Boarding up a garage ceiling....
03-06-2008, 12:05 PM
#1
Boarding up a garage ceiling....
Hi everyone,
I'd like to put a ceiling in my garage, nothing fancy, just something that i can nail onto the joists to make it look a bit better and to put a couple of cheapy downlighters in etc.
What would be best to use? I thought plasterboard, but a mate said that if the garage is not damp proof, it will slowly warp, same with chipboard. What would be best to use? Musn't be too expensive, as its only for the garage
Thanks
Rich
I'd like to put a ceiling in my garage, nothing fancy, just something that i can nail onto the joists to make it look a bit better and to put a couple of cheapy downlighters in etc.
What would be best to use? I thought plasterboard, but a mate said that if the garage is not damp proof, it will slowly warp, same with chipboard. What would be best to use? Musn't be too expensive, as its only for the garage
Thanks
Rich
03-06-2008, 12:52 PM
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You can get green chipboard that is damp proof, sold as loft boards.
I used it when I converted my loft - of course I was attaching it to the other side of the joists.
I used it when I converted my loft - of course I was attaching it to the other side of the joists.
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03-06-2008, 02:15 PM
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if you get exterior (wbp) plywood that would be ok, (not marine ply as that will cost a small fortune.) as said earlier screw it to the joists
if you have a pitched roof why not board over the top of the joists too and leave a hatch for access the space could be used for storage
if you have a pitched roof why not board over the top of the joists too and leave a hatch for access the space could be used for storage
03-06-2008, 02:18 PM
#15
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I used plasterboard and its been fine, pitched roof and a fairly modern garage. boarded over the top for storage and a small hatch. just have to skim over the plasterboard. I have left it over the winter to see if it would be ok before plastering and seems fine.
03-06-2008, 02:18 PM
#16
i did think about using it for storage, but its a pretty small roof, so you would never get up there between the joists! Plus my loft inside the house has nothing at all in it apart from 1 cardboard box, so i'm not exactly short on storage space
03-06-2008, 02:19 PM
#17
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duno if that was a joke.
but the stuff that replaced asbestos.
known as fibreboard, fire proof board or some even still call it asbestos.
comes in 8x4 sheets, is white and smooth glassy fibre texture. 1/4" will be fine and use 40-42mm dry wall screws rather than nails to make a solid and neat job.
its what we use in most external gararges as its damp proof. also its fire proof which is very good with a hot turbod car and petrol laying around. and also it is easily paintable if u so wish.
sod b&q mate that place is for muppets. got to ur local building supplier, travis p or similar
wouldnt bother with the hard board, unless you soak it first nail it and let it shrink dry, or ul never get it flat!!
or to be honest plaster board will prob be ok, providing its fixed properly and its not real damp in there!!
but the stuff that replaced asbestos.
known as fibreboard, fire proof board or some even still call it asbestos.
comes in 8x4 sheets, is white and smooth glassy fibre texture. 1/4" will be fine and use 40-42mm dry wall screws rather than nails to make a solid and neat job.
its what we use in most external gararges as its damp proof. also its fire proof which is very good with a hot turbod car and petrol laying around. and also it is easily paintable if u so wish.
wouldnt bother with the hard board, unless you soak it first nail it and let it shrink dry, or ul never get it flat!!
or to be honest plaster board will prob be ok, providing its fixed properly and its not real damp in there!!
03-06-2008, 02:39 PM
#18
Testing the future
duno if that was a joke.
but the stuff that replaced asbestos.
known as fibreboard, fire proof board or some even still call it asbestos.
comes in 8x4 sheets, is white and smooth glassy fibre texture. 1/4" will be fine and use 40-42mm dry wall screws rather than nails to make a solid and neat job.
its what we use in most external gararges as its damp proof. also its fire proof which is very good with a hot turbod car and petrol laying around. and also it is easily paintable if u so wish.
but the stuff that replaced asbestos.
known as fibreboard, fire proof board or some even still call it asbestos.
comes in 8x4 sheets, is white and smooth glassy fibre texture. 1/4" will be fine and use 40-42mm dry wall screws rather than nails to make a solid and neat job.
its what we use in most external gararges as its damp proof. also its fire proof which is very good with a hot turbod car and petrol laying around. and also it is easily paintable if u so wish.
