Gaz Coilover problems.
10-01-2009, 07:09 PM
#41
No, but regardless of what height you set it to, the shocks need some upwards travel, otherwise every humpback bridge you go over, you'd go airborne.
Mine has none, so, when I bounce it, on the return part of the bounce its hitting the top stop. Whether the spring goes loose when you jack the car up isn't really a criteria to judge it on, but does happen.
Mine has none, so, when I bounce it, on the return part of the bounce its hitting the top stop. Whether the spring goes loose when you jack the car up isn't really a criteria to judge it on, but does happen.
10-01-2009, 07:22 PM
#42
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my Gaz coilies knocked on the rar of my mk3.5 Si 2.0 fiesta, i never got to the bottom of it though, was really wierd. i thought it was something to do with the top of the coilover where the spring sits in.
as i say though never actually got to the bottom of it
as i say though never actually got to the bottom of it
10-01-2009, 07:35 PM
#44
ive got the normal gax coilovers with 300lbs springs on the rear and found that they didnt raise the car enough so i sent them back to them to get them extended which they done 
now having them on lower setting for road use, when the shock opens up, the spring is loose so on big bumps there is a clonk when going over bumps on road.
if i turn the damping knob around 3 full turns, it doesnt bounce as much and stopped the shock opening up too easily. Obviously youll loose a bit of ride comfort but nothing you can do christian.
try do what tim said tho, should keep the spring tighter in there and sort out the prob.
IF you still not happy, just call Gaz and they will sort it for you
now having them on lower setting for road use, when the shock opens up, the spring is loose so on big bumps there is a clonk when going over bumps on road.
if i turn the damping knob around 3 full turns, it doesnt bounce as much and stopped the shock opening up too easily. Obviously youll loose a bit of ride comfort but nothing you can do christian.
try do what tim said tho, should keep the spring tighter in there and sort out the prob.
IF you still not happy, just call Gaz and they will sort it for you
10-01-2009, 07:44 PM
#45
i think its due to the fact that most chavs dont run them anywhere near std height..."slam em bruv"
and if they make the shocks to suit these people the piston has to be quite short or it would bottom out when they run them at -100mm lol, so maybe you do need longer pistons
and if they make the shocks to suit these people the piston has to be quite short or it would bottom out when they run them at -100mm lol, so maybe you do need longer pistons
10-01-2009, 07:58 PM
#46
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No, but regardless of what height you set it to, the shocks need some upwards travel, otherwise every humpback bridge you go over, you'd go airborne.
Mine has none, so, when I bounce it, on the return part of the bounce its hitting the top stop. Whether the spring goes loose when you jack the car up isn't really a criteria to judge it on, but does happen.
Mine has none, so, when I bounce it, on the return part of the bounce its hitting the top stop. Whether the spring goes loose when you jack the car up isn't really a criteria to judge it on, but does happen.
if you go on track, with the front springs being softer,
do you think as the rear shocks are topped out most of the time,
when you corner hard it will start lifting the inside rear wheel?
10-01-2009, 08:45 PM
#49
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If there is no droop when you jack the car up. The dampers are too short and you will not get any more ride hight out of them.
They will need to go back to GAZ for longer units.
They will need to go back to GAZ for longer units.
10-01-2009, 11:20 PM
#50
It's all irrelevant isn't it? If the shocks have no 'droop' then they are wrong, aren't they? Simple as. It is not uncommon for springs to be loose when the car is drooped, but of course this 'slack' is taken up once you put the weight on them.
I am kinda happy with the height of the car, would prefer it a little higher, but if I jack it up, 2 pumps on the trolley jack and the wheel is off the ground.
I am kinda happy with the height of the car, would prefer it a little higher, but if I jack it up, 2 pumps on the trolley jack and the wheel is off the ground.
11-01-2009, 03:18 PM
#52
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Tim: That's interesting...as i've been told the exact opposite lol! So what split do you run on yours?? Mine are 350 front 450 rear, yet to get it on track tho as only fitted them over winter. Running arb, you think it'll handle badly with my setup? obviously you've done plenty of track time in yours so your input would be appreciated mate!
05-03-2017, 05:22 PM
#53
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if I set them to the height I want which is about 2'' then I have 0 droop, I have lowered it more and hoping wheels don't come into contact with arches , but now I only have 20mm droop?
are my shocks to short same a Christian
05-03-2017, 05:29 PM
#54
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hi christain, sorry I know this is an old post, I'm having same issues with mine, only got 20mm droop, I have 0 droop at the ride hight I want which is around 2'' clearance. how much longer where the units gaz supplied you? what did they charge?
13-03-2017, 01:11 PM
#55
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Funny this, just had an email convo with Gaz as I wanted to keep standard ride height more or less.
Their reply was :
All coilovers will reduce ride height by 20mm initially (and will adjust
to lower the car still more) but we can make the kit 20/25mm longer so the
car retains as close to original height as possible for Ł50.00 extra.
