making tools stronger??????
09-08-2008, 12:05 AM
#1
YES I KNOW I CANT SPELL
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making tools stronger??????
wot do people think about this a guy at work heated a cheep spanner up till it glowed red hot the through it into old oil when he took it out it did seem stronger? i could not bend it in the vice??? wot do you lot think? or is it all in my mined?
09-08-2008, 12:13 AM
#4
PassionFord Post Whore!!
no probs i, their is another way in which sand is used but i can't remember all off it. Heat up component and place it in sand till it cools, i think that is for hardness tho.
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09-08-2008, 12:26 AM
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YES I KNOW I CANT SPELL
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09-08-2008, 12:45 AM
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PassionFord Post Whore!!
09-08-2008, 12:47 AM
#16
It will help.
When you polish them its very important you go round the rod, NOT across it though.
The idea is to remove stress raisers than can lead to failure.
Realistically though, its more about revs than torque, so not going to do what you and paul want on turbo applications, although it may help a bit.
Personally, id just buy some cheap steels!
When you polish them its very important you go round the rod, NOT across it though.
The idea is to remove stress raisers than can lead to failure.
Realistically though, its more about revs than torque, so not going to do what you and paul want on turbo applications, although it may help a bit.
Personally, id just buy some cheap steels!
09-08-2008, 12:50 AM
#17
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09-08-2008, 12:54 AM
#18
I didnt do those mate, quote from the person who did:
I used a flap wheel on a std drill for all the deseaming bits. The radiusing of the sharp edges was mainly done with some smaller cartidge rolls.
Really, the only 'tricky' part is to get rid of the cut edge where the rod bolts sit, as you need to be careful of where the bolt sits against the cap, it needs to be flat, and if I have to mill it flat, I need to get rid of the cut edge again! lol
That bit was done with a cartidge roll. Quite a smooth one too.
Really, the only 'tricky' part is to get rid of the cut edge where the rod bolts sit, as you need to be careful of where the bolt sits against the cap, it needs to be flat, and if I have to mill it flat, I need to get rid of the cut edge again! lol
That bit was done with a cartidge roll. Quite a smooth one too.
09-08-2008, 06:53 AM
#19
It will help.
When you polish them its very important you go round the rod, NOT across it though.
The idea is to remove stress raisers than can lead to failure.
Realistically though, its more about revs than torque, so not going to do what you and paul want on turbo applications, although it may help a bit.
Personally, id just buy some cheap steels!
When you polish them its very important you go round the rod, NOT across it though.
The idea is to remove stress raisers than can lead to failure.
Realistically though, its more about revs than torque, so not going to do what you and paul want on turbo applications, although it may help a bit.
Personally, id just buy some cheap steels!
09-08-2008, 07:23 AM
#20
He hardened it, it will now be a lot more brittle and more likely to snap as you are supposed to temper steel after hardening. The higher the tempering temperature the less brittle the steel will become.
At the end of the day it was probably the right hardness for the cheap grade of steel it was made from and he has just fucked it up.
Buy a better spanner to start with
Mark
09-08-2008, 08:17 AM
#21
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He hardened it, it will now be a lot more brittle and more likely to snap as you are supposed to temper steel after hardening. The higher the tempering temperature the less brittle the steel will become.
At the end of the day it was probably the right hardness for the cheap grade of steel it was made from and he has just fucked it up.
Buy a better spanner to start with
Mark
At the end of the day it was probably the right hardness for the cheap grade of steel it was made from and he has just fucked it up.
Buy a better spanner to start with
Mark
09-08-2008, 08:38 AM
#22
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shot peening makes sure that even within the casting it is smooth. When metal fatique takes place, shart angles on casts can cause heirline fractures to occur and this can lead to total failure. Hence why on the racing puma 1st and 2nd gear torque limiters are removed and 1st and 2nd gear are shot peened.
I beleive it doesnt necessarily take away the uneven casting surface, but smooths out the surface.
It was explained to me like a rock in water, when its first put into a flowing stream it can be sharp and jagged but over time, when substance passes over its surfaces it becomes curved and smooth.
I beleive it doesnt necessarily take away the uneven casting surface, but smooths out the surface.
It was explained to me like a rock in water, when its first put into a flowing stream it can be sharp and jagged but over time, when substance passes over its surfaces it becomes curved and smooth.
09-08-2008, 08:43 AM
#23
Shot peening is all about putting compressive stress in the rods surface, this is because then as you rev and the tensile forces go through the rod (at their greatest on the sufrace) they effectively get cancelled out by the compressive forces, it essentially allows the rod to stretch slightly without the surface cracking.
Polishing the rods will remove all the stress raisers, but its still not as good as a shotpeened finnish.
Im sure there is an engineer on here who can do a better job of explaining it than me, but thats the basics anyway.
Polishing the rods will remove all the stress raisers, but its still not as good as a shotpeened finnish.
Im sure there is an engineer on here who can do a better job of explaining it than me, but thats the basics anyway.
09-08-2008, 09:59 AM
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If you do all your rods like that what do you do about balancing them? Do they need to pivot around the same centre of gravity or whatever? I'm probably not gona bother, but it's interesting reading.
09-08-2008, 05:57 PM
#27
Shot peening is all about putting compressive stress in the rods surface, this is because then as you rev and the tensile forces go through the rod (at their greatest on the sufrace) they effectively get cancelled out by the compressive forces, it essentially allows the rod to stretch slightly without the surface cracking.
Polishing the rods will remove all the stress raisers, but its still not as good as a shotpeened finnish.
Im sure there is an engineer on here who can do a better job of explaining it than me, but thats the basics anyway.
Polishing the rods will remove all the stress raisers, but its still not as good as a shotpeened finnish.
Im sure there is an engineer on here who can do a better job of explaining it than me, but thats the basics anyway.
09-08-2008, 06:23 PM
#28
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clarke that oil hole in the top of thr rod is what i have in my zetec rods as advised by ian howell which someone on here wernt convinced of it being right with the c20let pistons
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