03-06-2008, 03:12 PM
#20
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try some tounge and groove nice and cheap and its a one man job,might take abit longer to put up than 8x4 sheets of ply but it will look ten times better!
03-06-2008, 03:30 PM
#21
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then stick a coal fire in middle and a bucket of water with a large spoon.
get some white towels and a themometer.
wehey party sized sauna
ps toung and groove is relativly expensive compared to board, and you'll have to mitre it in if the walls are not square, and bead the edge to get a true finish
03-06-2008, 03:40 PM
#22
cheers for all the replies! Really not after anything fancy, i would nail some dead cats up there if i knew they wouldn't smell and warp a bit....
Gonna get boarding probably next weekend, will put up some piccies when i'm done
Gonna get boarding probably next weekend, will put up some piccies when i'm done
03-06-2008, 03:42 PM
#23
you can get plasterboard known as vapour check it has a foil layer to one side stops the damp getting in. For a belt and braces job pva/sealer the other side stops the damp getting in or you can buy green moisture resistant plasterboard its green both are not alot more than standard plasterboard.
Hope this helps i am in the drylining game.
Cheers
Ian
Hope this helps i am in the drylining game.
Cheers
Ian
03-06-2008, 03:49 PM
#24
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Masterboard is an external grade board, which is made for this type of thing.
foil backed plasterboard wouldnt be much good in a particularly damp garage, because the gyproc side of it would still get damp!
dont go to B&Q, go to a builders merchants it will be much cheaper.
foil backed plasterboard wouldnt be much good in a particularly damp garage, because the gyproc side of it would still get damp!
dont go to B&Q, go to a builders merchants it will be much cheaper.
03-06-2008, 03:51 PM
#25
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ues drylining screws (the black ones) bout 40mm long
make sure you have a sharp stanley blade
make up a couple of dead men sticks
if its a single gararge should have it done in an hour!
03-06-2008, 03:52 PM
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Masterboard is an external grade board, which is made for this type of thing.
foil backed plasterboard wouldnt be much good in a particularly damp garage, because the gyproc side of it would still get damp!
dont go to B&Q, go to a builders merchants it will be much cheaper.
foil backed plasterboard wouldnt be much good in a particularly damp garage, because the gyproc side of it would still get damp!
dont go to B&Q, go to a builders merchants it will be much cheaper.
03-06-2008, 04:02 PM
#28
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basically a couple of lengths of door stop or even skirting will do.
cut to the height of the celing.
i use them when tacking buy my self but can also be a god send/life saver with 2 of u.
push the board above ur head and push up into position, as you do this use a dead man on the far end.
hold it to touch board and kick bottom end into floor with foot.
then use the second on on the other side.
then u can get some screws in to fix it.
so you basically creating 2 wedges between the floor and celing enabling you to fix the board.
tips
check the floor and celing are level. if not start at the high end and shorten dead men as u go.
kick the dead men facing out both ways, if you kick them the same way they will slip and fall.
get a belt/pouch to hold drill and screws.
cut to the height of the celing.
i use them when tacking buy my self but can also be a god send/life saver with 2 of u.
push the board above ur head and push up into position, as you do this use a dead man on the far end.
hold it to touch board and kick bottom end into floor with foot.
then use the second on on the other side.
then u can get some screws in to fix it.
so you basically creating 2 wedges between the floor and celing enabling you to fix the board.
tips
check the floor and celing are level. if not start at the high end and shorten dead men as u go.
kick the dead men facing out both ways, if you kick them the same way they will slip and fall.
get a belt/pouch to hold drill and screws.
03-06-2008, 04:15 PM
#31
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is it a flat roof or a pitched roof?
if pitched why not floor-board it on top, then it gives you storage space, then just paint the underside of the floorboards white.
if pitched why not floor-board it on top, then it gives you storage space, then just paint the underside of the floorboards white.
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