were making/polishing.
you must be one of the fancy ones that hang paper as well as you call yourself a decorator and not just a painter.

Last edited by fuzzy; 11-02-2009 at 06:06 PM.
Old 11-02-2009 | 06:13 PM
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Thats if his gloss is solid, what me and you can do is different to what a DIY'er can do
Plus i still stand by putting an undercoat on as it adheres much better to the flattened gloss. most of the jobs we come across where the paint is flaking in thin layers is because its just been topped and not undercoated in the first place along with not being prepped correctley in the first place.
But hey you have been doing it 2 years more than me, lol
Originally Posted by 220tel
the correct finish for satinwood is two top coats of satin
just give it a rub down dust it off and wipe it with a lint free rag with some spirit on
wait ten minutes and away you go
if the gloss is solid you will get a far better finish with two coats of satin than one undercoat and one satin
i am a decorator as well 24 years in the trade
http://www.icipaints.co.uk/products/..._satinwood.jsp
Old 11-02-2009 | 06:18 PM
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Yes i do hang paper and do all the special finishes, 80 grit is good for really old woodwork yes, but is a bit harsh for finishing work
120 grey or 180 grey ( as i prefer for gloss ) is much better
the grey im on about is the same white you are on about.


Originally Posted by fuzzy
in all the sites ive worked on in the last 20 years ive never seen painters with anything finer that 120. the few that do actually rub down mainly use 100 that i see. usually the white squares for sanding down the ames taping.
even when i was doing french polishing 240 was the general use stuff on the bars we were making/polishing.
you must be one of the fancy ones that hang paper as well as you call yourself a decorator and not just a painter.
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