what more power, whats the best way
#1
RS in the blood
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what more power, whats the best way
want to get more power out of my engine, just wanted to know whats the best upgrade bits to go 4 next, turbo, injectors, etc etc
engine spec as follows
200 Block
7.8-1 Comp
Group A Mahle Piston with Valve cuts out
Wrc high pressure oil pump
Shot pinned con rods
Lighten $ balanced crank
Group A Ported and polished head with inlet and exhaust manifolds to match
Isky double valve springs
Piper BD14 inlet cam + BD14 Exhaust cam
Piper blue vernier pulleys
W.R.C muti layer head gasket
Motorsport Light blue injectors, 3 bar map sensor
Stg 3 T34 turbo with .63 exhaust housing (oil cooled)
Collins polished - 31 actuator
421 BHP & 400 ft lbs @ 24 psi
RS 500 turbo damper
Grp a ramair cone filter
909 motorsport leads
Mocal oil cooler
Full samco boost, water and ancillary hoses (blue)
Radtec rs 500 intercooler
Radtec alloy radiator
RS 500 turbo damper
Grp a ramair cone filter
909 motorsport leads
Mocal oil cooler
Full samco boost, water and ancillary hoses (blue)
Radtec rs 500 intercooler
Radtec alloy radiator
RS 500 turbo damper
Grp a ramair cone filter
909 motorsport leads
Mocal oil cooler
Full samco boost, water and ancillary hoses (blue)
Radtec rs 500 intercooler
Radtec alloy radiator
engine spec as follows
200 Block
7.8-1 Comp
Group A Mahle Piston with Valve cuts out
Wrc high pressure oil pump
Shot pinned con rods
Lighten $ balanced crank
Group A Ported and polished head with inlet and exhaust manifolds to match
Isky double valve springs
Piper BD14 inlet cam + BD14 Exhaust cam
Piper blue vernier pulleys
W.R.C muti layer head gasket
Motorsport Light blue injectors, 3 bar map sensor
Stg 3 T34 turbo with .63 exhaust housing (oil cooled)
Collins polished - 31 actuator
421 BHP & 400 ft lbs @ 24 psi
RS 500 turbo damper
Grp a ramair cone filter
909 motorsport leads
Mocal oil cooler
Full samco boost, water and ancillary hoses (blue)
Radtec rs 500 intercooler
Radtec alloy radiator
RS 500 turbo damper
Grp a ramair cone filter
909 motorsport leads
Mocal oil cooler
Full samco boost, water and ancillary hoses (blue)
Radtec rs 500 intercooler
Radtec alloy radiator
RS 500 turbo damper
Grp a ramair cone filter
909 motorsport leads
Mocal oil cooler
Full samco boost, water and ancillary hoses (blue)
Radtec rs 500 intercooler
Radtec alloy radiator
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#10
Advanced PassionFord User
Use a lower viscosity oil and gain power through less oil drag!
Quote:
Must Have MORE Power!
Motorcars are bought for all sorts of reasons, but enthusiasts like lots of power. To get more power, a lot of fuel must be burnt, and more than half of it, sadly, gets thrown away as waste heat. For every litre of fuel burnt, 60% of the energy goes as waste heat into the exhaust and cooling system. A turbocharger can extract a few percent as useful energy and convert it into pressure on the intake side, but only 40-45% is left, and only 25% actually shows up as BHP at the flywheel. 6% goes in pumping air into the engine, 6% as oil drag losses and 2-3% as engine friction. The oil deals with 97% of the friction; so reducing the remaining few percent is not easy. If you doubt that even ordinary oil has a massive effect, take a clean, dry 200 bhp engine, connect it to a dyno and start it up. It will only make 1 bhp for a few seconds. Now that’s real friction for you!
Oddly enough, people get starry-eyed about reducing friction, especially those half-wits who peddle silly “magic additives”, which have not the smallest effect on friction but rapidly corrode bearings and wallet contents. In fact, even a virtually impossible 50% reduction in the remaining engine friction would be no big deal, perhaps one or two bhp or a couple of extra miles per gallon.
Even More Power!
He place to look for extra power is in that 6% lost as oil drag. In a well-designed modern motor, the oil doesn’t have to cover up for wide clearances, poor oil pump capacity or flexy crankshafts, so it can be quite thin. How thin? Well take a look at these dyno results.
