fao cvh tuners/big power cvh drivers ???
18-02-2008, 10:52 PM
#41
Originally Posted by mitchrst
Originally Posted by Garage19
400 ft/lb of torque low down is not what you want in a fwd car. It will be total crap to drive.
How can a stock mk2 mondeo head cost more than a worked over cvh?
If you want more performance still you can pick a st170 head up for about £250 and i expect that that will outflow most worked cvh heads without a problem.
If you think torque low down is not good just check out turboboss's 100 - 150 time will beat most 16 valves
seans done really well with his car ,
bloody weapon lol
18-02-2008, 10:58 PM
#42
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Originally Posted by Mondeo Man
Originally Posted by Shings
Originally Posted by jacko
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-ESCORT-RST-COSWORTH-GARTRAC-RWD-ROLLING-SHELL_W0QQitemZ170194646434QQihZ007QQcategoryZ2165 4QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
thats what you need mate
thats what you need mate
Run a mile.. thats Spadges old one- it hit something very big and very hard.
SIDE WAYS
As for 8v heads NMS is the best place to go for one... but I wouldn't count on the secrets being let out- Karl works hard to obtain the power and relaitive reliability out of em- and as for PumaRacing - thanks to recent threads.... PMSL
He knows his shit
over 400bhp and 400ftlbs from a zvh is no mean feat and he builds some great engines. That site is a usefull resource for both cvh and pug gti tuning
Ahhh but you can see where I got the mix up... ref Dojj's post on his brakes
18-02-2008, 11:00 PM
#43
............
Originally Posted by Shings
Originally Posted by Mondeo Man
Originally Posted by Shings
Originally Posted by jacko
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-ESCORT-RST-COSWORTH-GARTRAC-RWD-ROLLING-SHELL_W0QQitemZ170194646434QQihZ007QQcategoryZ2165 4QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
thats what you need mate
thats what you need mate
Run a mile.. thats Spadges old one- it hit something very big and very hard.
SIDE WAYS
As for 8v heads NMS is the best place to go for one... but I wouldn't count on the secrets being let out- Karl works hard to obtain the power and relaitive reliability out of em- and as for PumaRacing - thanks to recent threads.... PMSL
He knows his shit
over 400bhp and 400ftlbs from a zvh is no mean feat and he builds some great engines. That site is a usefull resource for both cvh and pug gti tuning
Ahhh but you can see where I got the mix up... ref Dojj's post on his brakes
18-02-2008, 11:09 PM
#45
Originally Posted by jacko
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-ESCORT-RST-COSWORTH-GARTRAC-RWD-ROLLING-SHELL_W0QQitemZ170194646434QQihZ007QQcategoryZ2165 4QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
thats what you need mate
thats what you need mate
fuck knows how he managed this
18-02-2008, 11:25 PM
#49
although
if you look in the ebay pics its had a new roof fitted and extensive rebuild work around the passenger a pillar ect ??
wonder who he got to do the work
and why if he paid to get the work done why isnt he keeping it himself ??
if you look in the ebay pics its had a new roof fitted and extensive rebuild work around the passenger a pillar ect ??
wonder who he got to do the work
and why if he paid to get the work done why isnt he keeping it himself ??
20-02-2008, 05:14 PM
#50
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didnt look at it properly but if it was spadges old one it crashed because the rear end was out of line and when he let off throttle it went pear shaped
20-02-2008, 10:28 PM
#52
15K+ Super Poster!!
Originally Posted by Garage19
Originally Posted by Rick
if it's a 45mm valve, make sure it's made of unobtanium, as you WILL drop one...
Do you mean titanium and why will he drop one?
Alot of bike tuners are taking the stock tit valvs out of bike engines and replacing them with traditional stainless ones when they tune the engine as they have found the tit ones un reliable / less duarble.
I theory the tit valve should be more reliable due to the lighter weight, less reciprocating mass, less forces but certainly with suzuki made ones it doesn't seem to be that way at the moment.
It's the achilies heel of the cvh. The valves are so big, they fatigue and the exhuast head drops off. Tims done it, i've done it, plus countless others despite being ceramic coated too.
20-02-2008, 10:36 PM
#53
Originally Posted by Rick
Originally Posted by Garage19
Originally Posted by Rick
if it's a 45mm valve, make sure it's made of unobtanium, as you WILL drop one...
Do you mean titanium and why will he drop one?
Alot of bike tuners are taking the stock tit valvs out of bike engines and replacing them with traditional stainless ones when they tune the engine as they have found the tit ones un reliable / less duarble.
