URGENT help pleeeease!! Chip? Stu? Anyone?
#1
URGENT help pleeeease!! Chip? Stu? Anyone?
Right its about a Fiat but with the amount of knowledge and people on here I know I can get some help.
Got a Fiat Bravo with a 20v turbo engine in, from the coupe.
Had it in almost a year, and once we got it sorted (immobiliser removed completely from the ecu, and box taken out of the car, as it clashed with the original) it was working absolutely fine. Had one electrical gremlin with the fan, which took out an injector wire, but sorted that and it was fine again, running sweet for 6 months, every day.
Now the crux of the problem is this: It wont start. When cranking over, you can smell fuel from the exhaust, and we have comp checked all cylinders, (180psi within 10 of each other) so this leaves spark, or lack of. We've been over the loom and cant find any fault, the coil packs have power to them, but it seems no signal to fire. I have been told to check timing, as it has a cam sensor and crank sensor, which if not lined up, wont allow a start. Doing that tomorrow.
Was wondering if there is anything else I can check? Its a Bosch Motronic (5 i think) ecu, coil on plug as per standard engine. Should i be checking pins on the ecu (and if so which ones) or anything else?
Just to put you in the picture... It was running fine, the lad whos buying it took it down the road for fuel (and i mean down the road, like 1/4 mile) and it just wouldnt restart. The RAC report claimed no power/earth to injectors, but the smell of fuel suggests otherwise.
Ive checked the fuel pump cut off etc, and it primes as normal. The immobiliser is totally ruled out, as it cuts the fuel pump.
Any help would be MINT, I'm totally stuck.
As a side note, I dont see why I'm fixing it when I wasnt in the car when it broke down, (bend it you buy it) but thats a seperate matter, I just want it running. Thinking of keeping it too, my enthusiasm is peaking again....
Steve
Got a Fiat Bravo with a 20v turbo engine in, from the coupe.
Had it in almost a year, and once we got it sorted (immobiliser removed completely from the ecu, and box taken out of the car, as it clashed with the original) it was working absolutely fine. Had one electrical gremlin with the fan, which took out an injector wire, but sorted that and it was fine again, running sweet for 6 months, every day.
Now the crux of the problem is this: It wont start. When cranking over, you can smell fuel from the exhaust, and we have comp checked all cylinders, (180psi within 10 of each other) so this leaves spark, or lack of. We've been over the loom and cant find any fault, the coil packs have power to them, but it seems no signal to fire. I have been told to check timing, as it has a cam sensor and crank sensor, which if not lined up, wont allow a start. Doing that tomorrow.
Was wondering if there is anything else I can check? Its a Bosch Motronic (5 i think) ecu, coil on plug as per standard engine. Should i be checking pins on the ecu (and if so which ones) or anything else?
Just to put you in the picture... It was running fine, the lad whos buying it took it down the road for fuel (and i mean down the road, like 1/4 mile) and it just wouldnt restart. The RAC report claimed no power/earth to injectors, but the smell of fuel suggests otherwise.
Ive checked the fuel pump cut off etc, and it primes as normal. The immobiliser is totally ruled out, as it cuts the fuel pump.
Any help would be MINT, I'm totally stuck.
As a side note, I dont see why I'm fixing it when I wasnt in the car when it broke down, (bend it you buy it) but thats a seperate matter, I just want it running. Thinking of keeping it too, my enthusiasm is peaking again....
Steve
#7
Yeah he's doing it tomorrow. Dont know how much info he will get out of it? Will it tell him cam/crank sensor is fucked? Timing out? I have no idea
Trending Topics
#9
hope it not the cam sensor cos thats a cambelt off job out off interst what does car go like with this engine init and does the management light stay on when cranking as mine did this all the time but allways restarted a few hours later
#11
Found the crank sensor, the wire initailly looked like it got fried when i had the first wiring problem but all checked and ok, pulsing too.
#12
Car goes very well indeed more to come too if i keep it, big I/C, T34 etc...
The Management light stayed on when cranking, then goes out about 5 seconds after it fires up (when its working). Staying on all the time now
It occasionally comes on when running, and the car hesitates slightly but then clears up.You got the 20vt too? Pics?
#16
Yeah hope so too.
Car goes very well indeed more to come too if i keep it, big I/C, T34 etc...
The Management light stayed on when cranking, then goes out about 5 seconds after it fires up (when its working). Staying on all the time now
It occasionally comes on when running, and the car hesitates slightly but then clears up.You got the 20vt too? Pics?
Car goes very well indeed more to come too if i keep it, big I/C, T34 etc...
The Management light stayed on when cranking, then goes out about 5 seconds after it fires up (when its working). Staying on all the time now
It occasionally comes on when running, and the car hesitates slightly but then clears up.You got the 20vt too? Pics?
#18
#20
have to take cam pully off to change sensor and iirc cam pullys are verier style that why you really need locking tools doo'nt thing i took any engine mounts off think i took off side wheel off alt belt and bottom pully and the cam belt covers that it were you based as i would happily help you out
#22
#24
Steve,i've got a mate of mine who's fitting forged pistons,GT28 turbo,huge intercooler onto a dismanteled 20v coupe turbo here in Rome,if you get stuck and need to know were any other sensors are i'll pop down to him and see or take digi photos.
1 other dodgy component that springs to mind and is fitted to both 20vt and N/A 1800cc coupe models is the VVT soloniod fitted on the inlet cam,i changed 1 last year on my mates N/A 1800cc coupe due to running problems.
They often get slugged up and give untold problems,bit like the VANOS valves fitted to Bmw M3s,lumpy idle,hard starting etc.
Worth a look and easy to remove IF you have the proper cam locking tools.
Let us know mate.
1 other dodgy component that springs to mind and is fitted to both 20vt and N/A 1800cc coupe models is the VVT soloniod fitted on the inlet cam,i changed 1 last year on my mates N/A 1800cc coupe due to running problems.
They often get slugged up and give untold problems,bit like the VANOS valves fitted to Bmw M3s,lumpy idle,hard starting etc.
Worth a look and easy to remove IF you have the proper cam locking tools.
Let us know mate.
#27
you can upload pics using the post reply button rathe than the box at the bottom of the screen
or you can put the pics up in photobucket or the like and then copy the links across
or you can put the pics up in photobucket or the like and then copy the links across
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post