A while ago now, we ran three performance oils in a Honda Blackbird motorcycle. this fearsome device is fitted with a light, compact, naturally aspirated 1100cc engine which turns out 120+ bhp at the back wheel. The normal fill for this one-year-old engine was 15w-50, so the first reading was taken using a fresh sump-fill of this grade. (The dyno was set up for EEC horsepower, i.e. Pessimistic)
15w-50
Max Power 127.9 bhp @ 9750 rpm
Torque 75.8 ft-lbs @ 7300 rpm
After a flush-out and fill up with 5w-40 the readings were;
5w-40
Max Power 131.6 bhp @ 9750 rpm
Torque 77.7 ft-lbs @ 7400 rpm
Then we tried an experimental grade, 0w-20 yes, 0w-20! This wasn’t as risky as you may think, because this grade had already done a season’s racing with the Kawasaki World Superbike Team, giving them some useful extra power with no reliability problems. (But it must be said, they were only interested in 200 frantic miles before the engines went back to Japan)
0w-20
Max Power 134.4 bhp @ 9750 rpm
Torque 78.9 ft-lbs @ 7400 rpm
In other words, 3.7 bhp / 2.9% increase from 15w-50 to 5w-40, a 2.8 bhp / 2.1% increase from 5w-40 to 0w-20 or a 6.5 bhp / 5% overall. Not bad, just for changing the oil! More to the point, a keen bike owner would have paid at least £1000 to see less improvement than this using the conventional approach of exhaust/intake mods, ignition re-mapping etc.
Unquote:
Cheers
Simon
Quote:
Must Have MORE Power!
Motorcars are bought for all sorts of reasons, but enthusiasts like lots of power. To get more power, a lot of fuel must be burnt, and more than half of it, sadly, gets thrown away as waste heat. For every litre of fuel burnt, 60% of the energy goes as waste heat into the exhaust and cooling system. A turbocharger can extract a few percent as useful energy and convert it into pressure on the intake side, but only 40-45% is left, and only 25% actually shows up as BHP at the flywheel. 6% goes in pumping air into the engine, 6% as oil drag losses and 2-3% as engine friction. The oil deals with 97% of the friction; so reducing the remaining few percent is not easy. If you doubt that even ordinary oil has a massive effect, take a clean, dry 200 bhp engine, connect it to a dyno and start it up. It will only make 1 bhp for a few seconds. Now that’s real friction for you!
Oddly enough, people get starry-eyed about reducing friction, especially those half-wits who peddle silly “magic additives”, which have not the smallest effect on friction but rapidly corrode bearings and wallet contents. In fact, even a virtually impossible 50% reduction in the remaining engine friction would be no big deal, perhaps one or two bhp or a couple of extra miles per gallon.
Even More Power!
He place to look for extra power is in that 6% lost as oil drag. In a well-designed modern motor, the oil doesn’t have to cover up for wide clearances, poor oil pump capacity or flexy crankshafts, so it can be quite thin. How thin? Well take a look at these dyno results.
A while ago now, we ran three performance oils in a Honda Blackbird motorcycle. this fearsome device is fitted with a light, compact, naturally aspirated 1100cc engine which turns out 120+ bhp at the back wheel. The normal fill for this one-year-old engine was 15w-50, so the first reading was taken using a fresh sump-fill of this grade. (The dyno was set up for EEC horsepower, i.e. Pessimistic)
15w-50
Max Power 127.9 bhp @ 9750 rpm
Torque 75.8 ft-lbs @ 7300 rpm
After a flush-out and fill up with 5w-40 the readings were;
5w-40
Max Power 131.6 bhp @ 9750 rpm
Torque 77.7 ft-lbs @ 7400 rpm
Then we tried an experimental grade, 0w-20 yes, 0w-20! This wasn’t as risky as you may think, because this grade had already done a season’s racing with the Kawasaki World Superbike Team, giving them some useful extra power with no reliability problems. (But it must be said, they were only interested in 200 frantic miles before the engines went back to Japan)
0w-20
Max Power 134.4 bhp @ 9750 rpm
Torque 78.9 ft-lbs @ 7400 rpm
In other words, 3.7 bhp / 2.9% increase from 15w-50 to 5w-40, a 2.8 bhp / 2.1% increase from 5w-40 to 0w-20 or a 6.5 bhp / 5% overall. Not bad, just for changing the oil! More to the point, a keen bike owner would have paid at least £1000 to see less improvement than this using the conventional approach of exhaust/intake mods, ignition re-mapping etc.
Unquote:
Cheers
Simon
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