Stack Gauges
22-06-2008, 09:02 PM
#1
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Stack Gauges
i have fitted a stack boost gauge to my saph, the stepper one, but i cannot workout where to wire the live to
it needs to be switchable but live while the engine is cranking which means the sterio is no good
cheers
it needs to be switchable but live while the engine is cranking which means the sterio is no good
cheers
22-06-2008, 09:18 PM
#3
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when you switch the gauge on it calibrates so a break in power means it re calibrates and by the time it has caught up the engine has started and its giving a false reading
22-06-2008, 09:25 PM
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I have a number of stack gauges and im not sure thats quite true, my rev counter and fuel gauge both become interupted when starting the car and it has no effect on there operation
22-06-2008, 09:28 PM
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well it does definatly have an effect on my boost gauge, its still re calibrating when the engine has started so its not going to read correct, it gives me 17psi on boost when it should give me 10 lol
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22-06-2008, 09:47 PM
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26-06-2008, 12:24 PM
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I think my apexi 2.5 bar gauge is doing this too, as I can see what you mean. If it calibrates to zero when switched on, and the engine is obviously on vacuum at the time (cranking) it's going to over read by the vacuum amount??
I have a boost controller with boost display (profec B spec II) and it disagrees with the apexi by half a bar under at 2 bar!!
I have a mechanical gauge coming so will be able to check for sure shortly!!
I have a boost controller with boost display (profec B spec II) and it disagrees with the apexi by half a bar under at 2 bar!!
I have a mechanical gauge coming so will be able to check for sure shortly!!
12-07-2008, 09:03 AM
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Have you sorted this yet mate?
Just tried mine on the ecu feed pin 20 which comes direct from the battery through a relay switched by the ign.
STILL drops the power. Now I know the battery voltage is going to drop whatever whilst cranking, so I'm going to try straight to the battery and see if it still drops too much for the gauges on cranking.
only other thing it can be is a faulty map sensor on the gauge.
Just tried mine on the ecu feed pin 20 which comes direct from the battery through a relay switched by the ign.
STILL drops the power. Now I know the battery voltage is going to drop whatever whilst cranking, so I'm going to try straight to the battery and see if it still drops too much for the gauges on cranking.
only other thing it can be is a faulty map sensor on the gauge.
12-07-2008, 09:27 AM
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Right, I've just connected the gauges straight to the battery and then started the car and the voltage still drops too low for the gauges to stay on!!!
So unless it is the gauges map sensor faulty - I cant do anything about it!!
Although my old man has mentioned something about a ballast resistor??? Anyone know anything about them?
So unless it is the gauges map sensor faulty - I cant do anything about it!!
Although my old man has mentioned something about a ballast resistor??? Anyone know anything about them?
12-07-2008, 10:34 AM
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Well mine does now appear to be a faulty gauge or the map sensor for the gauge. 
I connected the gauge up to a booster pack AND the car supply, started the engine and the gauge stayed on. I then disconnected the booster pack and went for a drive. The gauge is still over reading by at least 8 psi.
So mine is nothing to do with it calibrating whilst cranking.
I hope you sort your stack Lozi!!!
I connected the gauge up to a booster pack AND the car supply, started the engine and the gauge stayed on. I then disconnected the booster pack and went for a drive. The gauge is still over reading by at least 8 psi.
So mine is nothing to do with it calibrating whilst cranking.
I hope you sort your stack Lozi!!!
12-07-2008, 02:51 PM
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12-07-2008, 03:56 PM
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I have but its the non stepper one and its poo it flutters all over the shop, I was thinking of getting a stepper one tbh, I think I will wait and see how yours works out lol
12-07-2008, 04:02 PM
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I owe you an apology, you are indeed correct, here's what it says
You can get a cranking live feed from the same place as the ecu
Connect the red power wire to a switched +12 volt source that maintains power during engine cranking. Most vehicles break the electrical connection to accessories while the
engine is being started. If the boost gauge is connected to one of these circuits, the auto zero function will not work properly and inaccurate readings will result. To determine
whether a switched source maintains power during starting, look for electrical accessories in the vehicle that remain on while the engine is being started. Connect the red power
wire to the same circuit that powers one of these accessories. The connection can be tested by turning the key switch from off to on, the pointer will move backward to the stop
pin and then move to zero. Once the pointer has reached zero, start the engine. If the pointer reads vacuum without returning to the stop pin, a suitable connection has been
found. If the pointer moves to the stop pin and then reads vacuum, another power circuit must be found.
engine is being started. If the boost gauge is connected to one of these circuits, the auto zero function will not work properly and inaccurate readings will result. To determine
whether a switched source maintains power during starting, look for electrical accessories in the vehicle that remain on while the engine is being started. Connect the red power
wire to the same circuit that powers one of these accessories. The connection can be tested by turning the key switch from off to on, the pointer will move backward to the stop
pin and then move to zero. Once the pointer has reached zero, start the engine. If the pointer reads vacuum without returning to the stop pin, a suitable connection has been
found. If the pointer moves to the stop pin and then reads vacuum, another power circuit must be found.
Power-Up
The pointer will move backward to the stop pin and then move to zero. This procedure is an auto-calibration function and is performed on every power-up. While this test is being
performed, the gauge may make a clicking sound. This is normal.
Electronic Boost/Vac gauges are equipped with an auto zero function used to compensate for operation at varying altitudes. This function takes a pressure reading during the time that the
key switch “flies through” from the ON position to the START position. The reading represents zero pressure and is used to set the zero point on the gauge each time the engine is started.performed, the gauge may make a clicking sound. This is normal.
Electronic Boost/Vac gauges are equipped with an auto zero function used to compensate for operation at varying altitudes. This function takes a pressure reading during the time that the
You can get a cranking live feed from the same place as the ecu
12-07-2008, 05:44 PM
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lol yes just have to make sure that as your driving up that mountain that you occasionally stop and turn the engine off and back on to re callibrate the boost gauge to your altitude. lol I may still get one.
12-07-2008, 05:49 PM
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i need to find somebody with a saph who has 1 of these gauges so i can wire same as them.
the gauge is just sat in the dash doing nothing but light up lol, wish id kept the old mocal gauge in
the gauge is just sat in the dash doing nothing but light up lol, wish id kept the old mocal gauge in
21-07-2008, 04:37 PM
#32
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this is now sorted, i have wired it to a live on the light filment indicator unit and it works great now good gauge
wiring to electric windows work's as well
wiring to electric windows work's as well
21-07-2008, 04:46 PM
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excellent, I may have to invest in one as my cappilary stack us completely poo, it vibrates round and is an eye sore unless its getting a few bar of boost at which point it stabalises.
21-07-2008, 04:48 PM
#34
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i used to have a mocal capilary gauge and this gause is 100 times better, it moves so smooth and i think its slightly more accurate and less randomly all over the place lol
now i need to work out why the petrol light/picture of car on dash dont work, they work for about 1 minute once a month lol
now i need to work out why the petrol light/picture of car on dash dont work, they work for about 1 minute once a month lol
21-07-2008, 05:26 PM
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dash is back together now mate, the yellow and black wire that goes into the window switches worked.
if you drop the bottom of the dash off drivers side there is a light bulp fail indicator unit in there i just tested each wire into it for power and found one
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