Cos crank rear oil seal - where from???
27-11-2008, 11:01 AM
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Cos crank rear oil seal - where from???
best place to get a crank rear oil seal for a 4x4 saph cos. already tried a genuine one from ford & it still leaked once i got it on track
27-11-2008, 11:26 AM
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installed enough before & it was done with the engine out so not as if it was awkward to do lolmatt lewis supplies the genuine ones though doesn't he? thats whats already in there
27-11-2008, 11:35 AM
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That is a bitch, not like they are the easiest things to get to either. Is there a deep wear groove where the seal lies or do you have a lot of piston-blow by pressurising the crankcase??
, not like they are the easiest things to get to either. Is there a deep wear groove where the seal lies or do you have a lot of piston-blow by pressurising the crankcase??
27-11-2008, 11:38 AM
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running a spec r breather vented from both sides of the block with a proper oil return below the oil level so should be breathing ok. engine has done little mileage. only happens when on track ie sustained high rpm & hot oil
27-11-2008, 11:42 AM
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But was there a grove on the ground cranck face wher the lip of the seal runs??
Maybe a case of the oil getting so hot its going extremely thin and by-passing the seal.......Do you run an oil cooler?
Maybe a case of the oil getting so hot its going extremely thin and by-passing the seal.......Do you run an oil cooler?
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27-11-2008, 11:50 AM
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Hmm its a puzzler
. I would def run an oil cooler if you are on the track and maybe try a different oil perhaps, there is no reason why it should leak if its fitted correctly and everything is as you say it is.....
. I would def run an oil cooler if you are on the track and maybe try a different oil perhaps, there is no reason why it should leak if its fitted correctly and everything is as you say it is.....
27-11-2008, 11:51 AM
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bit of sealant smeared round the outside, pressed into the carrier off the car then fitted into place. normally use a small plastic spatula to coax the lip into the right place without dislodging the wire that runs round the back
27-11-2008, 11:52 AM
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Last edited by IANS2RST; 27-11-2008 at 12:12 PM.
27-11-2008, 12:04 PM
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Give that one a try but the only other thing that i can see causing it is that the area that the seal runs on has been ground when/if it has been machined throughout its life or the main bearings(especially No. 4 & 5) are severley worn but if this were the case i think you would have known about it before now!
27-11-2008, 12:11 PM
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There is not an alloy carrier that the rear seal sits in? It sits in a combination of the block and the rear crank main cap? Are you sure your not talking about the front seal that sits in the alloy fron cover?
Either way, genuine ford items should be fine. Matt Lewis for supply of these.
27-11-2008, 12:14 PM
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u r right I've gone mad - it is the rear oil seal that leaking but for some reason I'm thinking about when i last changed the front one
27-11-2008, 06:33 PM
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I always use VITON seals wherever possible, these are vastly better than std ones, as they are meant in high heat loaded applications, and have much higher clamping pressure than std seals,(which should have been fine).
All the viton ones I use have always had a wire that was in such a depth of moulding that it can't even be got out when you try, so would never fall out, when installing.
On crank seals I always plastic them in when inserting, a thin ring that goes between crank and seal, then just rotate whilst pulling out gently, with everything oiled.
tabetha
All the viton ones I use have always had a wire that was in such a depth of moulding that it can't even be got out when you try, so would never fall out, when installing.
On crank seals I always plastic them in when inserting, a thin ring that goes between crank and seal, then just rotate whilst pulling out gently, with everything oiled.
tabetha
27-11-2008, 07:04 PM
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I always use VITON seals wherever possible, these are vastly better than std ones, as they are meant in high heat loaded applications, and have much higher clamping pressure than std seals,(which should have been fine).
All the viton ones I use have always had a wire that was in such a depth of moulding that it can't even be got out when you try, so would never fall out, when installing.
On crank seals I always plastic them in when inserting, a thin ring that goes between crank and seal, then just rotate whilst pulling out gently, with everything oiled.
tabetha
All the viton ones I use have always had a wire that was in such a depth of moulding that it can't even be got out when you try, so would never fall out, when installing.
On crank seals I always plastic them in when inserting, a thin ring that goes between crank and seal, then just rotate whilst pulling out gently, with everything oiled.
tabetha
27-11-2008, 08:03 PM
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28-11-2008, 08:23 AM
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I always use VITON seals wherever possible, these are vastly better than std ones, as they are meant in high heat loaded applications, and have much higher clamping pressure than std seals,(which should have been fine).
All the viton ones I use have always had a wire that was in such a depth of moulding that it can't even be got out when you try, so would never fall out, when installing.
On crank seals I always plastic them in when inserting, a thin ring that goes between crank and seal, then just rotate whilst pulling out gently, with everything oiled.
tabetha
All the viton ones I use have always had a wire that was in such a depth of moulding that it can't even be got out when you try, so would never fall out, when installing.
On crank seals I always plastic them in when inserting, a thin ring that goes between crank and seal, then just rotate whilst pulling out gently, with everything oiled.
tabetha
ford seals are shite 
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