Zetec idle problem
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From: Waterford, Ireland
Zetec idle problem
I have a '90 Fiesta van with a 2L zetec in it from a '97 Mondeo.
The Mondy was in a demolition derby and i picked it up for sod all at the end. It wasn't badly dismembered with smashed bumpers and the usual every panel dented and driver's door was blown in. It got a hard smack in the front LH corner and smashed the fusebox, blew the ECU fuse and cut out. I took it home on a transporter and changed the fuse and it started up with no obvious problems. It had a problem with the air con not coming on and the rad and aircon fans being on CONSTANTLY for about a week. I drove it around a forest for a few weeks and ripped the engine out then.
I put it into the Fiesta with 1.8 Escort manifolds, sump, fly etc. I used the Mondeo's EEC-V and first started her up with the whole mondeo car loom attached. It was idling perfectly without a downpipe, alternator, oxygen sensor or radiator with a good battery.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JaWL0mSgWs
I chopped the main engine multiplug off the car loom and wired up the lives and grounds and immobiliser. It started running a rough after that, but improved when the battery got flatter.(shite one with no alt.) When i jumped it from another car while running, it ran rough. After I put the downpipe, O2 sensor and rad on, there was no difference. I put the alternator on then and now it always idles bad, it just wants to cut out when cold (jumping from 300-700rpm) with running improving as it gets hot. It smells seriously rich!
I connected a scan tool to it and spent nearly 2 hours trying to figure it out. It had 4 diagnostic codes stored about: canister purge problem, egr leak and I can't remember the rest, compared to only 1 about the canister purge before I chopped the loom. Oxygen sensor voltage was 0 to 0.05v at idle. It runs well above 3000, so I held it at 4k for about a minute and I got O2 voltages between .4v to.7v and it switched to closed loop after 5sec with the odd rough spot with a drop in revs when voltage went to zero. Left it to idle then and voltage dropped to zero again, idling PERFECTLY and then switched to open loop after about 10sec, running like a badger's behind and probably doing about 8:1 AFR. I tried this a few times with the same results and getting the message: Running Open Loop- Problem, after letting it idle for a few seconds. I changed the oxygen sensor with no difference at all, which then broke against the crossmember. I also cleaned the ISCV with no improvement.
Has anyone got the slightest idea about what could be wrong here? I'm really stuck and don't know what to do! :-(
The Mondy was in a demolition derby and i picked it up for sod all at the end. It wasn't badly dismembered with smashed bumpers and the usual every panel dented and driver's door was blown in. It got a hard smack in the front LH corner and smashed the fusebox, blew the ECU fuse and cut out. I took it home on a transporter and changed the fuse and it started up with no obvious problems. It had a problem with the air con not coming on and the rad and aircon fans being on CONSTANTLY for about a week. I drove it around a forest for a few weeks and ripped the engine out then.
I put it into the Fiesta with 1.8 Escort manifolds, sump, fly etc. I used the Mondeo's EEC-V and first started her up with the whole mondeo car loom attached. It was idling perfectly without a downpipe, alternator, oxygen sensor or radiator with a good battery.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JaWL0mSgWs
I chopped the main engine multiplug off the car loom and wired up the lives and grounds and immobiliser. It started running a rough after that, but improved when the battery got flatter.(shite one with no alt.) When i jumped it from another car while running, it ran rough. After I put the downpipe, O2 sensor and rad on, there was no difference. I put the alternator on then and now it always idles bad, it just wants to cut out when cold (jumping from 300-700rpm) with running improving as it gets hot. It smells seriously rich!
I connected a scan tool to it and spent nearly 2 hours trying to figure it out. It had 4 diagnostic codes stored about: canister purge problem, egr leak and I can't remember the rest, compared to only 1 about the canister purge before I chopped the loom. Oxygen sensor voltage was 0 to 0.05v at idle. It runs well above 3000, so I held it at 4k for about a minute and I got O2 voltages between .4v to.7v and it switched to closed loop after 5sec with the odd rough spot with a drop in revs when voltage went to zero. Left it to idle then and voltage dropped to zero again, idling PERFECTLY and then switched to open loop after about 10sec, running like a badger's behind and probably doing about 8:1 AFR. I tried this a few times with the same results and getting the message: Running Open Loop- Problem, after letting it idle for a few seconds. I changed the oxygen sensor with no difference at all, which then broke against the crossmember. I also cleaned the ISCV with no improvement.
Has anyone got the slightest idea about what could be wrong here? I'm really stuck and don't know what to do! :-(
Last edited by RSturboJET; 20-12-2008 at 10:39 PM.
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