didnt PM/Email this Q as it may be of interest to others...

Q) are you able to set my car up with a small blow from the middlebox of the exhaust?

i assume on most cars this would be impossible, but can you use the holes in the downpipes to plug in your AFR gear? or does this mess everyhting up coz u need to keep the std lambda connected?

ps i hope you say yes as i cant afford a new exhaust right now

 

should you be spending money on setting up when you cant even afford to fix a exhaust?

 

galbally bodgineering strikes again

 

 

Well with an exh leak you cant put the probe up the tail pipe and get a reading!!!

So I think you better save for a new exh rather than a remap matey.

alex

 

or even cheaper get it welded!

 

Firegum!

 

try a turbo zet, good for 40BHP as I recall

 

Jim, use some exhaust wrap and some exhaust paste to block the whole up. Done this on an exhaust before with a 1inch whole in it and it worked fine

 

yeah bodge it jim - it the only way to achieve big reliable power!

 

Jeez and this idiot has the cheek to think he can teach me

Flamesuit ON

 

 

erm, wtf

the middlebox has a small split in it. this cannot be welded (its been tried, but didnt succeed)

to fix it will cost about 200quid.

car's been booked into stu since the day i bought it, and is going in for a setup + faultfinding on why its so thirsty on fuel (possible management/sensor related fault) its NOT going in for a remap

if this exhaust blow is a problem, i will get it fixed beforehand, if not, it can wait till the end of the month when i get paid.

its more important imho to get the fault looked at than it is the exhaust blow. i'm PRIORITISING

aklex, as for airleak throwing out readings, im aware of that, hence the Question, can this be got around by using the downpipe lambda bosses (which ofcourse will mean the readings will not be out) or will it have to use an "up the pipe" probe and therefore i'll have to get the exhaust fixed beforehand.

 

YOur engine needs the data from its lambda probe, so its an up the tail pipe job!

Alex

 

thats what i was thiking alex, but wasnt sure if there was some clever electronig gadgetry they use so you can retain the std signal to the ECU and also a signal to the decent AFR equipment

 

the exhaust blowing will probably be affecting your fuel ecconomy

 

agreed spiky, but i havea fe things that lead me to suspect a fault:

1) fuel pump constantly running when ignition switched on (indicated LOS)
2) wiring is a MESS to the ECU,easily could be a wiring problem
3) hesitation at low throttle/rpm
4) DRINKS fuel (im getting about 200 to a tank on motorways!)
5) oil smells of fuel
6) drives like SHIT when cold
7) nowhere near as fast as it should be
8) disconnecting certain sensors (like the airflow sensor!!) makes NO difference to how the car drives at all!!!!

you add al that up and i think ive got a fault somewhere :P

anyway if stu says exhaust no problem then great

if he says it is a problem then i'll obviously have to get it done

anyway ive got over a month til i'm booked in! lol

 

There is indeed.. and i have it
I also have a display that shows me how much air your leak is affecting my readings

But it still needs fixing you tw@

 

Well....


















At least this one sounds better than your last one Jim

 

This Sierra is like that Mark Morrisson song.....Return of the nail

 

what a classic jim and you advise on tuneing and setting up cars sounds like it would cost you more to get to blackpool than the cars worth

 

yeah thats a good point, whats the petrol gonna cost ya if its doing that

oh and ya wont get 200 miles to a tank if ya doing 130

 

most wideband lambda sensor controllers also have a narrow band simulated output so that the original ecu can still have a signal

exhaust leaks are dangerous for other reasons, most notable that if the exhaust gasses are coming in to the cabin, they could cause you to feel drowsy and fall asleep at the wheel. particularly on a long journey. to blackpool for example.

 

how is the ecu wired up on that anyway jim ??
as you might know theres an easy way and a hard way

 

rad, dunno... but some of the wires have been CRIMPED on the ECU multiplug and it loks a proper mess down there...

alan, whats me answering techy questions got to do with my own car having a management fault?

 

AROFLMFAO

Best of luck Stu - you're gonna need it.

 

jim
some people use the simple way to wire these engines up and unfortunatly can cause a few sensor or general running probs basicly if its done the easy way the ecu is powered up using 5 wires( if i remember correctly) and then they use the original engine loom bodged onto that

the proper( i hate that word) way to do it is to use certain extra parts of the original 24v loom which has all the proper connections on it . dont get me wrong im not saying yours is bodged or done badly i just think it might be worth pulling the loom and reconnecting wires properly . im gna be using the easy route when i can be bothered to do it ...

 

its got a 24v loom on the enginebay... so that means its not the easy way?

 

no they both use the engine loom , but it depends if the engine loom is conected to the ecu via plugs or diy crimps . i mean ur still using 1 coil per cylinder arent you so that must be connected to the engine loom via the proper plug . but how is the main ecu wired up ? is the main power to it run direct off the battery or is it spliced into the loom ? the easy way to tell is , does it have a proper 24v loom section containing all the relay's or are there 4 relays wired up seperatly to it ?

 

not sure TBH

i think the loom goes straight to the multiplug and only a few wires are spliced into main car-loom

 

ok , according to my m8 who puts these motors in allsorts there should be 12 or 13 wires off the ecu , some of them go to the dash clocks etc etc . there should be 2 relays (not 4 ) one to turn the ecu on and one for the fuel pump . removing the plug off the airflow should stop the car running or make it run like shit . the fuel pump running constantly either means you have a fuel leak or incorrectly wired relay .
if you get really stuck with this , let me know and i will try and pass you on to a guy who can deffo help you with it . and if he cant he should be able to speak to a guy (big john) whos put these motors in allsorts of crazy shit including transits , calibra's etc etc and knows these motors inside out . sorry i cant be of any help bud .

 

just rememebred, it dosnt actually stay on all the time just primes for about 20secsonds+

as for the sensors, disconnecting AFM makes fack all difference.

i could check all the wiring and sensor voltages myself, but thatd take feckin ages, and i'd rather just wait and pay sume to do it for me

 

That is really bad news Jim.....

 

i can see stu fitting pectel for ya jimbo, better start saving now

 

Are you expeting Stu to fix all these problems and do it all in a day ?

Are you also expecting a bill around a few hundred quid for all these problems?

Stu i really dont envy your job when jim arrives

 

i can see doing just and scrapping the fooker

 

sadly i found that very founny

 

Im pleased someone else did... i thought it was another masterpiece

 

Not looking too good Jim. Think you should get a cossie

 

The wiring is a mess Jim, thats your main problem, before you take your car to Stu take the thottle body off and clean, they are a fooker for stuffing up low rpm grunt.