So i'll probably go with the +25mm as it looks for non chav use you can still lower it more then plenty after that.
Their reply was :
All coilovers will reduce ride height by 20mm initially (and will adjust
to lower the car still more) but we can make the kit 20/25mm longer so the
car retains as close to original height as possible for Ł50.00 extra.
So i'll probably go with the +25mm as it looks for non chav use you can still lower it more then plenty after that.
13-03-2017, 06:28 PM
#56
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Funny this, just had an email convo with Gaz as I wanted to keep standard ride height more or less.
Their reply was :
All coilovers will reduce ride height by 20mm initially (and will adjust
to lower the car still more) but we can make the kit 20/25mm longer so the
car retains as close to original height as possible for Ł50.00 extra.
So i'll probably go with the +25mm as it looks for non chav use you can still lower it more then plenty after that.
Their reply was :
All coilovers will reduce ride height by 20mm initially (and will adjust
to lower the car still more) but we can make the kit 20/25mm longer so the
car retains as close to original height as possible for Ł50.00 extra.
So i'll probably go with the +25mm as it looks for non chav use you can still lower it more then plenty after that.
01-10-2017, 07:35 AM
#58
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So, how did it go?
Did you get your existing shocks lengthened, and what did it cost?
I'm at the same situation now too. First tank run with the GAZ setup, and it's come very apparent that there is zero to 10mm droop at the rear. The wheels were scrubbing the arches slightly in bends, so I raised the rear by ~5mm, and now I'm getting the clonking over road imperfections as the rear shocks hit against their limits.
When the car is jacked up, the springs (185lbs/in) are still compressed by about 10-15mm. To get it working properly, it's about much more travel, just a few millimeter here and there. I wonder if anybody has any ideas on that or done something similar.
1) The shock top has some 7mm of exposed thread, that means that I could space the shocks down by washer shims.
2) The steel plate discs under and over the top rubber could be modified or redone to sit offset in relation to the top rubber.
3) Someone on here in 2009 suggested that running the shocks more firm, would reduce the noise generated, but it wouldn't really increase droop and rectify the problem, just hide it.
4) The top thread could be extended, but to keep access to the adjuster makes it a bit difficult and would require enlarging the holes at the top strut top plates. Could be a reliability issue too.
5) something else?
Did you get your existing shocks lengthened, and what did it cost?
I'm at the same situation now too. First tank run with the GAZ setup, and it's come very apparent that there is zero to 10mm droop at the rear. The wheels were scrubbing the arches slightly in bends, so I raised the rear by ~5mm, and now I'm getting the clonking over road imperfections as the rear shocks hit against their limits.
When the car is jacked up, the springs (185lbs/in) are still compressed by about 10-15mm. To get it working properly, it's about much more travel, just a few millimeter here and there. I wonder if anybody has any ideas on that or done something similar.
1) The shock top has some 7mm of exposed thread, that means that I could space the shocks down by washer shims.
2) The steel plate discs under and over the top rubber could be modified or redone to sit offset in relation to the top rubber.
3) Someone on here in 2009 suggested that running the shocks more firm, would reduce the noise generated, but it wouldn't really increase droop and rectify the problem, just hide it.
4) The top thread could be extended, but to keep access to the adjuster makes it a bit difficult and would require enlarging the holes at the top strut top plates. Could be a reliability issue too.
5) something else?
02-10-2017, 09:35 AM
#59
If you want to run near-ish standard ride height you need the shocks casements the same length as standard.
As a rule, all coilover shock casements are shorter to accommodate lowering the car. Usually most coilovers will lower the car 30mm or so without winding them down.
As a rule, all coilover shock casements are shorter to accommodate lowering the car. Usually most coilovers will lower the car 30mm or so without winding them down.
02-10-2017, 12:00 PM
#60
Advanced PassionFord User
It all sounds completely wrong to me. When the car is sat on the road you should be ideally mid stroke. When the car is jacked up giving full droop, the springs should not dislocate. Any voids should be taken up with helper springs if you're not wanting to use a longer spring.
If your damper is topping out then it won't be long until you have catastrophic failure of the unit. The piston could come off the rod or you could pull the top closure off completely. If I were you I'd be going back to Gaz
If your damper is topping out then it won't be long until you have catastrophic failure of the unit. The piston could come off the rod or you could pull the top closure off completely. If I were you I'd be going back to Gaz
02-10-2017, 04:48 PM
#66
Advanced PassionFord User
Coilovers are fine if they are specced correctly. A coilover is like any other unit just ride height adjustable. I've got coilovers on my Passat and T5 Kombi and they are both a pleasure to drive, because they're built for the use of the vehicle.
04-10-2017, 01:29 PM
#67
............
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04-10-2017, 07:57 PM
#69
Advanced PassionFord User
Stands well that Mat. If you get on with the konis don't change them. If it ain't broke......
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