I theory the tit valve should be more reliable due to the lighter weight, less reciprocating mass, less forces but certainly with suzuki made ones it doesn't seem to be that way at the moment.
It's the achilies heel of the cvh. The valves are so big, they fatigue and the exhuast head drops off. Tims done it, i've done it, plus countless others despite being ceramic coated too.
ok ???
firstly the 45.mm valve is used inlet side rick
u just said that its the achilles heel
" there so big they fatigue and the exhaust head drops off "
but if you read what i said at the begining mate i was saying i had no intention of changing the exhaust valve size ???
yes they will be upgraded to stainless but no size increase ,
so wtf you going on about ????????
beef
20-02-2008, 10:40 PM
#54
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Originally Posted by beefy-rst-2
Originally Posted by Rick
Originally Posted by Garage19
Originally Posted by Rick
if it's a 45mm valve, make sure it's made of unobtanium, as you WILL drop one...
Do you mean titanium and why will he drop one?
Alot of bike tuners are taking the stock tit valvs out of bike engines and replacing them with traditional stainless ones when they tune the engine as they have found the tit ones un reliable / less duarble.
I theory the tit valve should be more reliable due to the lighter weight, less reciprocating mass, less forces but certainly with suzuki made ones it doesn't seem to be that way at the moment.
It's the achilies heel of the cvh. The valves are so big, they fatigue and the exhuast head drops off. Tims done it, i've done it, plus countless others despite being ceramic coated too.
ok ???
firstly the 45.mm valve is used inlet side rick
u just said that its the achilles heel
" there so big they fatigue and the exhaust head drops off "
but if you read what i said at the begining mate i was saying i had no intention of changing the exhaust valve size ???
yes they will be upgraded to stainless but no size increase ,
so wtf you going on about ????????
beef
It's not too big a job to have them changed every 8k or so though, they are inexpensive and the whole job isn't too dear either.
20-02-2008, 10:45 PM
#56
but thats not what its coming across as ,
not being funny rick , but do u know what ur on about , ??????
and to be honest bud-weis i think with any high power high torque motor theres going to be alot of maintance that come with it ,
if the motorhad done 10 k , then id pull the head and sum off to inspect the motor .
like u said the valves aint that expensive
not being funny rick , but do u know what ur on about , ??????
and to be honest bud-weis i think with any high power high torque motor theres going to be alot of maintance that come with it ,
if the motorhad done 10 k , then id pull the head and sum off to inspect the motor .
like u said the valves aint that expensive
20-02-2008, 10:48 PM
#57
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I've spoke with Karl about CVH tuning before.....he has spent sooo much time looking for a way around the valve problem, and put simply he said there isn't a way around it....the valves need changing on big power CVH's at regular intervals, as people above have said.
but like you say, with a modded motor these things are expected.
but like you say, with a modded motor these things are expected.
20-02-2008, 10:49 PM
#58
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bud-weis
Correct, and yes i realise it's the inlet valve thats the big one... There is little point in going that big on the inlet if you're not changing the exhaust, and stainless isn't an upgrade - they're shit. You could rip it it apart every 5k, but i do that in 10 weeks.
Correct, and yes i realise it's the inlet valve thats the big one... There is little point in going that big on the inlet if you're not changing the exhaust, and stainless isn't an upgrade - they're shit. You could rip it it apart every 5k, but i do that in 10 weeks.
20-02-2008, 10:55 PM
#59
Originally Posted by Rick
bud-weis
Correct, and yes i realise it's the inlet valve thats the big one... There is little point in going that big on the inlet if you're not changing the exhaust, and stainless isn't an upgrade - they're shit. You could rip it it apart every 5k, but i do that in 10 weeks.
Correct, and yes i realise it's the inlet valve thats the big one... There is little point in going that big on the inlet if you're not changing the exhaust, and stainless isn't an upgrade - they're shit. You could rip it it apart every 5k, but i do that in 10 weeks.
yeah id probably do 5 k in as many months ,
and as for " theres little point going that big a inlet if your not changing the exhaust "
THATS THE EXACT REASON I CREATED THE BLOODY POST IN THE FIRST PLACE
because i was asking the tuners advice on wether the exhaust valves need changing or is there already big enough as standard , as ive had conflicting advice so far ???
sooo seeing as youve spoke to karl and ollie rick ,
for a 2.1 zvh, with max flow head running 45 mm inlets ,
what do u recomennd for the exhausts bud
beef
20-02-2008, 11:05 PM
#60
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Originally Posted by beefy-rst-2
Originally Posted by Rick
bud-weis
Correct, and yes i realise it's the inlet valve thats the big one... There is little point in going that big on the inlet if you're not changing the exhaust, and stainless isn't an upgrade - they're shit. You could rip it it apart every 5k, but i do that in 10 weeks.
