if i'm not getting EXACTLY lambda 1.0 at idle can you draw any conculsions from that? ie does that indicate a fault somewhere?

and yes car has lambda sensors and should i beleive run closed loop

 

What year is your engine and mgmt?

 

'91 eec4

 

No, does'nt have to run lambda at idle. Less than 3.5% CO is acceptable.

 

what are you saying karl? that less than 3.5% CO is acceptable for an emmisions test?

cos that doesn't seem to be what jim is asking. he thinks that when properly warmed up, his idle stategy should stick around stoichemetric. and if it doesn't, doesn't that indicate a sensor failure or something?

because apart from switching back and forth around stoich., how des the ecu know what CO it's running at?

how are you measuring this jim?

 

you mean doesnt have to in the "itll pass an MOT" sense or as in "theres nothing wrong with the management/engine" sense?

dont give a shit about the MOT emissions, just wanna check the car's running mint

 

what am I saying foreignRS?

I'm telling Jim what acceptable emissions are for his car at idle, (i.e. Mot passable) though I'd normally expect to see them around 1 - 1.5%.

 

karl, thats not what im asking, foreignRS clarified things somewhat

as i am thinking if its not bang on lambda 1 then there must be somethng wrong somewhere

this was on a proper gas anyliser by the way, sun jobbie and performed in proper manner etc.

 

Well Jim, it's a very simple test to make. Hold the car at cruise (e.g. 3000rpm) on your anylser and see if it runs at lambda 1. If it does everything is fine.

I run my pug at lambda 1 at cruise above 2000rpm, but since it is'nt cat equiped as yours is'nt I revert to non lambda control and 2% CO at idle.

 

does the not having a cat bit confuse the ECU or anything?

 

No, but incorrect fueling can fuck a cat if you have one.

I've told you the answer, your car does not have to run closed loop control at idle, so if you want to make sure the lambda stategy still works correctly, monitor the fueling at cruise which should be lambda 1.

I'd expect your idle Co to be around 1 - 1.5% CO, though up to 3.5% is MOT passable.

 

not really... i'm not clear if youre saying that that it SHOULD at idle. ie if its TRYING to run lambda 1 at idle or not. cozif it is supposed to be, and it aint, then there's a problem yeah? but if its not trying to then its nothing to be alarmed about... yeah?

i was initially concerned about my cars poor performance and fuel guzzling alility (200miles to a tank) but on the journey to fordsport and back (which was 99% cruise at sensible speed) it returned very good mpg, so now i'm not sure if theres a problem or not.

the car is booked in to be looked at, but if there's a fault and it requires replacement parts its unlikely it can be fixed same-day so i figure anything i can check myself with mr. multimeter and mr. fault code reader i may aswell do before going up.

 

Jim your very first sentance was:

"if i'm not getting EXACTLY lambda 1.0 at idle can you draw any conculsions from that"

My very first word in my very first reply was NO.

Too difficult to understand??

I also said later on that to check if your lambda stategy works, test that the car runs at lambda 1 at light cruise. (i.e. not at idle)

 

0.98 - 1.02 is std strategy on the Cosworth V6 at both idle and increased idle Jim.
If your outside these figures id expect you have either:

A) An air leak.
B) A lazy lambda sensor
C) An emmisions valve failure.

Hope this helps...

 

an emissions valve? what's that? lol

 

i know what you're saying karl

 

If Stu says the car should run lambda 1 at idle on a std ecu then it should run that once the engine is warm. Of the few cossie V6's I seen (in mk2 escorts I may add) none ran lambda at idle but did at light cruise.

Given the age of the engine it does'nt need to run lambda 1 at idle, unless specifically mapped to do so.

 

what are any advantages/disadvantages of not running lambda=1 at idle karl?

i would've thought that you would want to run lamda = 1 as much as possible to give the cleanest (not necessarily in terms of emmisions) burn?

 

That is one of the problems of having a converted car Jim... thats what

 

bollocks

feck it stu, i'll just let you fix it

i assume that if i switch to a different ECU then these problems are no longer relevant?

ps did you get my email alrite about my booking and chip n stuff? cant rememebr if you replied or not

 

I can imagine....



Oh Joy....


If you want to run lambda control Jim, the fact you may have a knackered lambda sensor is quite relevant


How do you expect me to remember if you cant?

 

cooooooooooooooont

 

The EGR is a pile of shite that doesn't do an awful lot, the conversion usually involves throwing it towards the nearest skip - what's the problem

 

ECU trouble Codes 327 through to 334 are generally a twat to get rid of if we cant rectify the fact that the ECU isnt at all happy the owner "Threw them in the nearest skip" thats the problem...

 

 

Need to leave the "map" sensor connected and block off all the horrible vacuum leaks, then it runs fine

 

sean, there is no map sensor on the 24v!

 

Hence the inverted commas chap - the little black thing that connects to the exhaust take off on the manifold - all the rest of the stuff can go though...

 

So basically, you DIDNT throw teh system in teh nearest skip at all then?

 

Nope, only the bit that recirculates exhaust gases into the plenum - sod that, engine full of enough crap already.....
Is what I have done a good enough bodge to get the engine running right? It ran perfectly when I got it all sorted, shame the oil leak due to the incompetent mechanic at Ford has killed it again

 

jim now what u broke