FAO PF Plumbers/Heating people......
#1
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From: Norfolk
FAO PF Plumbers/Heating people......
We have a Jaga Strada low H20 radiator in our bedroom, that isn't really hot enough. It is fitted with a Jaga Deco Pro valve as seen in this link.....
http://www.theradiatorfactory.com/pr...1&IMID=1&SET=0
Obviously it has a normal thermostat, but what I am wondering is whether there is any adjustment that can be made beyond that to increase the heat output? You can open/close the lockshield on the other end can't you to some effect? Does that apply with this kind of valve?
We sized the rad ourselves, but using recommended guidelines for heat output and wouldn't have got it so far wrong, infact all the other rads that we spec'd are pretty good, but this one is on full chat and the bedroom is foooking cold!
http://www.theradiatorfactory.com/pr...1&IMID=1&SET=0
Obviously it has a normal thermostat, but what I am wondering is whether there is any adjustment that can be made beyond that to increase the heat output? You can open/close the lockshield on the other end can't you to some effect? Does that apply with this kind of valve?
We sized the rad ourselves, but using recommended guidelines for heat output and wouldn't have got it so far wrong, infact all the other rads that we spec'd are pretty good, but this one is on full chat and the bedroom is foooking cold!
#3
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From: Norfolk
http://www.theradiatorfactory.com/pr...1&IMID=1&SET=0
If not, go to....
http://www.theradiatorfactory.com/Default.aspx
Then....
Energy Savers
Connection Accessories
Valves
Jaga Pro Valve
If not, go to....
http://www.theradiatorfactory.com/Default.aspx
Then....
Energy Savers
Connection Accessories
Valves
Jaga Pro Valve
#5
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From: Norfolk
No, not very to touch atall, but it's not a conventional steel radiator.
Go to the link.....
http://www.theradiatorfactory.com/Default.aspx
Then....
Energy Savers
Strada
It is a bit like a heat exchanger, but they are supposed to be very good. Even if you put your hand above the grille on the top, it is just mildly warm.
Go to the link.....
http://www.theradiatorfactory.com/Default.aspx
Then....
Energy Savers
Strada
It is a bit like a heat exchanger, but they are supposed to be very good. Even if you put your hand above the grille on the top, it is just mildly warm.
#6
The return (lockshield) setting will be under the lower nut on the valve.
It looks like it's flow and return into the same end, with a mixing section between the 2 to lower the water temperature.
http://www.theradiatorfactory.com/pr...1&IMID=1&SET=0
.
It looks like it's flow and return into the same end, with a mixing section between the 2 to lower the water temperature.
http://www.theradiatorfactory.com/pr...1&IMID=1&SET=0
.
Last edited by focusv8; 11-01-2009 at 08:29 PM.
#7
No, not very to touch atall, but it's not a conventional steel radiator.
Go to the link.....
http://www.theradiatorfactory.com/Default.aspx
Then....
Energy Savers
Strada
It is a bit like a heat exchanger, but they are supposed to be very good. Even if you put your hand above the grille on the top, it is just mildly warm.
Go to the link.....
http://www.theradiatorfactory.com/Default.aspx
Then....
Energy Savers
Strada
It is a bit like a heat exchanger, but they are supposed to be very good. Even if you put your hand above the grille on the top, it is just mildly warm.
How hot does it get when all the other rads are off ? If youve tried that?
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#8
Lee, stick to talking about bricks...
On a seperate note Christian, you should hopefuly not recieve any more messeges on MSN as hopefully I have sorted it. If not, let me know please.
On a seperate note Christian, you should hopefuly not recieve any more messeges on MSN as hopefully I have sorted it. If not, let me know please.
#9
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From: thurso far far north of scotland
has the rad ever been hot and has only just started not gettin cold or done this since new if it has worked in past head could be fooked or pin in valve is stuck and just needs moving bacwards to free it up if its never worked try feeling which pipeis hottest when turning heating on from cold and see if valve is on corect side the valve might be a one way flow valve and be on wrong side or it might need adjusting to flow other way or valve could just be fooked! also turn off lock shield and open bleeder at top off rad and run the water into a cup or jug for a while see if hot comes through if no water comes threw and pin is free then valve is fooked or pipe is blocked.also try same on other side thermostat off an lock shield open see if you get hot or nothing then you will know!hope this helps
#10
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From: Norfolk
It's never been that great to be honest. We have other Jaga radiators (albeit not Low H20 ones) and they are STONKING, so I'd be surprised if this one was so crap.
With a conventional rad, what effect does opening/closing the lockshield (on the opposite end to the thermostat) have? You can effectively shift the heat output scale of the radiator up/down beyond the range of the thermostat by altering this, can't you?
With a conventional rad, what effect does opening/closing the lockshield (on the opposite end to the thermostat) have? You can effectively shift the heat output scale of the radiator up/down beyond the range of the thermostat by altering this, can't you?
#11
Originally Posted by Christian and Beccy
You can effectively shift the heat output scale of the radiator up/down beyond the range of the thermostat by altering this, can't you?
The lockshield is there solely for balancing the WHOLE system.
Rads. furthest as in length of pipe, from boiler / pump, lockshield wide open, closest to boiler / pump lockshield almost closed, the others set half way.
Set the other valve whether thermostatic or not to max open.
Then adjust each one to get the required maximum temperature in each room.
Every time you touch one lockshield it affects the remainder, so you might have to go around again.
This assumes the boiler, pump and rads are all sized correctly for the maximum temp you require at the Minimum outside temp you expect to see.
I doubt if many installations done in the last 10 years are sized to cope with minus 10 outside.
The commercial systems I look after are generally only good to 0 outside for prolonged periods or -5 for a day or 2 at a time.
It doesn't make financial sense to have a system that's specified for weather we only get a few days a year.
Guess what happened last week.
.
Last edited by focusv8; 12-01-2009 at 05:35 PM.
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