Correct, and yes i realise it's the inlet valve thats the big one... There is little point in going that big on the inlet if you're not changing the exhaust, and stainless isn't an upgrade - they're shit. You could rip it it apart every 5k, but i do that in 10 weeks.
yeah id probably do 5 k in as many months ,
and as for " theres little point going that big a inlet if your not changing the exhaust "
THATS THE EXACT REASON I CREATED THE BLOODY POST IN THE FIRST PLACE
because i was asking the tuners advice on wether the exhaust valves need changing or is there already big enough as standard , as ive had conflicting advice so far ???
sooo seeing as youve spoke to karl and ollie rick ,
for a 2.1 zvh, with max flow head running 45 mm inlets ,
what do u recomennd for the exhausts bud
beef
Karl is your man though
20-02-2008, 11:11 PM
#61
15K+ Super Poster!!
Karl did my head.
It had ceramic coated exhaust valves in stainless which did last longer than i thought they would. I am going to be doing another CVH for someone soon, and for that I am going to try a custom made titanium alloy which is pricey - and isn't guaranteed. That's a 1600 though, so CVH head is all good. I really would go to a zetec head if I were you - its cheaper and more reliable.
It had ceramic coated exhaust valves in stainless which did last longer than i thought they would. I am going to be doing another CVH for someone soon, and for that I am going to try a custom made titanium alloy which is pricey - and isn't guaranteed. That's a 1600 though, so CVH head is all good. I really would go to a zetec head if I were you - its cheaper and more reliable.
20-02-2008, 11:52 PM
#62
Originally Posted by bud-weis
Originally Posted by beefy-rst-2
Originally Posted by Rick
bud-weis
Correct, and yes i realise it's the inlet valve thats the big one... There is little point in going that big on the inlet if you're not changing the exhaust, and stainless isn't an upgrade - they're shit. You could rip it it apart every 5k, but i do that in 10 weeks.
Correct, and yes i realise it's the inlet valve thats the big one... There is little point in going that big on the inlet if you're not changing the exhaust, and stainless isn't an upgrade - they're shit. You could rip it it apart every 5k, but i do that in 10 weeks.
yeah id probably do 5 k in as many months ,
and as for " theres little point going that big a inlet if your not changing the exhaust "
THATS THE EXACT REASON I CREATED THE BLOODY POST IN THE FIRST PLACE
because i was asking the tuners advice on wether the exhaust valves need changing or is there already big enough as standard , as ive had conflicting advice so far ???
sooo seeing as youve spoke to karl and ollie rick ,
for a 2.1 zvh, with max flow head running 45 mm inlets ,
what do u recomennd for the exhausts bud
beef
Karl is your man though
will be going bronze rifle gudes mate
21-02-2008, 07:15 AM
#64
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spadges car deffo had a problem with the rear end being out of line and thats defo why it crashed if i could find the post he put up id show ya but i cant
the whole rear suspension was over to one side so as you accelerate it put load on it when you release it letts it off
so dont pretend you have a clue lol
the whole rear suspension was over to one side so as you accelerate it put load on it when you release it letts it off
so dont pretend you have a clue lol
21-02-2008, 07:15 AM
#65
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beefy-rst-2
I'm not sure where u have that idea from, but it's not really true. For a start, a huge torque spike is crap in FWD. The Zetec will still have a huge amount - it will just hold onto it longer. This is why the 1600's are the fastest - they produce good torque, but keep making it across the rev range, making the car very driveable. It's true that very peaky cars are hard to drive fast, but trust me u will never have a lack of torque in an RST.
I've had mine for 9 years, driven every day with countless engine specs. I'm not trying to piss you off - but the ZVH has to be the worst one
I'm not sure where u have that idea from, but it's not really true. For a start, a huge torque spike is crap in FWD. The Zetec will still have a huge amount - it will just hold onto it longer. This is why the 1600's are the fastest - they produce good torque, but keep making it across the rev range, making the car very driveable. It's true that very peaky cars are hard to drive fast, but trust me u will never have a lack of torque in an RST.
I've had mine for 9 years, driven every day with countless engine specs. I'm not trying to piss you off - but the ZVH has to be the worst one
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