If fitted to a YB, with 500+ BHP spec cams, what could you safley rev the engine to with a decent bottom end, and what is the maintainance like, ie how often would they need checking/ shimming? Are they any noisier than hydraulic ones if correctly set?

 

9K+

But my idea of "decent spec bottom end" might be different to yours, as it involves things like a farndon crank a set of arrow rods, some forged pistons and a dry sump.

 

PS

slight bit of noise if set correctly, but far less than the average set of 100K old hydraulics, and they dont need setting as often as people make out, you will be putting new rings in before you need to adjust them probably on that sort of spec engine!

 

they wount need checking once the clearnce are done its like any other part in the engine like piston to bore clearnce ther is a certen gap that has to be met usally when the car gets noisey then check wear on the shim or cam lobe

 

If you are planning on trying out different cams, then make sure they are on EXACTLY the same base circle, then you can just swap them about without re-shimming

 

Would prob be on a std bottom end thats been lightened and balanced with ARP rod bolts, low comp and freshly rebuilt.

Your "decent" bottom end is a bit more "Mega" bottom end I think . I have got a set of Arrow rods but didnt fit them to my latest build as it was never going to really be over 500BHP..

 

My nova is on arrow rods, and steel crank etc, to me thats just what you do when building a 500bhp high revving engine, although ive not got round to dry sumping it yet, will do once its run in probably though.

If you are on a standard bottom end, then hydraulics are probably fine for your requirements TBH, especially if you are on the standard oil pump which I wouldnt want to trust beyond the 8200 or so hydraulics will cope at.

 

Std cossie crank is all steel as you prob know, good for 600+ as advised by a few very reputable tuners, and got a 5 bar oil pump. Was just wondering really as If I do go GT30 ext in the future it would make the powerband a bit bigger at the top I thought the weak link would be the std valves?

 

5 bar oil pump wont stop it cavitating at higher RPM.

Im sure you can manage with the standard crank, but given that you didnt mention being on a budget at all in your original post, I put what I would consider an ideal spec for a big RPM motor running 9K+, i dont think many decent tuners would advise you using a standard crank for that TBH

 

GT30 power band does not require rpm limit above 8200rpm on a YB so you will be fine on hydraulics.

However I do run standard crank engines up to 8500rpm, but again on a GT30 engine you'll simply not be making power up to that rpm.

 

On the subject, do you think a GT35 is too big for a road car? 2.0 engine.

 

Yes, nasty laggy things compared to a GT30, and 500bhp+ is plenty for a road car IMHO

Depends on your own outlook on what makes a good car though at the end of the day!

 

I do not recommend GT35's on a 2.0YB engine when using the 2wd exhaust manifold as the turbo has a late boost threshold (usually 4500rpm) and a tendancy to surge in the 4500rpm to 6500rpm range.

However with a suitably specced tubular manifold the GT35 can work well on a 2.0YB, but certainly not what I would recommend as a road going engine.

For nice engine manners, keep with a GT30 on 2.0YB's or go for 2.2/2.3 if using a GT35.

 

Power everywhere, not at 78,000 RPM ...

I ask as I have a brand new GT35 sat under my desk looking bored ... YB's don't take stroking/boreing to 2.2/2.3 very well so I have heard? , apparently the old 2.4 conversions were quite slow revving?

Just wondering about the big capacity route as well as apparently the Evo engines (6/7/8) , and I know they are a completely different beast , go to 2.3 easy and a GT35 on those is phenominal?

 

Going to a 84mm crank and 92.5mm bore is possible on the std block and with the correct piston/rod design acceptable rod/stroke ratio can be maintained to allow a sensible 8000rpm limit. Add a GT35 to the right engine with this crank/bore size and you have 600bhp+ potential with great road car manners.

Obviously not a cheap route however!

 

Swap the GT35 for a GT30!

 

Ok, I have a 200 block ona 0.5 fresh overbore, with 6 centre long studs, GT 35, std/std crank, set of std length arrow H section rods, 8.5:1 forged pistons (J.E) sat in a box ( all bought a few years ago when I knew a lot less than I know now )...

What would be the most cost effective way of doing this 2.3 engine? I assume I would sell everything bar the GT35 and 200 block and go from there? what would the head spec / cams have to be like, as I already have a 25/26mm ported 2wd head and a new BD16 and BD 14 exhaust?

Rough costs please?

 

Swap the GT35 for a GT30, keep everything else you have, problem solved.

 

I was considering this

 

None of what you list is suitable for going to 2.3.

Go with Chips advice.

 

What would be the rough cost for a 2.3?

 

Thats a VERY vague question.

Anything from Ł10K to Ł20K, depends on spec.

 

What are the variables?

 

Too many to discuss on here. Sorry would take far too long to type.

 

Without being funny mate, I think you need to first come up with a budget, and then with that in mind, start discussing things with a tuner (Karl being a good choice of course) as its a big drain on time for them to discuss eleventy seven possible different specs for 500bhp only to find out you have a 400bhp budget.

No offence intended there, just being honest!

 

Oi stupid listen to someone for once just put the car back together and on the bloody road!

 

Different engine bone-head

 

I have built several GT30 engines on solid lifters, you may not be making decent power at 8k+ but on track when you want to hold a gear rather than changing up they serve a purpose. The engine feels a lot nicer at high revs too.. When building a new engine the cost is not that much higher to go solid (I can supply lifters and shims at decent prices) so well worth considering..

 

Martin (and getting back to original post) I agree, solids are a worthy addition to a track car just becuase of the increased control they offer and nothing at all to do with the extra RPM.

When you hear cars come in at the end of a track session and they are down on power and clattering away cause of the hot oil not working the hydraulics as well, its easy to see why people want shot of them, its that reason that I converted my car to solids more than anything else.

 

So what would the fresh, standard, arp'd bottom end safely rev to with hyd followers and a dry sump (so no oil pump worries) ?

Cheers,

WD

 

If you shotpeen the rods and take any stress raisers off them, about 9K if you feel like taking chances.

But you have to ask yourself WHY are you revving an asmathic shitty old YB to that in the first place?

 

Thanks

I have a pair of 14’s and a mildly ported head but I had in mind a limit of 7.5K, seems that could be stretched a little if it holds onto its power

 

Ive seen people running a totally standard engine to a 8200rpm limit without problems.

 

what cams to go with gt30?