Maff sensor on 2.0 Zetec
02-11-2004, 12:44 PM
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Maff sensor on 2.0 Zetec
Basically ive had a problem for awhile, my car idles a little bit funny and cuts out when cold. It wont cut out striaight away when cold just after a few mins when cold start is over , then once it totally warms up it is fine.
I had a fucked lambda and exhaust blow so thought that was causing it, ive now fixed that and it still happens. So today i pulled the plug of the maff off and nothing happen, would you expect it to cut out or idle funny or something? or not?
I had a fucked lambda and exhaust blow so thought that was causing it, ive now fixed that and it still happens. So today i pulled the plug of the maff off and nothing happen, would you expect it to cut out or idle funny or something? or not?
02-11-2004, 12:50 PM
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Sunil_FiestaRS1800,
I am assuming that you have standard ecu (with or without chip)
and the car is NOT turbo charged.......
Unplugging the MAF will put the car into limp home mode and register a fault code.
The car will still run reasonably well but will drink fuel.
You need to plug the MAF back in, Have the system fault codes reset and then
drive the car for about 10 miles, then have the fault codes read out again.
As for your original problem it could be any thing.
If reading fault codes does NOT shed any light, then suspect in this order.....
IDLE VALVE
CRANK SENSOR
COIL
EDIS MODULE (if fitted)
ECU
WIRING LOOM
This is going to be a bitch to find..... Take it to a proffesional (NOT A FORD DEALER)
I am assuming that you have standard ecu (with or without chip)
and the car is NOT turbo charged.......
Unplugging the MAF will put the car into limp home mode and register a fault code.
The car will still run reasonably well but will drink fuel.
You need to plug the MAF back in, Have the system fault codes reset and then
drive the car for about 10 miles, then have the fault codes read out again.
As for your original problem it could be any thing.
If reading fault codes does NOT shed any light, then suspect in this order.....
IDLE VALVE
CRANK SENSOR
COIL
EDIS MODULE (if fitted)
ECU
WIRING LOOM
This is going to be a bitch to find..... Take it to a proffesional (NOT A FORD DEALER)
02-11-2004, 01:02 PM
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Cheers Fudgeass and SECS,
I will try cleaning the idle control valve and see what that does.
Secs will leaving the battery off for awhile reset the ecu?
If so i will do that see how it runs for a day then get it on my mates snapon machine and see if there is any faults.
It wouldnt be the state of engine tune causing it would it? Its a 2.0 zetec with raceline spec compression, head, cams, lightened flywheel etc. running std 2.0 ECU ("DEEP") .
I will try cleaning the idle control valve and see what that does.
Secs will leaving the battery off for awhile reset the ecu?
If so i will do that see how it runs for a day then get it on my mates snapon machine and see if there is any faults.
It wouldnt be the state of engine tune causing it would it? Its a 2.0 zetec with raceline spec compression, head, cams, lightened flywheel etc. running std 2.0 ECU ("DEEP") .
02-11-2004, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by fudgeass
to reset the ecu unplug it for about 24hours
get it chipped mate, in a few weeks time ill have a dastek unichip for sale for Ł150, its mapped to a 1.6 zetec ecu to run my 2.0l zetec, but its remappable
get it chipped mate, in a few weeks time ill have a dastek unichip for sale for Ł150, its mapped to a 1.6 zetec ecu to run my 2.0l zetec, but its remappable
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02-11-2004, 01:49 PM
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After looking at my bay a min ago while having a fag noticed the the wires to the maff dont look in the best of condtion, you can see bear wire need the plug but it does not look broken. If this is causing problems would a diagnostics machine pick this up or should i use a multi metre to test it somehow??
02-11-2004, 04:07 PM
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Tidy the wiring up, and have the ecu reset then driven for a few miles
the re-read the fault codes but YES the AFM will be diagnosed faulty 99%
of the time depending on fault type.
the re-read the fault codes but YES the AFM will be diagnosed faulty 99%
of the time depending on fault type.
02-11-2004, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SECS
Tidy the wiring up, and have the ecu reset then driven for a few miles
the re-read the fault codes but YES the AFM will be diagnosed faulty 99%
of the time depending on fault type.
the re-read the fault codes but YES the AFM will be diagnosed faulty 99%
of the time depending on fault type.
02-11-2004, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by SECS
AFM = AIR FLOW METER / MAF (MASS AIR FLOW) same things
ive left the battery off since about 2 o'clock so hopfully its reset. Im gonna drive it round tonight and then take it to me mates garage tomorrow and see what the snap on fault machine says. Hopefully it will pick up my fault and it will be the idle control valve rather than the maff/AFM cause i cant be bothered to trace the wires and replcae them really
cheers for all the help
03-11-2004, 08:50 AM
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Well pleased hasnt cut out since i left the battery off, also it seems a lot more smoother and responsive. Especially in the low revs , i was slowing for a junction and forgot to change from third to second but the car pulled away from a slight roll in third at 1500 rpm when it would usually just go fuck off and start jolting. 
03-11-2004, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by fudgeass
sorted then???
cool
cool
03-11-2004, 08:57 AM
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Sunil, got a 2.0ltr zetec on the drive being stripped, it gets hi-ab'd away next tuesday, i've taken the bits off i want, so if theres anything you need off it, let me know before then and i'll sort it out 
03-11-2004, 09:13 AM
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thats the only thing inve sold bare block and head. All the other bits that bolt to it i still have airflow meter, inlet, coil pack, thermostat etc................
Know of a complete 1.8 16v escort for Ł150 if thats any help
Know of a complete 1.8 16v escort for Ł150 if thats any help
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