Charlie Chalk

iTrader: (1)

Right, the HG seems to be ok, its not pressurising, theres no creamy oil cap and the waters fine....


For some reason, when driving.. after about 15 minutes, the temps go sky high

What could be fucked?

There dont seem to be any leaks either at all

Karl

Change thermostat, and if your water pump is working fine, fit a new alloy rad if all else fails. An old rad gets lined with scale internally that cannot be cleaned out which vastly reduces its efficency.

Charlie Chalk

iTrader: (1)

Water pump has just bee changed, so all good there!


Anyway I could test the rad?

anodised

could be a blocked rad clean the system out

MAD EVO 4

Mate you sure you haven't got an air lock some where in the coolant system from changine the water pump ??

Charlie Chalk

iTrader: (1)

No air locks mate! been checked


Looks like its all coming out tomorrow then

JohnnyB

thats what I was thinking

haz87

You didnt go o.t.t with the sealant and block up the system somewhere

Karl

It will be obvious if the cooling circiut is actually flowing correctly by testing the heat of the various hoses with your hand. A blockage or air lock will show up as a much cooler hose when touching each coolant pipe under the bonnet.

If everything appears ok, then with regards to your radiator, change it if it is over 5 years old regardless. Radiators suffer a huge performance reduction over time, regardless of use. There apears to be a chemical reaction that occurs within the coolant system that lines the rad cores reducing its efficency. Obviously this advice is only applicable if you have checked all other possible issues, as a poorly opening thermostat is far more likely.

Charlie Chalk

iTrader: (1)

Cheers Karl


Not going Jap Show no more, so will work on it all day

JjCoDeX75

If the coolant system is okay, then make sure that your engine earthing strap is in good order. When mine went, it led to sky high readings on the cage that were not corroborated by the ECT reading.

Cheers mate

JJ

Charlie Chalk

iTrader: (1)

Will check it tomorrow JJ, but the waters boiling up in the header tank? would that happen

JjCoDeX75

Hmmm - IIRC the correct temp for the coolant is around th 80-90 deg mark depending on various items.

Probably a stupid question, but your fans are cutting in when she gets hot? IF not, then the temp of the coolant in the rad will be low, or the fan circuit could be fucked (either relay or even sender). Check the temp of the coolant at the bottom of the rad.

JJ

tabetha

Is it actually getting too hot or just you think it is ?
The expansion tank WILL bubble, as it degasses the cooling system, even when it has nor been touched for years there will always be air generated due to cavitation at the water pump.
Just see how you heater is, if nice and hot water is circulating so that rules the pump out.
Feel top and bottom hose, bottom should be much cooler than top, so rad is not blocked.
Now leave idling until fan cuts in, does it cut out again, if so all is fine it is doing what it should.
Define what you mean by sky high ?, you may just have a dodgy gauge.
At the end of the day if it does not overheat in traffic and fan cuts in out it is working ok, leaving you to fix the temp gauge, maybe just the sender ?
tabetha

zippyobrien

iTrader: (2)

when the header tak on the rs cracked, it depresurised the system causing the water to boil at a lower temp,

check your headertank, or rad cap

dojj

iTrader: (3)

remove the thermostat to rule that out first of all
it's the cheapest and quickest option so most easily checked if you are going to start spannering

then pull the rad out and flush it to see what sort of muck comes out of it

while you are at it, change the sender as they tend to have a habit of being fucked once they've gone beyond a certain heat range

did you do a head gasket sniff test?

Ginge !

id say thermostat first then go from there

h/g gasket test a quick way is get a MOT garage to wave the lambda sensor over the headertank and see if the reading goes higher as thats what the techs at ford do

rsnissan

iTrader: (9)

no expansion tank/header on the datsun. pressurised rad. the bottle is just an overflow bottle that will let water out every now and again

p.s its air locked just run the car for 20 or so minutes with the rad cap off topping the rad everynow and again. you can undo a bolt near the thermostat to blead the system (think there is a small yellow square sticker from memory).

run like this till the fans kick in and out a few times, check all hoses are hot.

Job done

p.p.s dont forget to put the rad cap back on

Charlie Chalk

iTrader: (1)

*UPDATE*

Right the cars running, all the hoses are hot... waters bubbling and temp gauge is at half way

the rad is fairly warm all over bar the top right hand corner Theres no hose going into that part of the radiator so Im guessing its ok?


When I changed the water pump the other day, no shit came pout the Radiator


There is a bleed nipple, So once Im done running this and made sure the waters full, Do I just undo nipple

If yes, how long for, and what should happen

I didnt do this the other day, my mate did and I didnt watch


Thanks

Charlie Chalk

iTrader: (1)

Just been for a drive... temp went up again

Gonna let it cool down and take stat out and test it

Butch.

iTrader: (1)

Aint you took that thermostat out yet that should be your first job

Charlie Chalk

iTrader: (1)

No.. wanted to make sure it wasnt an airlock again

Butch.

iTrader: (1)

get your spanners out the radders

Charlie Chalk

iTrader: (1)

Gonna have a wank and a cuppa while it cools down first

AndyRST

tie a bit of string on the stat and dunk it in a saucepan of boiling water, you should see it open. I would also try driving the car without the stat and see if it does it still.

Goodluck with it m8

Charlie Chalk

iTrader: (1)

Drove the car with the stat out, and it still went up...


I touched the rad in the top left corner (passenger side) and it seems to be cold...


There is a water pipe on the bottom of that half, and the rad is hot on the bottom and all over else where...


Fucked rad?

Ginge !

check waterpump again first,maybe thats the issue ???

what made you think it failed before,,,,, what was the problem with the car when it started ???

rad is a costly job if that aint it

take rad out and flush it, then take it to a place that recores them to test it

theres a place on my road if you dont know anywhere,, they can presure test ect and see before buying one

Charlie Chalk

iTrader: (1)

The water pissing out of the water pump kinda gave it away

Butch.

iTrader: (1)

you and cars dont mix radders

rssteve

change the rad ffs